I have read that in this instance that people can do two grafts. The native variety being the most hardy and strongest rooting, then a short intermediary piece which can bridge between the native and fruiting varieties. Can anyone assist? Or know someone who can? I have cut down a large native cherry and would like to graft lapins and stella to the sprouts which are sure to come up this spring. "example taken from plum/almond stone fruit grafting" - " Also (and this is where the fun starts) most fruit trees in the Prunus genus are sometimes compatible with each other: almonds, apricots, nectarines, peaches, and plums all are compatible for grafting, but occasionally it's complicated. For example, some plum rootstock is not compatible with peaches or nectarines; and some almonds require an intermediate step before grafting onto some plum rootstocks."

Did you have that tree planted? If so, have you considered contacting the nursery (the owner) to see if they are willing to do anything. You said that you had had the tree for only a couple of years, and that tree has had problems for a while. Sure, the tree is "out of warranty", but that doesn't mean that the nursery wouldn't be willing to work with you, and possibly considerably. If you planted the tree, or were there when it was planted, review the page linked below and compare what actually happened to what should have happened. As for getting someone to remove the tree and plant a new one, are you physically able to do that kind of thing, or do you have someone (family, neighbor, friend, etc) that is? With a small chainsaw (or even a good sharp pruning saw), a shovel, and an ax or mattock, the job wouldn't take very long at all. I would have it out and gone in about 15 minutes. Here is a link that might be useful: Planting a Tree or Shrub

Are you moving it because the shading made it lopsided? If the shading is gone it will fill on over time on the shaded side. Otherwise it really would be happier if you didn't dig it up. If still bent on moving it do it during a time when it has no leaves, getting as much of the root system as possible rather than trimming the roots down to a manageable solid soil ball. Cherry trees are sold bare-rooted at outlets, it is more important to get as much of the roots as possible than to move it with soil on the roots. Have a wide shallow hole ready for the tree to go right into, with its roots spread out and pointing away from the center. Plan on being able to cover all the roots promptly and staking the tree securely at the same time. Stake low on the trunk for one year. Mulch well after planting, with no mulch near the trunk.

Hi there. I'm not a tree expert, but if your trees are that tall, which seems really tall for a chokecherry, are they possibly at the end of their natural lifespan? Did you plant them? Do you know how old they are? Chokecherry trees don't survive as long as many trees. If you know what type of chokecherry you have, it may help the people here who have more tree knowledge than I, determine why you're losing your trees. Good luck =:)