How to Install Laminate if Shoe Mould is Painted on?
springlering
8 years ago
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Taylor's Cabinets & Interiors
8 years agoPrecision Carpentry
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Is shoe moulding required/desired?
Comments (18)Thank you all for you input. It sounds like this is MOSTLY a personal preference, but here is my follow up question. My GC is advocating the shoe moulding for the following reason. Our site finished hardwood floors were installed and then the base boards installed over them. Right now, the base boards look wonderful with no gaps between the base board and floor. However, our GC says that in the future, when we sand down and refinished the floors, there will be a gap which will become more pronounced each time the floor is refinished. The advantage to having the shoe moulding is it can be removed, the floors sanded and refinished and then the shoe moulding is put back on, but set a little lower. I suppose the shoe moulding could be added at a later date if the floors are refinished, but for those of you who have site finished hardwoods and no shoe moulding, how do you plan to handle this? TIA again for your input! Jaymie...See MoreTransition and shoe moulding question
Comments (2)You could either meet the stained shoe with the painted at the miter at the right hand corner (in the pic.) then cut the t-mold to fit and butt it to the shoemold (easy option) or you could install the t-mold all the way to the baseboard and put a mitered return on the end of each type of shoemold and end them at the t-mold. Or you could paint all the Oak shoemold white....See Moreshoe moulding
Comments (3)You fit the baseboard at the floor/baseboard juncture so that the baseboard follows the contour of the floor resulting in no gaps at the floor/baseboard juncture. This is commonly known as 'scribing' because of the technique used to mark the baseboard fot cutting. Google 'scribing' and you will find a description of how carpenters scribe and what tools they employ. Also, post in the woodworking forum and someone may describe the process in detail (pun intended)....See MoreHow is your shoe moulding installed?
Comments (4)Hi, There are only a few times when it would be appropriate to run the shoe into the area of the casing. In a small number of trim jobs, the casing will be the exact same thickness of the baseboard, and this casing will have a portion of square (plain) profile at its edge before the molded portion begins. In that situation, it's acceptable to overlap the shoe onto the flat portion of the casing. This is encountered in old houses. When there is a deep backband molding atop the casing and running to the flooring so as to make a natural stop to the baseboards (and the shoe) it would be prudent to stop the shoe into it, rater than making lots of little miters to run around it. Same goes for thick plinth blocks. If the amount that the plinth block sticks out beyond the shoe is less than 1/2", you need to "ease" back that portion of the shoe that projects clear of the plinth so as to give a neat appearance with no sharp transitions. The basic way to and a butt cut on shoe, where the entire end is seen, is to leave a 1/8" flat of shoe and miter the rest at 40*, not bringing the shoe to a complete point. The ends of the shoe, if you have the ogee shoe or if the work is very fancy, would be to form molded returns on all ends; instead of easing with a 40* cut, the profile is repeated to resemble a mitered return where the molding turns back into the wall. This is done by carving the shape into the end grain, not by glueing in a tiny sliver of molding.It must be "worked in the solid" as they used to say. If you have a column base in the middle of the floor, let need dictate using shoe. Only if the joint or scribe of the flooring up to this object is wanting should you lay shoe mold there. More than you wanted to know, I'm sure. Casey...See Moregregmills_gw
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