About the only way is to cut back the limb that is out of proportion with the rest of the plant and give the plant more sun. You had good bud set and the leaves look nice and healthy, but more sun would give you shorter more balanced growth and help it fill in. If you aren't brave enough to cut off the gangly part, then cut off the ends of the gangly part. New buds should open up on the stems of the gangly part. But more light will make it come back with much better shape. If you have to move it, they are easy to move. Just remember they have shallow roots and the root should not be disturbed any more than necessary. Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow rhododendrons and azaleas.

Well whaddya know - Kim you always find a way to bring order out of the rose chaos out there. I rarely pay as much attention as I should to common heritage among roses, but the Charles Mallerin factor would make sense in both these reds. At least they're more hardy for me than the original Charles Mallerin - I tried that one at least 3 times in successively better spots and it was an immediate death in our winters every time, as have been most direct Mallerin roses I'm afraid. At least Uncle Joe is resolutely hardy, just stubborn. Glad I put him at the back of the bed, and he rises above the teas in that area like a stern guardian of all those fussy, frothy ladies. They seem to form enough of a skirt around him, and he's MUCH too dignified at the suggestion of anything like a skirt around his solitary Cane of Dignity. Zack - I've often wondered what it would look like to have a combined planting of one-cane wonders next to each other. I'm picturing something like a bamboo forest of single rose canes with a single rose at the top of them (at least in the case of my Mr. Lincoln). It would certainly have novelty to recommend it, particularly if they all grew to the same heights, and I like the idea of letting them duke it out. In my yard, I'm not going to spend the extra garden space on multiples of roses that don't want to branch out, since I'd rather have them like pedestals among more full roses (like Uncle Joe the Overseer of Hussy Teas). Michael, I totally agree about Savoy Hotel. It's almost always cane hardy for me, but last winter I had to prune it back to about 6" on a single substantial base cane. I was worried that I might lose that last cane or that it would be a wimpy growth for a season, but not to worry. Savoy Hotel is a trooper for branching out nicely, and it's one of my top 10 steady bloomers (maybe even top 5) with gorgeous deep baby pink blooms that last extremely well. I didn't take any pictures of her this spring because I took so durned many last spring, but she was basically back to this state by late June this year even after pruning mostly to the ground. Gotta love her! Cynthia

Do you mean nicking the stalk or severing it? Most indoor plants slow down during the darker months of the winter, picking up again in the spring. Plenty of good, indirect light should trigger some new branching in your plants. You might need to snip off the growing point, however, to stimulate side shoots.

I'm using majority pine bark with some coconut coir, perlite, and compost for the mix. They are getting watered once a week because the soil is staying moist for a long time. The temperatures are in the low 90s with some sun exposure; it has been quite rainy and cloudy in North Texas recently. There is one large hole in the bottom of the pot. I am using Dr. Earth slow release fruit fertilizer and fish emulsion for fertilizer.