Thanks for your comment Magpiepix! The nursery only recommended to amend the soil and try to plant it while it was still cool. The nursery isn't a big box store, but they don't specialize in maples and aren't terribly knowledgeable. Our soil is weird, honestly. This area has disgusting heavy clay soil, however, when our subdivision was built, they trucked in field\top soil so the top 2 feet of our soil is field soil and under that is clay. We plan to dig a 9 foot diameter hole and amend our field soil with firmulch garden soil conditioner. The nursery recommened a 50/50 mix. I believe the tree would be better off in the ground, but is this the right time to take that chance? If we leave it in the box, how long can it survive with burlap? My guess is that it was grown in clay as they all seem to be in this area. Any advice is appreciated though :)

You could keep it in the box and wait until fall - that's exactly what the nursery would be doing if you hadn't purchased it. But that does involve a much higher degree of attention than if it were in the ground. So it is really your choice.

What you don't want to do is amend your soil before planting. This has been documented to be detrimental to the proper establishment of trees for a variety of reasons but old habits die hard and many nurseries and other sources still promote this outdated practice. Reveiw some of the tree planting threads on the Trees forum for confirmation if you like.

Dig your wide planting hole but slightly less deep than the depth of the rootball. Making sure that the rootball is fully hydrated before you place it, site the tree so that the top of the rootball is slightly above grade. Backfill only with the soil removed from the hole just up to the shoulder of the rootball, not over the top. Then use your amendments as a mulch around the planting area. Then water. Slow watering is best, so that the water gradually penetrates down through the soil profile to the full depth of the rootball. I'd suggest using a soaker hose or a drip system. And keep the soil consistently moist, not wet. The mulch will help with that.

I wholeheartedly agree with gardengal's suggestions for planting-- don't dig a hole and fill it up with "good" soil. What you'll end up doing is creating a sink in the clay where water sits and festers. Gardengal's plan for planting will be the healthiest method for your tree. Happy planting!

I've planted a lot of plants, including maples, in August, in the 100 degree Arkansas heat. It's probably not best, but I always made sure to plant right, and made sure to keep them properly watered. I would follow Gardengal's suggestions, and just make sure to give the plant plenty of attention through this Fall. That's a beautiful tree!

Hmmm...you all have definitely given me something to think about these past few days. We ultimately decided that we're going to take the chance to plant it though and my hubby is almost done with the hole. I know that fall, when it is dormant would be a better time, however, the place that it's in now will ultimately fry it. When we plant it, it will have a better chance of making it through our unbearably hot summers. How I envy those in the cooler zones with an occasional high of 85 where these gorgeous trees can be planted proudly in the middle of the lawn instead of almost hidden to protect it.

I have heard that the soil shouldn't be amended unless the tree is planted in full clay because it will;

1. Cause a bathtub effect and the water won't drain and

2. The roots won't want to grow into the icky natural soil, but will instead only stay where the good soil is.

We unfortunately don't get enough rain to have to worry about number 1. California has been in a state of conservation since I was a kid. These last few years, we've had a drought so the tree will mostly only get what we give it. Number 2 is the stickler for me. The logic behind not amending the soil makes sense to me. Not to mention, the trees were grown in clay, hence the clay rootball. But the nurturing side of me just wants to help the tree out. Not to mention, the largest Japanese Maple nursery in CA recommened amending it with one bag in the initial planting process to encourage root growth. I've looked at a few of the larger nurseries mentioned on this forum and they recommend some form of amending as well. So I'm torn. It's the same issue I have with removing the burlap. Half of the people I talk to say to remove it because in order for it to breakdown, you need oxygen and water. There won't be enough oxygen once the tree is planted so leaving it can stunt root development. You also want to look at the roots to make sure they're all herby. However, I've had several people tell me to leave the burlap on so not all of the roots get disturbed. When we get the tree out of the box, we'll make the determination then. There are quite a few fine feeder looking roots growing over the burlap and I'd hate to lose them.

I really appreciate all of the advice you all have given me. Thanks so much!!!

Please ignore what any nurseries may tell you about amending the soil. Despite the fact that they sell plants, nurseries are not necessarily a good source of the best, most accurate and most current horticultural information. It doesn't make any difference what kind of soil you have, it is still not advised to amend any planting hole for a variety of reasons, including soil interface issues (how water moves through the soil profile and with changes in soil texture) and to encourage the roots to move out rapidly into the indigenous soil. If you want confirmation of this, check with any extension service website (.edu) - they are the agencies that dispense up-to-date horticultural information, not a retail nursery, which is in the business to make money, including the selling of unnecessary soil amendments. And drought conditions or not, the bathtub effect can still be present with ordinary irrigation. You will have to water this tree deeply and routinely for several growing seasons to get it properly established and this poor drainage situation can occur at any time with this practice.

These are not children to be babied. You simply want to provide the best conditions to encourage and hasten establishment and that has been proven to occur without amending. Any amendments you had contemplated adding to the planting hole or soil can be/should be used as a mulch or top dressing. It will still supply the same benefits as if it were mixed into the soil but without any of the detrimental side effects.

If feeder roots are growing through the burlap when you go to plant it, leave the burlap intact, just removing any ties or fasteners and cutting away any burlap that surrounds the trunk and covers the top of the root ball. B&B trees have up to 85% of their root system compromised with their harvesting so you want to carefully avoid damaging any regrowth that may be present. Because burlap is a loosely woven fabric that will disintegrate in time, there is no issue of oxygen deprivation and as a natural fiber material, burlap will breakdown/decompose just as readily as any other organic material.

You are free to accepted this information or not, but I will let you know that it comes from a degreed professional horticulturist with 30 years of experience of consulting, advising and educating gardeners on how to succeed with their gardens. Believe it or not, people pay me to give them the exact same advice you've just received for free :-)

Gardengal - what you say makes complete sense and I'm going to ignore my urge to baby this beauty. I will follow what you said to the T. I really appreciate all of your help. Thanks again for taking the time to help me I'll post a picture when she's in the ground.

It is funny. It seems to be the consensus on here to NOT amend any soil... But you can literally go to any garden center or nursery, and they'll tell you to amend it. It's odd.

I thought Gardengal explained all that.
mike

She did. Just amazing literally every nursery has it wrong, that's all.