Welcome Emily and Hello John! Emily, first and utmost, where do you live? When can you put your tree outdoors? That tree is small enough to wipe every leaf off with warm milk and water often. If it can't be oudoors for a while, I would watch your watering closly as John says. I must say it looks like it is in a great mix. Is that the 5.1.1 mix many here use? Mostly bark? Very porous? That was a great catch on your part, finding the mites. Most would not be aware of this factor so my hats off to you for controlling it. I would make sure it gets lots of sunlight at this point. even if it should drop all the leaves, at least the roots will stay strong and still push new growth accustomed to new light levels. I have many times actually plucked every leaf off just to have the tree come back bushier than ever. They are more resilient than one might think. I would of held back on fertilizing after an attack as so, because you don't want to encourage new growth in your warm , dry conditions unless you can figure a way to discourage mites from coming back to eat the fresh foiliage about to grow with 'constant' air movement aimed to blow towards under the leaves. Never shut your fan off and see if you can use a small table one with low speed. If I have had a mite infestation,I would actually snip of all the new growth until I can almost put them outside to be on the safe side from stragglers then treat and treat all summer so I don't bring them in the following fall. I always make sure the environment for mines are just right to reduce mites infestation possibilities. For instance. >If they are indoors, in my house, in a sunny window, I like to keep the room very cool with fans and moisture in which mites or any pests detest. >For those in the greenhouse, I fertilize regularly for new 'strong' growth along with moist air, and air that is constanly being moved my fans. I am not worried about spindly growth in this case or tender desirable leaves because they are getting all day sun and grow tougher. In there, I deliberately let temps drop to the 50's at night though again which mites despise. >At work, where conditions are very dry, I constantly wipe the leaves off those with warm milk and water, and shower them once in a while to keep the leaves clean. Keeping your tree in a well draining mix, in a full sunny south facing window, leaves clean, fertilizing very lightly to discouarge fresh tender foliage until you are ceratin you have no mites, will help your tree make a full recovery in time for outdoors. Please, don't fret if those leaves fall off, since many citrus shed leaves anyway for various reasons. As long as you are not loosing branches due to root issues caused by over or under watering or a poor soil mixture, it will come back strong once it sees the great outdoors if not sooner:-) Mike

Thanks Poncirusguy! I'm new to the forum and still learning. Johnmerr, I do have a 10x and 20x loupe. I have been over almost every leaf and stem on this tree and can't find any mites or webs. To be safe, I've done a Neem oil/rosemary oil/Protek spray treatment every three days for 2+ weeks. I've moved it outside, and tried hosing it down, and it just seems to be getting worse. :( In my very VERY humble opinion (I'm definitely not an expert), it doesn't look like mite damage when the sun isn't shining behind it. The transparent spots have a yellowish appearance, and there isn't the "flattened" dry look of sucked-out mesophyll. The whole leaf is thick and glossy- yellow spots and all. It doesn't seem to be happening on any of the new growth, just the older, dark green leaves. I'm starting to notice stress drop on the more heavily spotted leaves. Once the spotting reaches the base of the leaves, they're detaching at the base of the leaf, leaving the petiole attached to the branch. :( By that time, the leaf usually looks largely yellowish through the midrib toward the base, with smaller mottled darker green spots throughout the yellow. I am definitely not ruling out spider mites, but I'm kind of at my wits end. If it is spider mites, then the more organic treatments aren't working, what to try next? My husband has a pesticide applicators license, if it comes to that. Desperate times call for desperate measures, haha. :) Could it be oedema or a fungal infection? Just brainstorming and wondering what to rule out before I start spraying the crap out of it with stronger stuff. Thanks for your time and info!

Alright guys, time to mix it up. Literally :) My trees are doing good right now, Forecast for this week is thunderstorms today and tomorrow, then hot and sunny for the rest of the week... Soooo, here we go. This is what I have to work with. I need help figuring the proportions. 1. Farfard Custom Mix. It's quite a bit finer than the 52 they were supposed to send, but oh well, what's done is done and this is what I have. To help with the coarseness, I bought coarse perlite: and finally, bark: So, there you are, Meyer lemon gurus. How much of what would you add to that Farfard mix? As always, thanks for the help and guidance :) Atheen

Those trees look pretty healthy to me. Such small trees will drop lots of fruit and that is a good thing. You want them to grow instead of spending their energy producing fruit. I am not sure about the sticky substance. Hopefully someone here can chime in.