Tractorcito, you will a "multi-meter" tester and a 12 volt test light. I will also give my standard advice to get a digital camera and take lots of pictures of all the electrical components and devices. This will serve as your "trail marker system" later. In addition to the diagram on page 31 in the OM, page 32 gives a sorta-kinda layout of the components and not much in the way of specific locations or mounting configurations. But, we can likely work around this. I guess the first thing you need to do is to buy a new key switch, item # 30, Sears part #144921. You say you think the previous owner messed things up! Does the harness at the key switch still have the OEM 5 blade, molded plastic connector in place? Or has that been cut off and replaced with individual, separate terminal connectors? I also want you to read the next few sentences and learn their lesson verbatim: When removing the battery cables from the battery, always remove THE NEGATIVE CABLE FIRST, and the positive cable last. When attaching the battery cables, connect the positive first, and the negative last. This is for safety reasons to minimize the chances of causing an arc which might cause a battery explosion. An "add-on" to the pictures is to use some 3 X 5 cards and a felt pen to write a description of what the picture is, then place the card on the tractor where it will show in the picture. Also, use tags with a tie wire to attach it to the component or wire and what plugs to it, or it plugs into. Make drawings and sketches too. Put all your digital photos and other notes into a folder in your computer for easy access. Give a response on whether you want to go ahead with this. It will require careful attention to detail, but it is very "do-able".

I would think you could use page 31 diagram color coded wiring scmatic to trace the wiring on the tractor. as mowie suggested a multimeter is a must and of course basic knowledge of how to use the meter also. If you can't trace the wires or understand where point A to B are and determine the connection is good using the multimeter or homemade bulb light you maybe over your head, way over your head!

the problem with used mowers that most owners will let them set out in the rain and everything rusts up, switches will stick or get stuck in one position, and they may wire around a 5 dollar switch instead of replacing it do to the inconvience of obtaining parts. So some knowledge of each component function is a must to figure out if it is working or not.

With that said you will either have to do it or pay someone else to do it. I would remove the hood and the deck (if you can and know how to get it back on) for easy access to the wiring. Now you will have to start at the ingition switch trace the wires to the solinold, from their to the engine and then onto the safety switches. Again system knowledge and understanding what each switch or part does is a must to have a change to understand if it is functioning properly or not.

This something that you just have to do to gain any knowledge in troubleshooting any problem, sort of training yourself based on observations,trial, and error. If you don't try it you will never obtain it.

Hey thanks mownie and rcmoser for your responses. Ok I'll see if I can answer your questions one by one:
* I do have a camera and I'll get a couple shots of the initial chaos to start.
* I remember my auto shop teacher in high school. At the end of class he would say to disconnect the negative cable from the battery. He would pause and stress the word negative and pronounce it like "negateeve". Hehe, I can still almost hear his voice after more than 20 years. :-)
* Yes, the molded plastic connector harness is still there. The new switch has the five blade thingy, but two of the posts are reversed on the switch. This would be easy enough to change the harness to match (and that may be part of what has been done), however the diagram on page 31 says that in the 'start' position, B+S+L should be on. But with my switch it's only B+S and no L. (I determined this with a little continuity tester I made years ago with a 35mm film case and a 9v battery & LED). Anyway, I think you're right, I need the right switch. BTW, a couple of the wires are not the right color as described on the diagram and there is one wire nut in there that just doesn't seem OEM to me.
* I do not have a multimeter, but my dad has one I can borrow. Maybe he can also give me a little tutorial on its use.
* There is a non-standard toggle switch in the dash. Dunno what he was trying to do, but it isn't connected to anything now. It may have been intended to make 'L' hot when the ignition was turned to start. Or maybe it was for some attachment, don't know but again I suppose it won't matter if I have the right ignition switch.
* The hood and deck are off.
* I think you nailed it rcmoser, my real learning curve will be gaining an understanding of what each component does and how to determine whether or not it's working.

I'm sure there will be a certain feeling of accomplishment when I can finally take it on its maiden voyage. I'll be sure to drop your names when asked how "I" did it. ;-)

***"I'll get a couple shots of the initial chaos to start."***
OK, but don't think I'm asking you to post ALL THOSE PICTURES to the forum. Those photos are meant to be your self made map of where you have been. You can post a couple to the forum for everybody to see, so we'll know what the mess looks like. But you need to take mucho photo for your records.
Get a new switch. Post your photos. We will steer you through, if you read something you don't understand, don't be shy! Ask!

I would verify that you have the correct ignition switch.
The schematic shows which terminals are connected to what in the various switch positions. It's to the lower left of the page.

