Tap water to rinse Safe T Oil Absorbent for gritty mix: pH issues?
bernard_in_ohio_Medina_Zone_5b
9 years ago
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bernard_in_ohio_Medina_Zone_5b
9 years agobernard_in_ohio_Medina_Zone_5b
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Failure to thrive issues using Gritty Mix
Comments (35)I grow mainly indoors, and I grow mainly bulbs... I also grow mainly in a rendition of the Gritty Mix. I have found that before I mix a batch, I need to soak the bark a bit so it's moist. If I do this, and I make sure I'm in keeping with the concept of the medium with regard to particle size, screening, etc... I have no issues following a re-pot. Also, aftercare is very important... ensuring that the plant has a good opportunity to adjust to it's new medium out of direct sunlight and winds. But if I fail to pre-wet the bark, or keep in mind the concept of the medium and aftercare, I'm doomed to failure. I found that there's no cheating when it comes to good preparation of the ingredients, using the right ingredients, proper aftercare, and that my habits in watering and fertilizing would change. I'd be watering more often, and feeding on a more consistent basis. One other thing I found is that not every plant will enjoy the Gritty Mix. There are a few that are happier in more moisture retentive circumstances... so I adjust for this using medium that more closely resembles the 511, or by adjusting the ingredient ratios or using different ingredients, creating a custom medium for the plant in question. Ambient temperature is a consideration in certain climates, too. Growing indoors, I keep pot edges from touching the window glass, and keep leaves off the glass, too. My preference is unglazed clay, though I do use a few plastic pots for certain plants more sensitive to temperature or moisture retention. One of the biggest mistakes I made in the beginning was not watering enough, and not ensuring the bark was pre-soaked prior to mixing batches of medium. But if I'm honestly doing everything exactly as directed, I have no issues, whatsoever. I think the keys are in understanding the concept, not taking any short cuts, adjusting my care habits, and understanding the limitations of my unique environment and those of the particular plant I'm trying to grow....See Morejust how important is medium/water pH?
Comments (14)Albert, I had bravely but casually approached the "cation exchange capacity" entry on wikipedia once before and soon retreated with my eyes glazed over. I'll have to read around again to see how or why it makes the pH of water nearly irrelevant as you say. Last time I took chemistry was... khm'teen years ago, but I'll do my best. :-) You mentioned hydroponics as an exception. The medium I grow in ("gritty mix" by Al from "container gardening" forum) is so fast-draining that people say it's very close to hydroponics actually. Purple, I re-read what you wrote, and it does not look like "too strong" a statement at all. Rain water is indeed better than tap water - and the fact that I do not have a way of collecting it does not change that fact, I am still glad you mentioned it. No worries at all. Thank you actually. I do not have any chlorotic leaves or fertilizer burn on my plants, but every time I add that tablespoon of vinegar to a gallon of water, part of me thinks if I am really doing something completely unnecessary - or if I should be adding even more. Hence this thread. It's no biggie, no stress here, just a healthy dose of curiosity. :-) dsws, running a humidifier and a dehumidifier at the same time seems a little extreme to me, and I doubt how effective it's going to be. Winter humidity indoors gets down to 20-30% or even into teens here, and the humidifier blasting full-speed does not really increase it well enough into some of my plants' comfort zone). Then there are energy inefficiency issues, the need to buy another device (more clutter to stab my toes against, yay!) - after already having bought the humidifier last winter exclusively for the plants. It's unlikely I'll go for that - but I do appreciate the idea none the less. Thanks even more for the excellent explanation of the buffering capacity. Very interesting! I am glad to hear pH probably does not matter an awful lot in practice, but I am curious... If I understand correctly, what I need to do if I want to know how much vinegar to add to my water is: to let tap water stand around a few days like I normally do, add my usual dose of fertilizer, then measure pH, then if it's too high, add vinegar till pH gets to optimal range , which is either 5-5.5 or 6.5-7 depending who you ask (which is it?) That will give me the amount of vinegar I should be adding, assuming the water composition does not change, which of course it does all the time, but let's ignore that. Does this experiment make sense? Mike, I did check my water report online (http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg0612005017703.html). pH is 6.7 to 9.2 with 7.2 average, they say. I've been adding a tablespoon of vinegar per gallon, but I've seen dosage recommendations anywhere from a teaspoon to half a cup per gallon. They can't all be right. I do not have enough experience to recognize pH problems if/when they happen, so would like to get this right. Thanks, all. Further thoughts are appreciated as always....See Morehelp! pH of rainwater is alkaline
