Welcome Emily and Hello John! Emily, first and utmost, where do you live? When can you put your tree outdoors? That tree is small enough to wipe every leaf off with warm milk and water often. If it can't be oudoors for a while, I would watch your watering closly as John says. I must say it looks like it is in a great mix. Is that the 5.1.1 mix many here use? Mostly bark? Very porous? That was a great catch on your part, finding the mites. Most would not be aware of this factor so my hats off to you for controlling it. I would make sure it gets lots of sunlight at this point. even if it should drop all the leaves, at least the roots will stay strong and still push new growth accustomed to new light levels. I have many times actually plucked every leaf off just to have the tree come back bushier than ever. They are more resilient than one might think. I would of held back on fertilizing after an attack as so, because you don't want to encourage new growth in your warm , dry conditions unless you can figure a way to discourage mites from coming back to eat the fresh foiliage about to grow with 'constant' air movement aimed to blow towards under the leaves. Never shut your fan off and see if you can use a small table one with low speed. If I have had a mite infestation,I would actually snip of all the new growth until I can almost put them outside to be on the safe side from stragglers then treat and treat all summer so I don't bring them in the following fall. I always make sure the environment for mines are just right to reduce mites infestation possibilities. For instance. >If they are indoors, in my house, in a sunny window, I like to keep the room very cool with fans and moisture in which mites or any pests detest. >For those in the greenhouse, I fertilize regularly for new 'strong' growth along with moist air, and air that is constanly being moved my fans. I am not worried about spindly growth in this case or tender desirable leaves because they are getting all day sun and grow tougher. In there, I deliberately let temps drop to the 50's at night though again which mites despise. >At work, where conditions are very dry, I constantly wipe the leaves off those with warm milk and water, and shower them once in a while to keep the leaves clean. Keeping your tree in a well draining mix, in a full sunny south facing window, leaves clean, fertilizing very lightly to discouarge fresh tender foliage until you are ceratin you have no mites, will help your tree make a full recovery in time for outdoors. Please, don't fret if those leaves fall off, since many citrus shed leaves anyway for various reasons. As long as you are not loosing branches due to root issues caused by over or under watering or a poor soil mixture, it will come back strong once it sees the great outdoors if not sooner:-) Mike

Here's what I've done with a meyer lemon plant before. But I would wait to hear someone else say this is a good idea before you should try this, maybe I got lucky. I thought mine was about dead and I just figured what do I have to lose. I got rid of all the old soil. Pruned the roots lightly. Cut off about 2 inches off the end of each growing point then put it in some fresh soil and just wet it enough to allow the soil to set up. I kept it out of light for 2 weeks then I set it out in light. After about a month I saw some new growth. Once I saw new growth I fertilized and let it grow. It's doing good now and hopefully next season I'll get some good fruiting. Last year I only had one lemon but it was large and tasted good as fresh lemonade. I have a little one on it now but I don't know it's chances since it's in the garage at nights and days that don't warm up past 50. So the lemon hasn't grown much this past month, it's about the size of an egg now.

Don and kmltx 9, sorry your questions have gone unanswered. Being at the end of a long thread it probably has not been seen by a lot of people. You might want to start a new thread with your questions. Kmltx, your tree will fruit again IF it came back above the graft. Meyer lemons are grafted onto a more hardy root stock and sometimes it is the root stock that grows if the top has died back. Perhaps you can carefully inspect it to try and see where it was grafted and determine which you have growing now, the rootstock or the Myer lemon trunk that was grafted onto it. Don, sometimes young trees or trees in pots that don't have a strong root system to support fruiting will flower nicely, but will drop young fruit. Maybe try putting it in a larger pot. And give it as much sunshine as you can. Since Myer lemon trees are subject to below freezing weather unless protected in some way that means dragging it into a warmer area when the temperature drops. Myer lemons will produce mature fruit while in a pot, but not as many as it would in the ground. Hope this little bit helps. There are some good tips on growing them in the replies contained in this thread. Google 'Growing Myer Lemon trees' and you will find more. Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Myer lemon trees ...

These tree often will send out flushes only to have them die like that before they amount to anything. Then when the time is better they will grow much better. It is hard not to find all kinds of scary deformations on my trees yet they are overall doing incredibly well. Bide your time and your tree will do OK. Steve