Messed up with my Ficus Lyrata, would love some advice
elenamar00
9 years ago
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elenamar00
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Need Urgent advice for my Ficus Lyrata! Thank you
Comments (4)I would like to add that 2 days prior to the leaves turning yellow, i sprayed them with neem oil solution mixed with water. I highly suspect that that was the root cause of this happening as it seems like only the area which was sprayed on are affected. ** Updated Edited**, the other Ficus that had been at my place for awhile was sprayed with Neem oil as well but those plants doesn't seem to be affected. I can safely assume that the Neem Oil wasn't the culprit? Just to add on some information that might be helpful: Tree was grown outdoor at the nursery and is about 9-10 feet tall, did a repotting, made sure all the old soil was replaced, no root pruning was done. I did however made a mistake of not fully rinsing the perlite thoroughly before using it. The weather here is very humid (example: a pair of soaking wet jeans would dry up in 2-3 hours of afternoon sun.) Can't seem to find any pest that could be responsible....See MoreFicus Lyrata advice. I did a 'pot-up' with gritty mix.
Comments (0)Hi all - I posted this in the wrong forum yesterday! I have a 2-3 year old ficus lyrata. The first year it was doing well but I decided to prune the roots last year and use regular potting mix. Below is the roots untrimmed. I cut off half the roots - maybe too much. 4-6 leaves shed after this but it shot up tall and produced 4 sets of leaves. It was trying to grow new leaves near the existing ones but they dried and shriveled up. I was bad in winter and didn't water it much due to fungus gnats. It then lost many more leaves due to my neglect. This year (it's spring in Sydney but cold atm) I decided to try the gritty mix (diatomite, decomposed granite which was very clay like and pine bark). I washed out all the old soil and did no root pruning because it looked ill. The roots had not grown much over the year - it actually looked like it lost roots or that it was growing gangly. There were heaps of these wire worms(?) in the old soil too. It looks like it wants to shed more leaves and I'm afraid I made it worse. Would really like some help as to what to do. Eventually I would like it to regrow leaves in the bare parts but not sure if this is possible. It has always lived outside but not in direct sun. It has a tendency to grow really tall. I would some day like to prune it so it isn't so tall and let it branch out. What can I do to make it healthy? Should I not water it too much at the moment? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Sam...See MoreAny Pruning Advice for Ficus Lyrata (Fiddle Leaf Fig)
Comments (14)Hi, Jocelyn. I'm happy to see you came back to share the progress and offer the kind words. Your tree has changed quite a bit from the first images you posted - strong work! "...... now branches A and B are growing a lot faster than the others bc they are closer to the sunlight which is a skylight. Branch D is moderate grower, E and F are toward the wall and not growing much - I think A and B may be shading them. Branch C has no leaves anymore. It used to have a couple but they fell off. That branch is totally shaded. My question is how many branches should I prune? All of them or only A and B, the big growers? Do I prune all the way down to two leaves again? Also, when I prune, is there a direction or exact placement of the cut I should do to encourage branching in one direction vs another? Just trying to figure out how to prevent shading of other branches...but maybe that’s due to the sunlight direction? And would you just cut off Branch C since there are no leaves, and if so, where do I make the cut? I'll try to go through and answer in the order your questions were asked, though I'm sure I'll get overzealous about one question and in expanding on it I'll likely answer other of your questions. I guess that's why the phrase "see above" was coined. As far as how many branches should be pruned, I think all that are growing strongly need pruning to force energy to the weaker branches. The branches growing moderately should be at least pinched (tip pruned to stop extension and force hack-budding. I would prune everything back in bounds.To establish where the boundary is, imagine a giant soup bowl, upside down, and settled over the trunk. Anything sticking out beyond that outline should be cut back to the outline, more specifically, to the leaf that is closest TO the outline w/o extending beyond it. This should produce back-budding in at least the 2 leaves closest to the cut. If the distal leaf heads in the wrong direction, which would be the direction where it will receive less light, you can cut back to the next proximal leaf (1 leaf closer to the trunk). If it was my tree, I would have no problem doing the following: Prune back to the outline as described above, then tip-prune every branch you didn't need to prune to keep it in bounds. Then, remove every leaf on the tree except the last (most distal) leaf on each branch and move the tree outdoors as soon as temps allow. Give it a week in dappled or open shade, then move it where it receives sun for a half day for a week before moving into full sun. This strategy will force lots of back-budding - just be careful not to over-water because transpirational water loss (due to reduction of the canopy) will decrease significantly. If you aren't using Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 regularly, the plant will show its appreciation if you do. If we didn't discuss that previously, we can do that. Oh - keep after the pinching, too. You can see by now, I would guess, how much difference pinching can make. Al...See MoreFiddle Leaf Fig - Oh my Ficus Lyrata! I'm confused!
Comments (2)you can use stick to straighten the stem, so it doesn't lean. top up the soil and cover the sticking roots. other than that the usual. provide as much light as you can and appropriate watering. provide artificial light for the upcoming winter moths. do that and the stem will fortify and straighten. if you want a bigger intervention you can cut the stem close to the ground and let it branch out and thicken. Your plant actually looks pretty good, not much wrong with it....See Moreelenamar00
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agoelenamar00
8 years agoelenamar00
8 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
8 years agoelenamar00
8 years agoUser
8 years agoelenamar00
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agoelenamar00
8 years agoelenamar00
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agoelenamar00
8 years agozzackey
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoelenamar00
8 years agoThomas (Zone 7b - NYC)
8 years agoelenamar00
8 years agoSugi_C (Las Vegas, NV)
8 years ago
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