Need advice for anchoring a gazebo to pavers with a concrete base
ssahley
8 years ago
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szut (Zone 6 - MA)
8 years agoszut (Zone 6 - MA)
8 years agoRelated Discussions
What is a good way to anchor/secure a pergola to a paver patio?
Comments (3)Since there is minimal disturbance of paving units and sub-grade, the steel rod approach your link described, is an easy method for securing the pergola posts to an existing paved surface. However, if a typical system of horizontal beams and stringers are used, and support posts are sized sufficiently, a 12' x 12' pergola is on the large side and quite heavy. I personally don't think the 3" bluestone is capable of supporting that dead-load - without potential failure. Cracking could occur and without diagonal bracing at the beam to post connections, there may not be enough lateral resistance to prevent the whole freestanding structure from racking. Consider setting concrete footings such as tsmith recommends. I would however, approach it in a different way. Remove the paving stones at each proposed post location to provide enough clearance for digging holes deep enough to go below the frost line of your area. Choose a method of digging, either with a manual post-hole digger, or a rented, gas-engine post hole auger. I imagine your posts will be at least 6 x 6s - perhaps even 8 x 8s. If you elect to use posts embedded directly into concrete for maximum stability - accept the fact that regardless of using PT pine or cedar, the posts will eventually rot - even with a canted concrete top for water drainage. Consider this method as an alternate: Dig a hole at least 10" in diameter, and set each post over a compacted bed of gravel or crushed stone below frost. The use of compacted crushed stone poured into the spaces around each post, allows ground water to be irrigated down past the posts before it has a chance to rot the wood. Add the stone in 6" lifts, compacting each layer with a tamping post. Fill the holes up to the sand base, cut each paver and reset as necessary. Another proven technique is to cast round galv. steel fence posts, or flat steel plates into each concrete footing, with at least 18" extending above finish grade level. The round posts would extend into holes drilled into each post bottom - then secured by through-bolts, countersunk and plugged. Flat plates would equal the width of each post, with plate thickness determined to oppose bending resistance (3/8" to 1/2" might be sufficient). The plate ends extending from the concrete footing would fit into slots cut into each post bottom, then through-bolted such as with the round post method. This sounds like a fun project and will enhance the great job you've already completely on the patio. But in my opinion, there is no easy way out for securing the pergola, for ensuring the longevity of the structure and the safety of your family and guests who may enjoy it....See MoreAdvice needed for sloping paver patio properly
Comments (4)Grade away from a building for a paver patio will be somewhat less of an issue because of drainage afforded by the space between pavers and the base upon which they rest. Your 1/10" per foot grade is probably safe though I used 1/8" per foot because my level gave that indication. Remove all of the top soil and sufficient sub soil to allow for the base. Base requirement is dependent upon your frost zone and the weight to be set atop. I have a minimum of 5" base plus an inch of sand but below a hot tub I have 10" of base. Paver base need not be different only because it's further from your house. Now, here is my advise for new construction - WAIT, maybe 3 years. Why, because the foundation backfill needs time to settle completely. Most likely your existing slab is going to shift (unless footings were poured below) during this time so whatever pavers placed alongside will misalign in a season. Yes, a photo would be helpful, many are posted. And, do you mean 2,000 sq. ft of pavers, not 200? Personally if you're going that large, why save the existing 100 ft of concrete? I'm linking our patio. When I built it in 1998 (1995 home construction) I set stakes and provided a crowned grade from the house and to both edges. Because I needed a retaining wall, I installed French drains below the gravel,to carry away any water and they have worked great. Hope this helps. Good luck. Here is a link that might be useful: Patio...See MoreConcrete slab paver base construction help
Comments (5)You'll want to rent a plate compactor for the base. A hand tamper is fine for tight corners and places where the compactor can't go but unless you're a World's Strongest Man champion you'll have a hard time getting great compaction on that big a walk. Especially using bigger slabs, you don't want voids showing up underneath them or having them move. No need to compact your bedding layer. You want it loose to help level each slab with its neighbors. Just give them a whack with a rubber mallet. I'd run the 3/4 minus 12" wider than the finished walk on both sides, compact it, and spike in paver edge restraint. By creating a fixed edge that the pavers can't move beyond, you make it a little less likely that the pavers will shift within the walk....See MoreConcrete patio sinking, NEED advice on remedy
Comments (13)They are manufactured blocks/tiles, not poured in place. You might call them paving blocks or patio tiles. They look quite worn & weathered, meaning that it might not make sense to spend money on resetting them, only to have an old, near-the-end-of-its-life patio when you're finished. It would make more sense to reset them as a DIY project, since it wouldn't cost much. Or, to suffer along with what you have while saving money for a new patio. The picture does not show much of the surroundings, but the yard looks quite flat, which would make it difficult to capture water at the patio edge and then run it underground by gravity to a different location. A stop-gap measure could be to install an underground cavity -- a literal French drain -- but that's an iffy proposition (and a fair amount of work.) You don't have any way of measuring the actual volume of storm water that would come to the outer edge of the patio. If the underground cavity was a little shy of handling the capacity, the patio would still flood. It would drain away and dry up quicker, but that might not be enough to justify the effort. What it would cost to have it reset by professionals would vary, depending on your location and its market for this type work....See Moressahley
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoszut (Zone 6 - MA)
8 years agossahley
8 years agotj_shopper Eng
2 years ago3onthetree
2 years agotj_shopper Eng
2 years agoEdward Mosher
2 years agotj_shopper Eng
2 years ago
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