Act of God? What a cop out...Tell her you're an Atheist and wan't a new tree!

The nerve of some peoples kids!

Tannenbaum mugo is rated to Zone 2. They should replace the tree!

I personally would ream the owner a new one, then find a new plant nursery in which to spend my money.

This selection is listed as hardy to -40 and is recommended for your area. It is possible the tree was not sufficiently well-established to survive a late fall cold snap unscathed, but to kill it outright is a bit extreme. And it looks like it's on its way out to me.

Unless your November cold snap was approaching the -40 level (seems unlikely), I fail to see how this is considered an act of God. With most reputable nurseries, a warranty is a warranty. We even honor our warranties for reasons like improper watering and always for any winter survival issues. In fact, that is probably the most common reason for a return and not just due to cold weather. I'd pursue this if I were you. I think they should replace your plant. As a focal point in your garden, I doubt you will be happy with the appearance of this going forward.

Lisa, I'm not trying to defend the seller, but this was no ordinary cold snap. We went from a warm mild fall with most trees still actively growing and in a 48 hour period dropped from 70 degrees to 15 below. Most of my deciduous trees hadn't lost their leaves yet when it hit. There's lots of damage on both conifer and deciduous trees.

I've heard Boulder county may have lost as much as 30% of its pines. I did a walk about this evening and just a few conifers are starting to push and the deciduous are starting to leaf out. It won't be long till we see how bad the damage really is.

I agree that June was too late in the season to plant, but I think this is more damage from the fall temp swing. April is the best time to spring plant here. Give this one a chance and prune off the clearly dead once the buds start pushing. If you can't deal with what's left you can replace it late September to early October.

I have a few things here that look worse than that, ponderosas in particular and I'm going to wait and see.

Barb

Thank you for all the responses, I really appreciate it!

Ken -- I was not aware that early June was too late to plant, but now I know! Thank you! Our house (and the tree) faces east, and has some protection from winds in the winter the way our house is laid out (and including several very established trees nearby). I agree that the tree is too close to the house. We worked with a landscape architect last year and I had my doubts about the proximity to the house. Sure enough, the tree really grew through the summer! My husband and I were outside tonight looking at where we'd put the new tree to bring it further away from the house. As far as winter watering goes, it was new to me as well. I'm originally from MI, and no one watered trees in the winter! We did amend our clay with compost. And as of tonight, I noticed many buds, so I'm interested to see what might happen. If we decide to replace it, we'll move this tree to the backyard. Do you think it could handle being transplanted?

Barb -- Thank you for your help! I'm sorry to hear about your trees. Now i'll know not to plant trees in June. Is fall generally recommended vs. planting in the spring? Also, because it's CO and it will probably happen again.. For a sudden cold snap like the one we had, would covering trees (with burlap perhaps?) have helped? I asked about this at the nursery but didn't really get a clear answer.

On the subject of replacements -- should that happen. My husband and I saw a beautiful Joe's Bess bristlecone pine. I saw that it is Z4, but I haven't been able to find much more about it. I would love to know what you guys think.

Thank you so much! :)

Lisa

Lisa,

I only have time for a quick reply this am. Spring vs fall planting is sometimes a matter of what the plant wants. For example I've heard that spring planting for oaks is preferred in Colorado. For conifers, I don't know which is better, I do both. Sometimes it's a matter of when can you get the plant you want. We're getting to the end of the planting season now. I would not move your mugo now unless you decide you can't live with how it looks. It's a very stressed plant, but grew well for you last year. I think I'd let it grow on if it will and move it in the fall.

2 trees I mail ordered and planted last fall were covered with tomato cages and wrapped in 2 layers of burlap at planting. Picea orientalis 'Skylands' and a Burke's red variegated pine. I was trying to give them some protection from the sun and wind here while they acclimated. That cold snap did them both in. There's only so much you can do when Mama Nature puts her foot down!

My only experience with Joe's Bess is having killed one two years ago, but don't let that discourage you. It's a beautiful tree!

Barb

Potted and balled and burlapped (B&B) trees and shrubs can be planted throughout the time period that ground is workable. It is simply a fallacy, albeit one that gets repeatedly mentioned here, that such nursery items can only be installed in spring and fall. That's not your issue. BTWw, aren't those buds on the branch ends? Can't quite tell from the pic, but I think I'm seeing viable buds, and if so, the plant is not only not dead, it should recover nicely.

+oM

Yes the June comment is mostly a fallacy. In fact many conifers are harvested in July in our area. You just don't want to be tearing through roots when they are pushing new growth. I've often planted in June, tore up some roots and have a plant better establish itself than one planted prior to bud break. Plus I already have a full push for that season.

It is simply a fallacy, albeit one that gets repeatedly mentioned
here, that such nursery items can only be installed in spring and fall.
That's not your issue.

==>>> there is always a best time ... and that is in dormancy ...

can you get away with other times.. sure ... but it starts with proper planting.. and proper watering ... and for once ... in this case .. you knocked waterring out of the park ...

my point ... which i failed to get to ... was that if you wait for it to leaf out.. and it doesnt.. and its getting into the heat of summer ... you can shop out a replacement... and at a good nursery ... TAG IT.. for fall planting ... let them take care of it.. during summer..

or if you mail order ... plan on fall delivery ..

all that said.. if its going to drive you insane ... just get rid of it .. and mail order that replacement ... and get it in the ground.. now.. 4 to 6 weeks before the heat of summer hits ...

ken

I don't live far from you and we had the same thing happen to us. It had been warm all the way up until the mid part of November and then bam. COLD, COLD, COLD. The cold was only around 0 and no colder than that if that. We never even came close to getting as cold the rest of the winter. Any way, I had the same problem as you did. I lost a 15 year old Chamaecyparis obtusa, some Acer palmatums, a couple of cedrus deodara I have had for over 5 years that looked wonderful, a 5 year old Metasequoia glyptostroboides 'Gold Rush', and also had some nasty burns on plants rated down to zone 2 and 3 also. I thought I was going to lose a bunch but they have all budded out an are in full bloom and almost done as most of my plants are just about in full bloom now. I don't know for sure what caused it but it wasn't that it was too cold.

Also, for me, my success rate for planting is way above to plant in the early spring to spring and even summer. I lose more plants by planting in the fall here in western Kansas.

I also have a Joe's Bess that I have had for 3 years now and it is doing great in western Kansas and I am only 4.5 hours from you. I have another Pinus longaeva 'Sherwood Compact that is doing great for 5 years now.