This is a nice initial soil test. There's some work to be done, but the starting point on this soil is pretty good.

EC 6.2: Sandy soil, with a little silt. Plan on testing this soil yearly as it'll shift fast.

OM 2.1%: At the lower border of Fair, starting to trend toward Poor. With your lower EC, I'd always feed organically, always mulch mow, mow in all your fall leaves, steal your neighbors' leaves in fall, and so on. While not an emergency or anything, bringing this up will positively impact your lawn quality, raise your EC a little bit, and vastly improve water retention in your soil.

pH 7.0: A little high due to excess magnesium in the soil.

Sulfur 13: Normal, with tons of margin to play with if I need it. I'll use a little of the margin, but not very much as your soil won't require that much playing.

Phosphorus 101: Low but not extreme, this is still negatively impacting your lawn quality. Target in this case will be around 220. I recommended starter fertilizer below. Just choose the cheapest as they'll all target around 1 pound of phosphorus per thousand square feet.

Calcium 65.7%: Exactly optimal. The soil shows a tiny deficit of 48 pounds per acre (about 1 pound per thousand) but we can ignore it this year. That's too small to bother with and difficult to correct without going over the top. Given your pH, we definitely don't want to do that.

Magnesium 25.0%: Very high, which will tend to give you a tight, impenetrable soil. Avoid all magnesium sources, including dolomitic limestone and Epsom salt. Let's give this a year to leach out normally, by which time you'll probably need calcium anyway--and we can use one step to add a little Ca while abolishing a touch of Mg at that point if needed.

Potassium 2.2%: Although OK by the percentage, the numbers are low. Plus I'm a fan of moving K to the upper part of the recommended percentages or even a little beyond. It improves heat and cold resistance, disease resistance, and insect resistance. Most landscape and garden stores will order potassium sulfate (sulfate of potash) for you, or you can get it online. Recommendations below.

Minor Elements: Boron is low and I discuss that next. Except for iron, all others are OK. Iron is below boron.

Boron 0.38: Low. Boron is used in photosynthesis and cell differentiation, so it's kind of important. We use 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source, which is available at your local grocery store in the laundry section, plus Milorganite as a carrier. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 10 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax.

Iron 77: Low. Not deficient, but not going to give you the best color or best photosynthesis in the lawn. Any time you like, apply Milorganite to slowly raise the iron levels in the soil and organic matter levels in the lawn. The boron listed above only goes once, on July 1. The rest of the Milo applications should be with nothing added.

Recommendations:

Memorial Day Weekend: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate.

June 15: Apply 2 pounds per thousand square feet of potassium sulfate.

July 1: Apply 4 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax in Milorganite.

Labor Day: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate.

September 15: Apply 2 pounds per thousand square feet of potassium sulfate.

October 1: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate.

Too Late.

Sorry for the slow response, I'm wheel barrowing the last bit of dirt around the yard to flower beds left over from when we had a pool put in. Thanks for the responses morpheuspa and dchall. Thanks for the well laid out plan morpheuspa. Dchall I would describe my soil as more sandy, hardly any clay, very easy to dig when damp, hard as concrete when dry. Morph, I do mulch mow but only have one elm tree, the neighbor did have a couple maples but she just recently took them down so mowing leaves in wont be much this year. So what is a good option for OM? Do I continue to use organic fertilizer, soy bean meal, etc.... Or I do have a local farmer that has pigs and cows, I'm sure they'd fill my truck up with manure (not sure how to spread it around evenly), or just go and buy the bagged manure at the local box store?

Use the organic fertilizers (in addition to the recommended starter, they won't interact at all), and mow whatever leaves you can get from your elm.

Forget the manure. It's too hot, will burn the lawn with excess nitrogen, and it's heavy and hard to apply. The stuff, even fully composted, just isn't worth the bother in this case. As I mentioned, you're OK on organic matter, I'd just like to see it come up.

Continuing to mulch mow will certainly help, and as the soil adjustments hit you're going to have a lot more mass to mulch mow into the soil!

What about the RTF. Is it spreading to fill thin areas as advertised? Or is it more like a bunch grass that just stays put?

Sorry dchall I missed that question in your initial response. I can't give you a good response for your question. The RTF had germinated really well so I never had any thin areas. I don't have pets and my boys are too old to play out in the yard with dad anymore so no wore out spots either. My opinion of the RTF is, it germinated faster and probably a higher percentage then the KBG. Last summer the RTF didn't stand up to the heat as well as the KBG, I needed to water the RTF a little more often. The KGB is a year more established then the RTF so maybe that made a difference last summer. We'll see how it stands up this summer.