Switches can be quite different internally, depending on if it's one for a points type ignition or the magnetron type.

In your schematic, the M terminal is grounded to kill spark. In others, it would supply 12V to the coil.

Your Voltage regulator is on the engine.
It has 2 Yellow wires that come from under the engine shrould and should have a Red one that goes to the B terminal of the key switch

I have ordered the correct switch, 144921. Found it for $14 on eBay.

Thanks for the tip about the voltage regulator Bill.

For your Sears parts, use a search engine and use-
AYP and the Sears PN.
Example-
AYP 144921
You'll often find additional PN's used for other brands of equipment too.

MAny times, your local dealer may be cheaper when you add the S&H from the internet.

A DVN could be used on the OHMS scale to check continuity or just as important, lack thereof in the various switch positions.
Even a simple 12V test light with a power source could be used.

Did you know for sure that the old switch was wrong? A different PN could be an equivalent??
However, many times when a person rewires something, they think a 5 pin switch is a 5 pin switch is a......

I was in one of the big box store awhile back and they had AYP/MTD ingition switches and solinods was as cheap as you could find on the net with shipping included. Actually I was impressed with all the spare replacement parts on hand at these wallyworld style stores.

I've been soooper busy & haven't dealt with the tractor any more yet. Jr and I have a big day tomorrow, but after I've had an opportunity to play with it more, I'll post again.

The new switch arrived today. I would have gone to Big R or Wal-Mart if I'd thought of it. Ah well, it's here now. Until later...

Ok well I've finished the wiring (I think). I connected the battery and heard no arcing and saw no smoke - both a good sign I thought. The headlights turn on and the clutch/brake sensor seems to work.

When I tried to start it, it doesn't turn over. I can see the little thingy that turns on the top of the engine moving just one or two degrees but that's it. My fear is that the engine is locked up, but my hope is that I've simply gotten a wire wrong.

One thing I am unsure of is the wire that is supposed to go from the PTO switch to the solenoid. It is meant to be white according to the diagram. The one that's on there is red (that's how it was when I got it). In any case I ran it to the port labeled 'G' on the PTO plug. (After all, electricity doesn't care what color its conductor is wearing as an insulator right)? But there is an 'open' connection on the solenoid and I'm not sure what it's for.

Looking at the picture, we'll number the connectors 1, 2, 3 and 4, from left to right. 1 has two wires, one to the battery and one to the fuse and then on to the Ammeter. 2 is the one I've run to 'G' on the PTO. 3 is not used. And 4 goes to the starter. So my question is how can I know what 2 and 3 are supposed to be for? Is this where the multi-tester comes in? And how can I test whether the starter and solenoid are working?

Anyway, I think we're close to either getting it running or replacing the engine. :-o

P.S. Sorry about the poor quality picture. It was taken with my phone.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:351018}}

***"'open' connection on the solenoid and I'm not sure what it's for."***
That unused post would be the second small post in the diagram, it runs to a ground. The post is not used on the solenoid on your tractor because (obviously) your solenoid grounds via the metal surface the solenoid is mounted to. But, if this solenoid were to be mounted to an electrically non-conducting surface.....it would require that the second small post be fitted with a wire connected to a ground somewhere in order for the solenoid to operate (pull in).
Right also on the PTO switch terminal G, it connects to the first small post on the starter solenoid (just as you have it). As you said, electrons are color blind!
Before you give up and tear down the engine (is that where you were headed?) make certain that you have a good, fully charged battery in the equation. If unsure, have it load tested at an auto parts or repair shop. At least, try to jump start it from a known to be good battery first.

Remove the spark plugs and try to turn the engine by hand. You may need to put a socket on the PTO clutch center bolt under the tractor, or you may want to remove the top flywheel cover and try turning it by hand there. Report back what you learn. Begin with the battery, you gotta have a good battery to start with :^)

Well the news is not good. I removed the spark plugs. They were not rusty or otherwise in obviously bad condition. But the engine still does not want to turn. It seems like I should be able to turn the thingy on top (is it a flywheel) by hand. It has some sort of fins on it. But it will not budge. I put a 9/16 socket on the bolt and it loosened before the engine even thought about moving. I tried to shine a light into each spark plug hole & couldn't really see much. I 'felt around' with a screw driver, but didn't want to risk scoring the cylinder walls, so that wasn't very informative either.

Ok so at this point I have a confession to make. The first night I brought it home, I left it outside on the trailer. It rained a little that night and the hood was off. Could exposure to the rain that night have caused the engine to rust frozen? What is down there under the top flywheel cover? Would it be of any use to bathe it in WD-40? On an unrelated note, are the fins on that flywheel thingy for air induction?

