You don't talk about more branches the better in 4 in 1 trees- you just don't have a choice. I hate these trees- they are a virtual impossibility to train well. Each variety has it's own level of vigor, but in Asian pears and peaches this might not be as big a problem as with apples. Apples are all I have experience with in this form. It looks like branches were already cut back for shipping. What you need to do during the growing season is keep the 4 different varieties growing at about the same pace so one doesn't dominate the tree. I can see that will be an issue for the peach for sure, with the top branch in position to dominate. Pinch growth that eminates from where branches were cut to encourage dominance of a single leader while developing less vigorous (smaller) secondary branching off it. Each variety should be treated like an individual central leader tree in terms of form. The central leader being like a trunk with smaller branches (no more than half diameter) coming off it. Also pinch back as needed to keep the different varieties in balance. Pinching means that you're removing as little growth as possible to stear energy where you want it, so it won't really retard overall growth. If you let the trees go without guidance for even one season you may loose control with certain varieties dominating the tree and starving out other varieties. Anyway, that's my opinion. My experience is primarily with 4in1's that have been badly trained and I have to try to straighten things out later. I would never produce a tree like this, much better to alternate varieties by tiers off a central leader, placing most vigorous varieties at base. In other words, new varieties are grafted as extensions of the trunk as the trees grow up. This wouldn't work well for peaches, though.

There are larger busniess models and smaller ones. Larger models most often run their sales with that PT Barnum attitude of kindof treatng their customers like suckers- selling illusion and exageration instead of just emphasizing selling a quality product at a fair price. Stark is into that slick marketing technique that turns a lot of us off but has generally proven to be succesful in mass-marketing. Of course this isn't just based on the size of a company and I think you guys know what I'm talking about. All things being equal, I like to run with the smaller comapnies when I can, but if volume sales leads to cheaper prices for me, I may not care how a company sells their product- I'm likely to go for better price and better selection. However, if I lived in Philly, I wouldn't buy from Starks because there is similar selection and price from a more local nursery- Adams County Nursery. Adams County doesn't do that slick marketing to the homeowner-gardener crowd but they do sell individual trees and their selection is generally more tailored to mid-Eastern conditions. The first orchard I ever planted in the northeast was from trees from Starks. I ended up cutting down every tree I ordered from them because the varieties didn't do well here. Of course it is much easier to match varieties to regions now with all the info available but when you look at the pictures in a Stark Brothers catalogue and read the descriptions, it's pretty easy to pick the wrong trees.

Wait for it to grow, and see what it looks like at the end of the year. Any branches that are in the way, or obviously crossing/rubbing another branch can be removed at any time. The more leaves it has, the better root system it will grow, so I would leave it until next spring. I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how well a one-year whip can grow into a nicely branched tree. Let it "do its thing" and if you don't like it, come back for more advice. If you can post a photo, than you might get other advice, but without seeing it, that's what I would do.

Cedar apple rust is a very common apple problem. The spray I use has an ingredient of myclobutanil in it. It looks like Fertilome Fstop has it, too. It really depends on how serious is your CAR issue. If it's not serious, you can get away with 2-3 sprays in a growing season. If it's bad, your first spray should be done before apple flowers bloom. Don't spray during blooming period. Then, one spray after petal fall and then 10-14 days after that. Read the label and follow the instruction.