Comments (10)Did you check total dissolved solids with a TDS meter? That might give you a clue if something else is involved from the roof. Also, if you have a metal roof - could cause chemical reaction to affect the ph. There is also the acid rain situation for some folks depending on where they live. I’m in VA USA, my rain water ph,is about 6.8 and the TDS is a low of 4 ppm to a high of 12 ppm depending on the debris in my gutters and how much rain we have had to keep the gutters flushed out. I try to collect after it has rained for about 10 minutes or I just make it easy, and throw a old sheet over the can to keep fine debris out. If you use an actual rain barrel many use screens but still let the fine stuff through. Now to ph..it is important - too high or too low and the nutrients you feed the plants can’t use. This is very important for potted plants as they are in soil-less mixes i.e. peat, coir, perlite, etc. - all inert and must be fed everything NPK and all trace minerals and elements. You can lower your ph (take from ph 7 to 6) by using a few grains of citric acid per gallon of water or raise the ph (ph 5 to 7) with the tiniest bit of baking soda per gallon. You must use a good ph meter and creep up to what level you want. These work well but are not stable to sit around so use right away. If using reservoirs, or storing fertilizer solutions, use commercial products like PH Up or PH Down. If your TDS readings are above 50 ppm, you might need to find a better source of water i.e.rain, distilled, RO if this is due to chemical issues etc. If your rainwater is high once or twice and you know the gutters have tons of debris (trees growing in the gutters, leaves, twigs etc) then don’t worry about it. If you are using tap - have it tested by a lab versed in plants like JR Peters. I believe a typical sample is $40 but it is well worth it if you grow plants for sale, have expensive plants or very sensitive ones like orchids- why waste nutrients and not have healthy plants over $40. They also test soil, potting mixes, and plant tissue. They can tell from the tissue if your plants are deficient in particular nutrients. Also on the web you can find many charts (or from hydroponics shop) that show optimum ph ranges for all the main nutrients to be taken up by the plant. If a particular nutrient like say calcium or magnesium is available to the plant at ph 6.5 -7.0 and your irrigation water or your potting mix has broken down to a very acidic ph 5 - the plant can’t absorb any calcium or magnesium you give it. Your plants might be deficient and you dump dolomite limestone or calcium magnesium supplement - and the plant won’t be helped. Now - if you use a product like GH CaliMagic which is chelated with iron and it allows it to work over a wider range but you still want to be as close as a normal range. Remember uptake and mobility in the plants with all NPK nutrients and minerals is dependent on ph but also type of plant, light, temperature, humidity, etc. Read articles from First Rays, St. Augustine Orchid Society, Maximum Yield, and search for university reports and growing house articles that specify on the plants you are growing for the best information. For example tropical hibiscus is sensitive to fertilizers with a lot of phosphorus (keep it very low like below 5);but they almost can’t get enough potassium and there aren’t many commercial fertilizer mixes that have enough so you have to supplement. If you grow these - check out articles from Hidden Valley Hibiscus. I hope this helps....See MoreFast draining mix (Gritty or something similar) for Hoyas
Comments (36)I use the smaller ones..aerator kind....one part stones one part coir and 1/5 part bio-char.The bio- char is a rough estimate,but i usually just mix up enough for a few plants at a time.Like one quart stones,one quart coir and about 2/3 to a cup of bio-char.As long as your medium is chunky and quick draining most of the stuff mentioned on this post will work if used with the great white and molasses.I had to do a lot of tweaking with this for it to work for me.Mostly how often i water,how much i water and regulating my pH with the nutes and soil amendments i use.I always rely on a moisture meter as well.I also have a pH pen that i use from time to time.Some of the best hoya growers are giving up on the grow stones for various reasons.One grower says she has too much water retention in the stones which leas to root rot in some of her plants,and the other has been having high pH problems with the stones resulting in chlorosis and leaf drop on some of his hoyas.With the microbes and molasses,the plants are more forgiving with less optimum conditions like wet feet,overly dry for too long,low humidity,excessive cold,pH issues etc.I just don't want you to spend tons of money and be discouraged if you don't get the results you are looking for.Grow stones has a product with the coir and microbes mixed in already..kinds like the mix i use minus the bio-char.Link for reference..http://www.amazon.com/Growstone-GS-3-Coco-Soil-9-Liter/dp/B00I8J1X9C/ref=pd_sim_86_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=51manGvpMCL&dpSrc=sims&preST=AC_UL160_SR124%2C160&refRID=1PR35PM43EJ1SPRFM24Y...See Moretapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agobernard_in_ohio_Medina_Zone_5b
9 years agobernard_in_ohio_Medina_Zone_5b
9 years agobernard_in_ohio_Medina_Zone_5b
9 years agodrew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agobernard_in_ohio_Medina_Zone_5b
9 years agobernard_in_ohio_Medina_Zone_5b
9 years agobernard_in_ohio_Medina_Zone_5b
9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agobernard_in_ohio_Medina_Zone_5b thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)