***"Could exposure to the rain that night have caused the engine to rust frozen?"***
Doubtful that a single rain would lead to lock-solid. At this point it would be nice to learn some of the history of this tractor, if it could be had.
***"What is down there under the top flywheel cover?"***
Under the flywheel cover is the flywheel, ignition magneto, and starter ring gear. The cooling fan bolts to the top of the flywheel (you already found that). Under the flywheel is the alternator stator.
I inserted a link to the Kohler service manual. And I will remind you that the owner's manual (link you provided) does have the IPL for the Kohler engine in it. You will do well to familiarize your self with the parts list and the engine service manual. It appears that we may be heading into a locked engine and no need for you to be clueless when we start trying to get to the bottom of that.
To start with, remove the big sheet metal flywheel cover (called blower housing by Kohler) so the starter drive can be inspected, we want to make sure the starter drive is not engaged to the flywheel and locked, causing the engine to be locked. Once you get the blower housing removed, try to turn the flywheel in either/both directions. Figure that out and report back.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kohler MV18S (and others)serman

Is everything else that's connected to the engine disengaged? The output shaft, the transmission?

atick with mownie's advice, but to baymee's point your pto clutch might just be frozen up....

Frozen PTO clutch should still allow for a little "free movement" in both directions with the plugs out, and after the little bit of free movement, you should still be able to turn the engine (with some effort) and the mowing deck spindles (unless there is a problem there as well). But we are just in the beginnings of this, so leave no stone unturned.

Well, remember that the deck is off the tractor right now, so I imagine any clutch issues would not manifest themselves until after it's back on. I did check to see that the drive belt is not somehow bound up against the output pulley. I'll check the starter & report back after that.

By the way, we've thought of the perfect name for this tractor - that is after we get it running again - "Lazarus"! ;-)

Well, so far the first criterion for that name has certainly been met. "Rasputin" would be out of the question! :^)

Ok so the starter is engaged with the flywheel. It doesn't seem to want to go back down into the starter housing. Shall I bang on it with a hammer until it behaves or is there a more... elegant solution?

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:351019}}

Ok, quick update. I removed the starter and tried to turn the engine. It didn't turn (but I could tell it wanted to). Anyway, I put a 3/8 socket extension in one of those three holes on the side of the flywheel for leverage and cranked. It turned with difficulty about 45 degrees and I heard a scraping/grinding noise underneath. I turned it more and at some point something broke loose. The engine turns freely now!

I put my finger over each spark plug hole while turning the engine and verified both force air out. So that tells me the pistons have no holes, the valves open and close and that the connecting rods are indeed connected.

Anyway, I'll dissect the starter and see if I can figure out the deal there. Thanks again mownie for the Kohler manual.

It runs! ...sort of.

The starter now works as it should. Both plugs are firing (at least that's what my inductive timing light tells me), but it wasn't starting. If I pour a little gas into the carb, it will fire up for a few seconds. I can see gas going into the fuel filter, and the gas smells fresh. Maybe it's an issue of needing to 'prime' the fuel line or maybe the fuel pump has an issue.

Anyway, that's where we are as of 11:16AM MDT :-)

Maybe I'll grab a bite and then tinker some more.

Next step. see if fuel in coming out of the fuel pump? disconnect at the carb. using a catch can and turn the engine over. Fuel should spurt out? if no fuel pump then fuel should free flow up to the carb. Now, make sure the fuel selonoid is working remove it from the bottom of the carb. turn the key on it should actuate, turn it off and it should actuate. Next step is clean the carb. using carb. cleaner, it's probably gummed up and the small passages and jets are restricted stopping the fuel flow.

You probably need to remove the plugs and lubricate the piston rings do to the stuck engine with MMO, carb. cleaner, or few oz. of engine oil and motor the engine over may help loosen any rings that might be stuck. I don't like using oil cause it caused smoke and misfires when you get it to fire. Carb cleaner or MMO works great IMO. Course other will have there own snake oil remedy.

Follow the Kohler manual instructions on lubing the "drive splines" of the starter armature shaft. A generic lube in lieu of the Kohler recommended lube is available at auto parts centers under various names. Dri-slide is one. It's a moly lube product available as spray or in a squeeze can.
rcmoser is pointing you in the right direction on the carb and piston rings, though I put a solvent type lube (PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench etc.) into the cylinders through the plug holes to help loosen up the rings. When you get this engine into better running condition, you'll want to do a few oil changes at short intervals to help get the trash & crud out as quick as you can. 5 hours run time between 2 or 3 oil changes will do. You should also go ahead and replace the fuel hoses and filter (use the GENUINE KOHLER BRANDED filter only. I also suggest you buy some Seafoam gasoline additive and use it as recommended to help clean the gunk from the intake valves. Also, cleaning out the fuel tank now, may save you the trouble of having several clogged fuel filters in a very short time.

