For many of us, this past winter our plants took a beating with the very unusual winters some of us had with warm weather followed by late freezes. They have what is more typical of drought damage but in this case was caused by the warm weather followed by late freezes. It causes Botryosphaeria dothidea which causes leaves to turn dull green and then brown and roll and droop. Cankers form on branches which may girdle the branch. This is the most common disease of rhododendrons in the landscape. A typical symptom of this fungal disease is scattered dying branches on an otherwise healthy plant. Leaves on infected stems turn brown, then droop and roll inward. These leaves often lay flat against the stem and will remain attached. The pathogen can infect all ages of stem tissue through wounds, pruning cuts, and leaf scars. Heat, drought stress, and winter injury can increase disease incidence. Cankers on branches can gradually grow through the wood until the stem becomes girdled. Diseased wood is reddish brown in appearance. Discolored wood viewed in longitudinal cross section often forms a wedge that points toward the center of the stem, and the pith may be darker brown than the surrounding wood. Sanitation and applying a fungicide such as metalaxyl (Subdue) after pruning my provide some control. Plants should be grown in partial shade, with mulch and kept well watered during dry periods. All dying branches should be promptly pruned out in dry weather and all discolored wood should be removed. Plants should also be protected from rough treatment during maintenance activities to prevent unnecessary wounds. Whether to transplant in spring or fall is always a question. Fall is normally the best time because roots on a new plant need help establishing themselves. The shallow root system can't take in all the water it may need to survive and a drought can spell disaster. Water them frequently in the morning. Mature plants are much hardier and Mother Nature seems to take good care of them under normal conditions. Care for new plants for 2-3 years to help them get established. One problem with fall transplanting is that it makes a plant more susceptible to frost heave in climates where freezing and thawing cycles are common. In that case, rhododendrons transplant best in the spring. It must be noted that maintaining the proper moisture level in the summer is very difficult after spring transplanting. Make sure you watch the plant after it was moved like you would a new plant. Its roots are compromised and it will need a reliable source of moisture. If the weather has a dry spell, make sure you water any newly planted rhododendrons, large or small.

Why a weak dose of fertilizer? Because I read on this forum about the "weekly weakly" thing. I had also already fertlized with Jobe's Organic but it is the kind you just sprinkle around the base of the tree and water in, I was afraid the tree might need something a bit more direct until that had a chance to soak in. The fertilizer i just used is 8-7-6. What formula? The fertilizer i just used is 8-7-6. When did you last fertilize? Yesterday How often do you fertilize? Haven't been since I got the tree a few months ago, just started with the Jobe's about three weeks ago, then the 8-7-6 liquid yesterday. What kind of soil is it in? gritty mix How much light does it receive? in a sunroom with S/SE exposure Could the aphids be causing this? I've been spraying with neem.

Normally figs are pruned while they are dormant. Some people do so shortly after they go dormant, and some wait until a few weeks before the plants break dormancy. Before I knew better I sometimes pruned my trees after they had budded out in the spring. They seemed to do fine in spite of this. I'm sure it did set them back a bit though, but I'm in the deep South with a pretty long growing season. Your tree will likely grow straight up this year, and it sounds like it might even produce some main crop figs. It may ripen a breba or two, but it will likely drop them. What variety is your new fig? Next year before it breaks dormancy you can prune it back to whatever height you want the branching to take place, and it should branch out just fine. You will have some nice cuttings at that point too if you want to make some new trees. Good luck. Henry

Relax! Your Mom's strategy insn't a bad one, necessaily. Potting soil holds water differently then garden soil, so there is an argument that any that are being left in pots should be in potting soil. As for the ones that go right in the ground...an argument can be made this strategy lets you untangle the roots and use soil from the spot you plant them. Make sure the ones in pots have drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. The ones that went in the ground may benefit from the rain. Lots of trees lose their leaves and look dead for a while after you plant them. Biggest mistake you made was doing this in the summer.