Thanks, folks, for all the good clues on the red wire issue above! I have a 2009 LTX1046 and had the same symptoms with the PTO cutting off at medium speed, as well as the no-reverse cut-off. I added 6 inches of wire, soldered and taped, to both the green and red (mine was black and white, but I traced it upstream and found red) wires. To answer the question from HU-680248234 above, yessir, you were correct, that was the location of the red wire connection. Note that what you were referring to is actually a blade electrical connector. I pulled it off with needle-nosed pliers and replaced with a new one soldered onto the end of my red wire. After reinstalling, give it a squeeze with pliers to ensure the new one stays in place. Views below are from below and the top (through the battery hole).

Been a bit busy with the yard to respond before now. It's now due for another trimming with the Toro self-propelled I ended up with (a 2hr plus task last time that is bound to take a bit longer this time since I skipped one side yard and the front yard the first time round). As for the Craftsman...I've drained the fuel on it (the fuel had stabilizer in it but better safe than sorry) and will be taking the battery out to place it on a trickle charger until I can get it over to the one place that will service it since it doesn't look like they will be picking it up for me after all. Perhaps I was just plain unlucky but the problem I've been having was NOT due to lack of maintenance on my part. I've been very careful to do the recommended maintenance and have had no problems with the engine, etc. A defective safety switch is not a maintenance issue. I just wish the problem hadn't been intermittent for so long or I would have considered coughing up the $50 service charge when it was still under warranty. I was concerned that the problem wouldn't show up and I'd be out the $50 with nothing to show for it (okay and I -was- irked it cost that much when the lawnmower was still under warranty). With just one mower to base this problem on I can't say whether it's a common one or not...just that other people I've talked to seem to have had similar headaches with service and it's something well worth considering when purchasing a new lawnmower. I've also found standard air filters, etc. to be far more expensive than other brands so that's another thing to consider as well. Fortunately the most expensive part, the air filter which runs $25 at Sears, appears to be a standard Briggs and Stratton part that can be obtained elsewhere for less than half that (quite the discount, eh?). Now...to get back to that lawn. I don't suppose anyone has some sheep I can borrow for a bit...say the rest of the summer? Actually now that I think about it...anyone know if replacing a safety switch on one of these things is a DIY project? So far I've heard...it depends... From the way it's acting I've been told it may be the clutch safety. Perhaps I can work on it after fixing the trailer lights...or before since I then wouldn't need it so desperately... Just as an additional point...sometimes the inconvenience of having something like this out of service for so long can more than make up for a couple hundred dollar price difference. Now if one's talking about several hundred dollars...I'd go for the sheep myself...;-)

Well, you have to look at it like this.....there is no component on the tractor that is going to impose a continuous load of anything near to 25 amp. So the long term/long time continuous load is going to be more in the range of 3 amps or less. However, a direct short to ground is capable of imposing a load that in theory might exceed 50 amps, which will make the 25 amp fuse pop like a camera flash. The high amp load will not exist long enough for the 16 gauge wire to even feel warm, let alone do any harm. But, a continuous load of 20 amps will ultimately heat up the 16 gauge wire until the insulation fails, at which point the 25 amp fuse will fail........but only if the failure point is located between the fuse and the load. If the failure point is located between the fuse and the battery + connection point, be prepared to dial 911, because the 16 gauge wire is about to turn red hot. Personally, if I were going to make any alterations (to err on the side of caution) I would use 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse if no electric PTO clutch is part of the picture (25 amp if electric PTO). But I would also relocate the fuse holder so that there is a very short run of wire from where the circuit begins, say.....not over about 6". That way, the chances of a short ever developing that the fuse can't protect against.....are greatly reduced (I stop "short" of saying ELIMINATED). Realistically speaking, the odds of the 16 gauge wire ever causing an issue are very small. If there was a plethora of fires and failures due to industry using small gauge wires that seem to defy logic, then the industry would have been forced long ago to upsize their wires. Truth is, the 16 gauge wire is adequate for a 3 amp or 5 amp charging system where there are no large consumption components featured on the machine. And if it were me, I would have said "I had a leaky front tire that I put some Slime into." ^:)

So guess what? I actually mowed the other day! It was only for about 15 minutes because my right rear tire won't hold air for any longer than that. I noticed that, in spite of having been doused with belt dressing, the drive belt still slips and it's worse after it gets warm. So I've ordered a new drive belt and a tube for the tire. Gosh, after that I think all that would remain is to rig some sort of cup holder. ;-) Actually I will have to address the steering. It turns more sharply to the left than to the right. But that seems like a comparatively minor issue. The front wheel bearings will also need attention at some point. Also, the Motion Control Lever seems to be out of adjustment. Don't know if the lever itself is bent or if it's simply an adjustment that needs to be done. But it still mostly works.