Alright, gas is getting delivered to the carburetor. When I take off the fuel line and crank the engine, gas comes shooting out.

So now I'll assume the carburetor needs a good cleaning. I've never cleaned a carb before. Will I need to take it off and take it apart in order to clean it?

***"Will I need to take it off and take it apart in order to clean it?"***
Best if you do, but you don't have to "completely dismantle" the carb to do a cleaning. You WILL have to remove the float bowl, float, and needle. You should remove the jets also in order to clean them as well as the threaded bores they go into. Clean all holes, passages, ports, jets with spray carb cleaner, Probe carefully into holes with a piece of fine, stiff wire along with the spray carb cleaner. If you have compressed air to blow out holes and passages, so much for the better. Be gentle with the float and needle parts, you don't want to bend anything there, bending any part of the float of associated parts will affect the performance quality of the engine. Study the Kohler manual closely to familiarize yourself. Don't be shy about asking either. You will not need to disassemble anything relating to the throttle shaft or plate. Also skip the parts about knocking out the "welch plugs" unless an initial cleanout fails to produce good results. Before you start "unscrewing" any of the adjuster screws or needles, get a piece of paper and write down the "adjustment position", or setting of each screw. Do this by counting precisely how many turns clockwise is required to bottom out, or seat, the adjuster screw/needle. Count each turn and fraction of turns clockwise and write it down. Then when you reassemble later, you just bottom the screw/needle and then back it out counter clockwise to the original setting. That way you are close to being adjusted.

Be sure to take plenty of pictures! I can't tell you enough how important is is to record a picture trail for your own protection. So get lots of photos. And be sure to shoot a lot of pictures too.

So I took the winter off from tractor tinkering, but I am happy to report that today I took "Lazarus" for his maiden voyage around the property. I removed and cleaned the fuel tank, blew out the fuel line, and with new gas it runs happily.

The drive belt seems to be slipping a little. If I pull back on the brake pedal, it engages - mostly. According to the manual, the belt is not adjustable and should be replaced if it's slipping.

I still need to deal with the tires, which are cracked and have some dry rot. They hold air for a while, but go flat overnight. I have a Fix-A-Flat in one, but I think I need something thicker. I have a bottle of this green tire sealant called "slime". I'll try that next.

I have yet to test the PTO.

Well, anyway, just wanted to update for those of you who were losing sleep at night wondering about the status of Lazarus. :-)

Tractorcito, be sure the brake pedal pivot and linkages are nice and free and well lubed. If there is some binding or seizing taking place, the return spring might not be giving full application to the belt. Or it might be the belt is worn and stretched a bit. But you are well on your way to getting Lazarus fully resurected. We'll stay tuned.

So I was just out testing the PTO. It's electromagnetic and it is not engaging. The switch is a pull-on, push-off type thing. When I pull it on and get off the seat, the engine dies as it should, so it seems like I've done that part of the wiring correctly. I will verify once again that the wires going from the switch to the PTO clutch are correct and have a good connection. (I need to go find my automotive ramps so I can get underneath it).

For what other reasons would the PTO not work? Do they get 'worn out'? I can get the springs to compress a little bit when I squeeze it with my hand, so it's not that it's all rusted up. The owner's manual has a troubleshooting guide and there is a "Mower blades will not rotate" entry, but the solutions have to do with the mower deck (which is not on the tractor at the moment). The only mention of the PTO is that there could be an "obstruction in clutch mechanism". Seems like if there were a mouse in the clutch housing, I'd hear it crushing up the little guy.

On a happy note, the engine starts right up. :-)

If you are attempting to check the engagement of the PTO, with the engine not running, by moving the PTO switch to the engaged position, and then "feeling" to see if the clutch has engaged.......your results are not likely to be as you thought they might. There are several reasons why you need the engine running. One is available system voltage, the standing voltage of a battery might be lower than the minimum voltage at which the clutch can achieve engagement. Another reason is that the electromagnet acually has to physically move the clutch parts into the engaged position, the vibration and motion afforded by the running engine facilitates the movement of the parts.
It is likely that the clutch lining and drive faces are worn enough that the clutch now needs to have the air gap reset. But, if you are testing the engagement by any method, remember, there are safety interlocks that have to be satisfied in order to allow the clutch to be engaged, that means the seat must be occupied.

Yeah the engine was on. My comment about the engine dying when I'm out of the seat was just more of an observation.

