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Fruit & Orchards

Confused about grape vine spraying

DandyLioness (CA 9, SZ 14)

9 years ago

I'm getting overwhelmed trying to figure this out on my own. I inherited vines with the house and I've pretty much neglected them until now. Despite that, they've produced some crop every year. But a couple get riddled with white flies and possibly mildew (not sir wig it QS just white fly damage). So should I wait and see if the mildew is an issue in my area or should I take preventative action? And if so, what exactly should I spray with?

Also, should I spray insecticidal soap regularly for the white flies? If I spray that, at what interval do I spray the mildew prevention stuff?

Sigh..someone please just hold my hand through this and give me a clear cut plan to follow. And of course, if things go haywire I will heck back with you all :)

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Comments (4)

Suzi AKA DesertDance So CA Zone 9b
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
If you are in zone 9, it probably gets pretty hot where you are. As long as it's dry, windy heat, you shouldn't have a mildew problem, but if it's humid, yes. Mildew. Powdery Mildew happens in humidity. If it's Powdery Mildew, use Immunox Liquid followed up every 10 days or so by Neem Oil. Myclobutanil from Home Depot in the form of Immunox, labeled for lawn fungus.When you spray with Neem, do it late in the day because the hot sun and oil don't mix well. Sunburn could occur. Not sure about white flies. Nothing much likes soap.
DandyLioness (CA 9, SZ 14)
Original Author
9 years ago
That's good to know about the mildew! I guess what I've been seeing is whitefly damage. I think I will start spraying insecticidal soap now that there are only a few leaves and then continue regularly if the whiteflies persist. Hopefully that will do the trick.
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Actually, I suspect it's powdery mildew or downy mildew. Black rot is just that, the entire fruit rots, dies, and shrivels away, often falling off. With the mildews, the skin is affected, but continues to live, with large gray-brown patches -- it can cover the entire grape, or only one side or part of it. The fruit under the skin continues to develop normally, but obviously, not good to eat like that. Any of the fungicides mentioned above will work. Another good one is Bayleton. I don't know if it's technically labeled from grapes. I bought 3 quarts of it in ready to spray, hose end type sprayers on clearance at Lowe's last year in the spring for $1.25 a bottle. It was sold and labeled as "Lawn Disease Control," but I used it on summer and winter squash, tomatoes, grapes, peaches, and also on my lilacs, phlox, and monarada, and it did an absolutely fantastic job of keeping them clean and green all summer, no disease problems at all. If I ever found more of it at that price, I'd snatch it up in a minute.
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That is black rot. It takes over grapes in many parts of the US after 3-5 years so it fits your situation exactly. There are several sprays that are effective on it. For organic growing about all that works is copper. If you are not organic you can use Immunox or mancozeb. Even though some things will work on it, the majority of the disease sprays will do little or nothing so you need to spray something that is known to work for it. Scott
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I used to get control of that and all other important fungal issues with grapes with Immunox as a single spray about 10-14 days after last apples lose petals of flowers. I now have a variety where that timing or number doesn't work and I intend to follow up with one more spray next year 10-14 days later still. Or I might try just that subsequent spray to find out if it was only a matter of timing for this variety. I liked the previous timing because I'm spraying then anyway. I'm confident that Funginex (myclobutanil) is your best bet as a compound to control bunch rot (or whatever rot) although I think it can also be done with the more persistent application of sulfur. It is a crop that is grown organically in the northeast by some commercial growers. The infection begins when the berries are very tiny. As they get larger the skin gets tougher and more resistant. Immunox can also rescue an infected crop, but can't erase the black spots.
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I'll make 2 guesses Frank, bordeaux mixture and Kocide 3000. The Kocide has the recommended rates on the label. The rate of either fungicide may well depend on the disease you interested in controlling and the plant's growth stage when the copper is being applied. Figure out if you have a disease problem first, then confirm which disease(s) you need to control, then look into whether or not a given copper based control agent will work to control your identified disease.
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fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX
9 years ago
Usually what attacks grapes is leaf hoppers and powdery mildew. I guess it could be white flies but I think it's more likely some type of leaf hopper.
DandyLioness (CA 9, SZ 14)
Original Author
9 years ago
When I shake the vines little white flies fly about, which is I'm thinking its white flies.

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