I'll bow to laceyvail's greater knowledge, but having spent 30 some years in Maryland where dogwood did (pre blight)/does abound, it does have the potential to reach some size. On our wooded lot, in the forest-like setting, the native dogwood tended to have tall slender trunks with a lacey canopy. However, a lovely one in the open on the front lawn was a sizeable tree, both height and width-wise. I'm just saying the potential for some growth is there and the OP's is planted close to the foundation. Daylilies (hemerocallis) are different from lilies (lilium) and without putting your nose right in the throat of a daylily - like Stella d'Oro which is yellow flowered - you'd get no hint of a scent. Some other groundcovers to consider: Phlox subulata (moss phlox) Moss pink, moss phlox or creeping phlox is a pretty common rock garden plant, but it also makes a good ground cover on poor, bare soils. It does do better when not competing with other things, though. It'll form a dense mat of foliage, which is covered in spring with masses of flowers in pink, purple, or white. Mine will often get a light reblooming throughout the summer and into the fall. Sedum (Stonecrop). Many different kinds ranging from tiny mats only a few inches high to plants 2 feet tall. They're used as ground covers, in rock gardens, on slopes, between stepping stones, etc. Most sedums are spreading or creeping plants that will root from broken branches or fallen leaves. Very easy, undemanding plants. From "How Stuff Works" - How to grow leadwort: Plant in well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Leadwort likes full sun or part shade. It will rot if the soil stays too wet, especially in winter. In most of growing Zones 5 and 6 plants die to the ground in winter. Apply a light winter mulch, and wait until growth resumes in mid-spring to cut stems back to the ground. Plant only in the spring: Leadwort needs a full growing season to get roots established. Uses for leadwort: Plant as a ground cover under shrubs and small trees and interplant spring-blooming bulbs such as crocus and daffodils." Late to come up means literally that - other plants may be well up before a "late" breaks ground in the spring. I experience that with platycodon which is the last to break ground here. Having gardened a long time, I know where the patches of it are so I know not to dig or plant over them. It's always good to put a marker over late breakers to alert you. And most information on any kind of plants will show you pictures of them at their peak of magnificence -rarely their fall die-back or spring emergence looks. You're kind of left to figure that out on your own. It's all fun and it's all a learning process no matter how long you've been at it. Despite any degree of gardening expertise, no one's immune from unintended consequences - something that just doesn't look right, failure to thrive or survive a winter even though it's supposed to, doesn't make the neighbors stop dead in their tracks. A good local garden center can be a wealth of information.

A southwest exposure in zone 7 is going to get a lot of HEAT. Would not do alberta spruce unless you water, water and want to deal with mites. For larger upright shrubs along wall between windows, maybe: Greenspire Euonymus, or Spartan holly, Steeds holly, Blue Maid holly -- these will require pruning -- for height ...and Hoogendorn holly, Carissa holly or FirePower Nandina below windows.... or maybe a bed of variegated Liriope although that may not grow tall enought to hide the water stain. Also possibly Abelia 'Rose Creek' or possibly Euonymus 'Emerald 'n Gold' or 'Gold Splash' (a larger leafed version of E 'n G -- if you can find it) below windows for a golden contrasting color. This post was edited by dave_in_nova on Thu, May 22, 14 at 10:12

Hydrangea arborense "Annabelle" is hardy in your area, I believe. Since it blooms on new wood. 4 feet (too tall?) If you get "substantial" afternoon sun, try shrub roses. These are usually much less fussy and less problematic with black spot than the hybrid tea roses used for cutting. I grow a lot of polyanthas (a variety of rose), and the foliage is usually quite clean. They are blooming machines from june onward. The Fairy is widely available. Check out the Antique Rose forum for more advice on polyanthas and other shrub roses. (I doubt any of my polyanthas get "substantial" sun.)

Since you have so much space to work with and seem to be pretty open as far as plant suggestions, I would suggest you get a newbie seed packet from Bakemom from the link below before ordering seed. You will probably get many of the seeds you are looking for and then some you didn't even know you wanted. It will be a while before all those trees and shrubs fill in so I would encourage you to experiment with lots of different annuals and perennials to see what you like. Cram as many in as you can without totally covering up the trees and shrubs. Then as the trees and shrubs start to take off you can remove the plants you don't like as much to make room for them. Over the years your yard will gradually transition from sun to shade anyways with all those trees, which will change what types of plants you can grow beneath them. Mother nature doesn't like bare ground, so any of the mulched area you leave unplanted will be planted for you with weeds! Also if you want a quantity of some specific cultivars that cannot be grown from seed you can get divisions from other gardeners or just buy your own and divide them regularly to fill in. Many of those are common landscaping plants that are readily available come spring or as clearance plants in summer/fall. Many on your list are also easily divided and some require it frequently to look good anyways. Dividing large clumps of miscanthus and siberian iris can be a real chore, so I hope you have a good back. Here is a link that might be useful: Bakemom's Newbie Seed Project