Uhmm, riddle me this, the triangular shaped piece at the top of the clutch assembly isn't supposed to spin with the output shaft is it? Isn't that piece meant to be stationary and the shaft spins within it? I ask because I was driving it into the garage to put it away and I heard this terrible noise. I shut off the engine and looked underneath. The triangular piece had been spinning around and the noise I heard was the piece hitting against a stationary metal bracket thingy that the wires used to be attached to. The wires got ripped out and the connector destroyed. That triangular piece was not spinning earlier I don't think. I think that's where the wires attached to the clutch assembly.

I don't know what made it break away. The whole clutch assembly was a little sloppy before. Maybe it was already broken off and only the wires had been holding it in place, dunno.

The piece, whose name eludes me, is marked with a blue arrow in the picture.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:351020}}

Yep, you got a problem. The triangle piece you refer to is supposed to be held firmly from spinning by some type (it varies) "anti-rotation" bracket. Send me an e-mail and I'll send you a PDF manual on these clutches. Once you see the manual, you can decide what is missing, or bent, on your tractor that allowed this to happen. If that was not enough bad news, you will probably have to buy a new clutch now (but as you said, it might have been messed up before). I hope this is not Lazarus' death (final). Buying a clutch is not for the faint of heart, nor the faint of wallet. Expensive.

Thanks for the clutch manual mownie! One of the diagrams shows the slot in that plate where the antirotation bracket fits. That helps connect a few more dots for me. The next opportunity I get (which is to say nice weather and no higher priority tasks on my to do list), I'll remove the clutch and see if it's salvageable.

Hehe, here's my favorite quote from the manual (emphasis added): "Rotational Motion about the centerline of the shaft must be restricted, to prevent tearing the lead wires out, but not held rigidly."

Thanks again.

You are welcome. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

So I've tested the PTO clutch and it appears to be good. It passes the tests in the manual. I think the reason it was not engaging before was that the air gap was waaaay off. When I did test number 2 from the manual, it was 4 amps and I heard it engaging. So that's happy news.

My only issue now is, since the wires have been ripped apart because the bolt holding it on was too loose, I don't know which wires go where. When I performed the test, I just guessed but could it cause issues if I got those two wires crossed? You can see how they are both just little stubs now. =/
{{gwi:351021}}

Tractorcito, the 2 closest owner's manuals to the model you have (no manual listed for 917.251492) do not show any type of diode that is featured on some PTO clutch applications. Therefore, I do not think it will matter which wire you connect to the other wires on the chassis side harness. You can use your ohmeter and check to see it one of the 2 wires on the PTO clutch has continuity to the metal body of the clutch when you connect on ohmeter lead to a wire and touch the other lead to the metal part of the PTO. If one of those wires shows continuity to the metal of the PTO body. that wire must be connected to the grounded wire of the chassis side harness. If neither wire shows contiuity to the body of the PTO, it will not matter how you connect them to the chassis harness.

Ahh, ok understood. Thanks!

Well, both wires have continuity to the top triangular plate. That seems strange. But when I rewired it and pulled the PTO switch, I heard it engaging. So I suppose the worst that can happen if the wires are wrong is that it would blow the fuse huh? I'll reinstall the clutch, retest, and then install the mower deck and see how it goes.

Crash course: ALL electrical devices are powered by smoke contained within the wiring. Once the smoke escapes, well, it no longer works!

So guess what? I actually mowed the other day! It was only for about 15 minutes because my right rear tire won't hold air for any longer than that. I noticed that, in spite of having been doused with belt dressing, the drive belt still slips and it's worse after it gets warm. So I've ordered a new drive belt and a tube for the tire. Gosh, after that I think all that would remain is to rig some sort of cup holder. ;-)

Actually I will have to address the steering. It turns more sharply to the left than to the right. But that seems like a comparatively minor issue. The front wheel bearings will also need attention at some point.

Also, the Motion Control Lever seems to be out of adjustment. Don't know if the lever itself is bent or if it's simply an adjustment that needs to be done. But it still mostly works.

sigh

Well Lazarus does work, but I can't seem to mow very long before there is some issue or another.

The other day I got about 50 feet before the idler pulley fell off the mower deck. The bearing was seized. So I ordered another one. Problem solved.

Most recently I mowed for about 15 minutes, my idler pulley working wonderfully, and then the mower deck stopped. I've figured out that whenever I engage the PTO clutch, the fuse blows. There is apparently a short somewhere. I'll have to troubleshoot that. Maybe an exposed wire that has vibrated into just the right position to short out. Any time-saving advice would be great. :-)

Until next time...