Do a google search on "Irrigation Scheduling and Potato Development" ... I couldn't copy a url ... here are a few snips: === Knowing the soil texture of the field is imperative. Potatoes grown on sandy soil will require more frequent doses of water than those grown on heavier soils. Too little moisture during the growing season can result in reduced yields and small, misshapen tubers. Too much moisture could lead to erosion, increased disease susceptibility and leaching of fertilizer. Uneven moisture can result in tubers with many knobs or hollow centres. Potato development is typically divided into five growth stages. Understanding the crop requirements at the different growth stages is important in order to maximize the yield and quality of marketable potatoes. Stage 1 Â Planting to emergence During this stage, plants begin to emerge from the seed piece. Root formation begins, although the new plant receives nourishment from the seed piece. Irrigation is usually not necessary at this time, and in fact could be harmful if the water source is too cold. This stage lasts from 20 to 35 days depending on soil temperature, variety and cultural practices. Stage 2 Â Emergence to tuber initiation Early vegetative growth occurs at this stage. Stolons, or underground stems, begin to develop. Available soil water (ASW) is being used by the plant to support the rapid growth. Additional moisture may be lost at this stage because this is the period during which the hilling operation is done. Stage 3 Â Tuberization Small tubers begin to form at the end of the stolons. Adequate moisture at this stage is necessary to encourage a large number of tubers to set. It also helps to control the incidence of common scab on the potatoes. Stage 4 Â Bulking At this stage, tubers enlarge very rapidly. Leaf area is also at a maximum resulting in maximum evapo-transpiration or water use. Growth and water use begin to slow down at the end of the bulking period. Stage 5 - Maturity The plants begin to lose leaves; photosynthesis slows. Tuber growth also slows and the skin begins to set. Excessive water at this time could cause the lenticels or pores on the potato to enlarge, providing a pathway for bacterial and fungal diseases such as pink rot or late blight to enter the tuber. Irrigating a few days before harvest, however, can help prevent bruising of potatoes by ensuring that sufficient volumes of soil are carried up the harvester chain, cushioning the potatoes.

Roots showing through the holes at the bottom? crowns crowding the edge of the pots? ??? Well, yes Susan, those are definite signs they've outgrown their pots. I grow most of my hostas in pots and find myself up-potting from one to a two gallon pot once I see more than five or six shoots/divisions in the one gallon pot. This allows to roots sufficient room and gives you the opportunity to put the plant into a fresh batch of planting mix, a critical consideration when growing in pots if you want the plants to come anywhere near their genetic potential sizewise. If the roots are too crowded it'll stunt the size of the plant, there will be plenty of shoots, but the leaves will be small. Pieter

Hey nullzero, my yellow DF cutting is in a pot along with a Halley's Comet and Frankie's red cutting. They have been growing in the pot for about 18 months and there are tons of weeds growing in the pot also. The Halley's Comet and Frankies Red are growing fine (all things considered) and the yellow is the only one not doing so well. They are in full sun and my Frankie's Red and Yellow DF were the only DF varieties I have that didn't burn during the hot spell we had about 2 weeks ago. Frankies Red is supposed to be a hybrid between a Yellow DF and a Red fleshed DF variety, that may explain why it may have a higher tolerance for strong direct light. Everything I've read says that Yellow DF likes strong direct sunlight but the small portion of my Yellow DF that is partially shaded is the only area that is green (instead of yellowing) and the shaded area is actually sprouting a very healthy green new branch! When the new branch grows larger, I will re-plant it in a new pot and grow it in a shaded area. Simon

Just another comment on computer use and glasses. If you wear bifocals or progressives, it's important to buy computer glasses. If you don't, and use your regular progressives to work at the computer, you will be holding your neck at an unnatural angle, and there is research that shows that can cause permanent damage to the neck over time. For the progressive wearer, computer glasses would be designed so that the bottom of the glasses are for close work, and the upper part is formulated for computer screen distance. The brand Compuvue makes lenses that are just amazing--NO side distortion (like you get with regular progressives). Luckily, my dd is an optician and keeps me both informed and supplied with the best eyecare solutions. It's really important, though, that if you do a lot of computer work, that you discuss your corrections with your opthalmologist or qualified optician (not all opticians are licensed, in all states) and get the proper correction for your needs. One pair of glasses may not be enough to handle all your activities properly. And considering the cost of medical treatment, to me it IS a money-saving tip to have the best eye correction possible.