The GE Zoneline units are one of the most common brands found in motel rooms, and they are also often used in smaller apartments. They have models that use heat pumps for heating. You will want to look at the 5800 series, because these are the ones with a defrost cycle, and they can run resistance heat to maintain the room temperature during the defrost. Some of of the other heat pump models are really intended only for warmer climates, and they only run as heat pumps down to 40 degrees F or so, and below that they'll just switch over to resistance heat. Here is a link that might be useful: GE Zoneline dealer

Hello Your heat pump air-to-air sounds like the best options. If you dont need to use it for water the COP is quite high, usually COP-3-4. The COP means a ratio of what you get out vs what you put in. The COP of 3 is 3 times the heaat of what you put in. There are a number, some that get a COP of around 5 using source of 30F. Others list between 3-4 quite generally. Carrier is a maker of one type which has a COP of 3 and is a small size. When the source (outdoor temp) is low the COP goes down as does the output. (Below freezing especially). Its worth having an oil or wood or gas heater to go with the system as back up. Heat pumps that can heat water have to work harder as the water is warmer than the air used in buildings, so they use expensive CO2 heat pumps which will set you back about $5K easily. Therefore I would suggest keeping a boiler system, outdoor boiler. An indoor stove needs fresh air which is not ideal for heat pump system which works ideally with heat recovery on the ventilation system (extract heat from waste air at 90% or so efficiency). A neat approach may be to operate an air -to-air heat pump, aim for as high a COP as possible, but install a gas boiler if you have this. The smaller boilers, condensing systems, are surprisingly cheap. If you install a waste water heat recovery system which is just aa heat exchanger on you waste water from your shower, you can half the energy you need and thereby get by with a smaller boiler and consume only about 4-5kWh/day for shower water. A condensing boiler works most efficiently when working with water heating rather than central heating, and plus, the typical condensing system now heats so quickly that you dont need a hot water tank, reducing loses. You would still have at least 15KW available for heating the home. This can be done by putting in a heating loop into the air ducting that is shared with the air-pump. This could be a compact fan assisted system. There would be expense in heating controls for all the ducting. However, if you cannot put in ducting, then you can install a water radiator central heating system. To work with a heat pump, you can go for the super-efficient CO2 based systems that are emerging but expensive. The efficiency can be raised if the heat is needed at a low temperature, so requiring either under-floor heating or a 'fan assisted radiator' which extract more heat and can return the water to the heat pump much cooler than normal radiators, and require a lower temperature, raising COP. I would go with: Waste water heat exchanger ( I guess $500 est with capital cost $200-$300 plus basic installation if incorporated with a boiler installation and pipework anyway) -this will reduce the energy requirement of the condensing boiler, potentially allowing a smaller system. Condensing boiler - 15-25kW output, 90% efficient, capital cost $500 ebay Air-to-Air heat pump (in loft) - COP 3-5 (later figure seen in an Austrian GSHP but should work with airsource unless outside air is usually very cold?) cost? controls? Fan assisted radiator in ducting for backup (run off boiler)? Ventilation heat recovery

Tigerdunes,thanks for responding. House is 2125 s/f ranch. As stated above have 14 yr old 3ton Goodman R-22 heat pump with bad compressor. When it was working it seem to work well, except in extreme hot & cold would have to raise or lower thermostat to keep up and would run more. And you would feel cool air fist coming out of vents before heating. Never had a problem with air handler, 27 yr old Carrier, which is in the attic,except for a capacitor. The heat pump had condensor fan replaced, some capacitors, and last couple years had hard start on it. I was also told the line set would not have to be changed on the XR15, but according to specs on net for 3 ton Goodman, it has 3/4 and 3/8 as opposed to specs on XR15 which is 3/4 and 7/8? What size heat strip do you suggest? Your thoughts on changing the 27 yr old ductwork. If so, size and type recommended. Same size as existing or is size of duct related to type system/size system installed?

Tiger said, "this post deserves further and more complete explanation..." Amen. First of all, where are you located? If you have any degree of heat/humidity in the summer, you need to size the HP for COOLING. To be offered a choice of HP with a 2 ton spread is preposterous, not to mention how your duct system will function. Info please. Heat calc, anyone? V