michoumonster, to qualify under Title 24 as "high efficacy", the type of light either needs to be generically qualified, e.g. fluorescent fixtures meeting a certain standard, or it needs to be "listed." Anything you or I whip together out of components isn't going to be listed. It is also doubtful that these LED strips/transformer will meet the minimum lumens/watt to qualify anyway. Check out your strip LED specs (which ones are you using?), knock of 20% for power loss in the transformer, and see if you can meet the standards: â¢15 Watts or Less- Minimum of 40 lumens per watt â¢15-40 Watts- Minimum of 50 lumens per watt â¢Over 40 Watts- Minimum of 60 lumens per watt There are strip light fixtures that meet this, but if I understand correctly you aren't planning on using those. To ionized: if one wants uniform lighting in the cove, rather than just at spots, T5 would put out way way too much light for the application. Here is a link that might be useful: Search for high efficacy lighting and other appliances

I'm not into trends, so we pretty much do around our place as we really want it. This year I put 21 Lithonia LED recessed throughout the dining/kitchen/living/hall. Wife wanted the chandelier eliminated in the foyer, and installed a 5" recessed there. The dining room is set up with a ceiling fan/light, 4-5" recessed on a dimmer, then 2-3" recessed on another dimmer. The living room we added a ceiling fan/light, and 4-5" recessed lights on a dimmer. We're very happy with the outcome. I must say, when I was determining where to place the lights, the ceiling looked like a grid. I shot drywall screws into the ceiling, & ran twine from end to end. Two of the lights we ended up adding was in the hallway after I put a 5" recessed light there. We added 2-3" recessed at each closet. In the enclosed space, the recessed just don't light up like a globe does. Next is the bathroom. I can run all 21 lights, & still be under the watts used for our 4 bulb vanity light. Makes it seem all worthwhile.

I don't think it matters as long as you can definitely tell they are different colors. If they are too close in shade then it might look like you were trying to match, but didn't quite make it. :-) In my daughter's room I have a shade and sheer curtains. If everything is closed then the room is really dark (great for naps and summer when she goes to bed when it's still light out). If I want just a little light, or some light with privacy, then I open the shade but leave the sheers closed. And when I want it bright, I open it all up! Works great for us. My son's room had blinds, but I replaced it with a shade. Our neighbor's son had a tragic accident because of cords from their blinds and I immediately rid my home of all cords. They even had the child safety cord winders, but he reached it somehow and figured out how to get it off. Just my two cents, since your daughter's bed will be right up against the window and she could easily stand on the bed and get to the cords.

Wow, you know I'm not so sure about your question regarding the chair rail. Of course typical height from what I understand is 32-36 inches depending on chair height and such, but for this situation, that's a good question. The concern I would have about putting it too much higher would be a matter of proportion and how pleasing to the eye that would be. If 36 inches is still too low, you may want to consider doing a separate thread and asking what heights other people ended up with when doing something similar. In regards to color for the rail, that is totally up to you, but I wouldn't worry about matching it to the furniture. I would want to match the rail with the trim and doors because it looks more cohesive. Glad you like the polk-a-dot idea, just keep them sparce, it won't take a lot to give it that fun look.