Who told you they shouldn't be in direct sun? They LOVE the sun! As long as there's also some humidity available. They do like to grow in a pot that looks smaller than you'd normally think, so don't go overboard, but you should first (regardless of anything else) take it out of the pot and check for routbound-ness, and if it's bad, then trim off 1/4-1/3 of existing roots and repot into a fast draining gritty soil mix (no peat!). Now if you want it to grow bigger, don't trim the roots, but just loosen them enough to slightly spread the ball without undoing it all. Size of pot can certainly be somewhat wider to accommodate new aerial root spread, but how deep it is will be up to you. What do you mean "the greater the ... leaves'? And BTW, basic information on bonsai doesn't mean much, as trees vary tremendously in their needs. I can't look at your picture because when I click on the link a bunch of thumbnails come up with lots of plants (and parts of same) but no I.D., just stuff underneath the pix - one plain one of which would definitely help here, with some little thing next to it for relative size gauging.

Thanks again for all the advice. I am now planning to get some cardboard and some imported wood chips. I will lay these down in a section of the garden where I intend to put the fruit and vegetable plants. For the rest of the garden I want it to look as natural as possible so I will leave it as it is and only get rid of the Spurge. I have been researching about the Spurge and I believe the best way to get rid of it is also to deprive it of sun light so I intend to use the cardboard on it as well. I will probably through some lawn seeds on top after it has decomposed... Any recommendation on beginner plants to grow that's easy?

I modified a plastic cup and filled it with some soil and repotted them, just in case they're something interesting. I was surprised to find out how long their roots were. I guess we'll find out what they are, soon enough!

The roots go a lot further down than an inch, and it doesn't look like that pop bottle has any drainage holes. I still suspect they are too wet most of the time, and probably are not getting enough sun as another poster noted. Lavender is originally from the Mediterranean region, along the coast. Yes, they manage to grow a lot of lavender in England - it is still a Mediterranean plant, however, that grows best in dry, chalky, poor soils. I think the Brits just tend to be better gardeners on average than the average 'merican, LOL! Plus they have lots of chalky coastline ... think the White Cliffs of Dover ... Lavender does NOT do well in soil that is moist all the time. If they are doing "better" since you started daily watering, I shudder to think how they were doing before, because those plants are not doing anything like "well", especially given that you started those plants way back in the spring. Here's a picture of a potted lavender that is doing well: Potted lavender advice Lavender needs 8 hours of sun a day, at least. Full sun in the garden is what they are talking about there. I don't think your plants are getting near that on your balcony. It will only be worse sitting near the window there in your kitchen (or where ever you plan to put them over winter). I understand that you are in an apartment and have VERY limited access to light and space for growing plants. Lavender is a very challenging plant (so is rosemary) for growing indoors. I've never had any luck growing either plant indoors myself. I'm not saying it can't be done; but it is a challenge. Your setup is not adequate to the task at this time. You're not getting nearly enough light; the soil mix in your pop bottles looks too heavy (lavender does better in a soil-less mix, in fact I think potted lavender may be a prime candidate for some version of Al's gritty mix). There are no drainage holes that I can see in that pop bottle and you are overwatering if the soil is never allowed to dry out. Lavender also like an alkaline soil. Adding some lime could help. ESPECIALLY if there is any peat moss at all in your soil mix, or if you are using pine fines as mulch or a soil amendment. So - alkaline soil, allow the soil to dry between waterings - not totally since these are first year plants but it shouldn't be wet or even damp all the time; and it loves the heat but dislikes humidity (hence it does pretty durn well in our dry near-desert conditions in N. Nevada). However at this point in time I hold out little hope for the survival of your plants over the winter, given their stunted condition now. I'm not trying to be discouraging; go ahead and try, you've come this far with them. But you need to repot them in a soil-less mix more suited to the plant and be prepared to supply extra heat and light, else they will not survive. Here is a discussion and fairly clear description of how to make Al's gritty mix. Personally I have found ALL the ingredients difficult to impossible to find. Turface, in particular, I have never been able to lay hands on - and though it is the virtually same stuff as certain types of cat litter or adsorbent, it isn't ALWAYS the same stuff. For instance, Napa Floor Dry has been touted as a replacement - but there are TWO KINDS and only one of them is suitable for this purpose. And I'm too tired to go dig up the links that tell you which is which. Also, having to screen and discard large portions of your ingredient isn't exactly lending itself to being affordable - let alone easy. That said - for this particular instance, I think gritty mix is your best bet - if you can only find the ingredients and get them properly screened and mixed.