Garden Planning - 8 Raised Beds and Texas Heat
syntria
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
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zzackey
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Help with layout of 8x8 raised beds?
Comments (9)In this case you would make the rows run east/west and then you could have enough room for everything you want.To make the most of your space, you could trellis the tomato plants using string veggie trellis like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-String-Trellis-928/202819857 along one outside edge of the garden and plan on 4 or 5 tomato plants on that 1ftx8ft row. If you use a heavy producing hybrid variety of tomato like Super Sweet 100 and larger variety if you like, you will have plenty of tomatoes. I would also tuck a marigold plant between each of the tomato plants to help with pest problems. My tomatoes always grow better with marigolds around. Plant a 2ft x 8ft row of eggplant, again about 4 or 5 plants, right in front of the tomatoes. Since you'll be able to reach the tomatoes from the outside, you won't need space between the tomatoes and eggplant. Make a 2ft x8ft foot path next to give you good room to move through the garden, then plant a row of pepper plants 1ftx8ft. Depending on the variety, you may be able to get 1 per square foot of this row, so up to 8 plants total. This brings you up to 1ft tomatoes, 2 ft eggplants, 2ft walkway, 1ft peppers with 2ft remaining for squash. Pick a compact variety of squash and plant them as close as possible to the outer southern edge of the garden with the intention of them hanging halfway over the outer edge. Make sure you've amended the soil with a good amount of compost to keep things growing strong. That's what I would do to maximize the space, but I'm no expert. There are also different schools of thought about gardening so do a bit of research and see what fits you best. I loosely follow the square foot gardening method with modifications I've adapted through trial and error. This picture shows my old garden from 2yrs ago using a trellis netting. I used that set up to plant tomatoes the whole 16ft length and in the picture I used it for beans, pumpkin and watermelon. That bed it 2ftx16ft....See MoreRaised Bed Soil PH 8.2!!!
Comments (24)I'm back to give an update on my raised bed soil problem situation. I did get my money back last fall from the owner of the gardening center. In addition to my money, he also gave me a small bag of various fertilizing ingredients mixed together to sprinkle on the soil, which I did last fall. Also, he gave me a larger bag of various cover crop seeds to plant in the fall including rye grass, vetch and peas to turn over into the soil in the spring in order to infuse nitrogen and more organic material, which I did. Also, I added a couple of 40 pound compost-plus-manure bags from Lowe's and mixed those in a few weeks ago. Now, a couple weeks ago, I planted a few cabbage transplants in one of my raised beds. To compare, I also planted two of the cabbage transplants on the same day just a few feet away directly in my backyard soil (the backyard soil had been covered with newspaper and my own compost in the fall to prepare a new flower bed). In short, the cabbage in the raised bed with the problem soil are not growing but the cabbage growing in my backyard soil are thriving. The raised bed transplants are just sitting there, stunted, not growing. There is no difference in performance even after all the various treatments I've tried. I'm seeing the same disappointing frustrating results as in the fall. So, I'm going to replace all the soil in the raised beds, as many of you suggested. The three raised beds only combine for a total growing area of 64 square feet so it's doable. I suppose I could just mix some of my own backyard soil with some organic amendments like compost, peat, etc. Anything is better than what's in there now. Originally I had planned on Mel Bartholomew's special mix: 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss and 1/3 vermiculite but I found that too expensive for my budget. Any suggestions?...See MoreBuilding raised garden beds with 4x8x16 concrete blocks
Comments (2)I found surface bond cement worked quite well, and was fairly easy for a first time user. It did not require leveling every block. Just level your ground and dry stack your blocks, and spread it on the outside/inside. Quickrete, and sakrete both have a version that is available and Lowes and Home Depot. http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/QuickwallSurfaceBondingCement.asp http://www.sakrete.com/products/detail.cfm/prod_alias/Surface-Bonding-Cement I would (did) use full size blocks 8X8X16 they are not that much bigger and you can grow lots of stuff in the blocks. I have strawberries, Garlic, and about every herb doing quite well. There is a pretty big jump in stress adding the 4th row. I would discourage the 4th row (32"). Unless you have a level or solid footer, or plan on using mortar to help level it out. The flaws get magnified with every row, and for my dry stacked blocks the 4th row was really tough to get level. For my gardens the 32" garden has seen settling and winter/summer cracking. My 24" 3 row stack gardens have not. As for reinforcing the walls maybe pour the corners solid with reinforced or fiber "crack resistant" cement. The ready mix cement is not the difficult to mix, just add water and mix until it is workable. After completing my gardens I had to ask myself how much am I going to save my back by having high raised beds Vs. the gardening on the ground. I think in another 10 years I will break even. Though in my area the raised beds have worked wonders at keeping the bugs/ nematodes away....See MoreRaised Bed Garden Plan
Comments (9)You should be looking for a soil that approximates loam, soil that is about 45 percent sand, 25 percent clay, 25 percent silt and 5 percent organic matter. In this area of the world soil costs about $22.00 per cubic yard with a delivery charge that varies depending on your distance from the landscapers yard. Do not simply call around to find the least expensive soil, go and look at what is being offered. Do not rely on the sellers description of the product, look at it before you purchase any and again before the truck dumps it at your house to be sure what is being delivered is what you bought. There have been many instances posted here from people who did not do that with very disappointing results. Do not let someone tell you that "topsoil" is the same thing as loam either. In the linked description of loam Purdue uses the terms "Organic Matter" and Organic Material" interchangeably and many do. However, Organic Material is the raw material, the compost, shredded leaves and other vegetative waste you add to soil while "Organic Matter" is the residual organic material, what is left in the soil after the Soil Food Web has digested it. https://hort.purdue.edu/ext/loam.html kimmq is kimmsr...See Moregumby_ct
9 years agonancyjane_gardener
9 years agosyntria
9 years agoCharlie
9 years agosyntria
9 years agopurslanegarden
9 years agoCharlie
9 years agonancyjane_gardener
9 years agogarybeaumont_gw
9 years agoTracy West
9 years ago
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daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)