Yes, a dwarfing affect on the tree above ground, which, the tree ill constantly fight to gain proper size, and the roots will still try to expand wider then the drip line. Dwarfing rootstocks make the job easier. Its easier to grow a tree that maxes out at 6 - 8 feet in a pot, then a tree that wants to grow to 12 - 15+ (semi dwarf). Its the same as houseplants. Some even "like to be pot bound" like some ficus, but even then, if lef in a pot too small, it will suffer eventually. Ficus tend to break pots from my experience leaving them. I never said you CANT grow anything other then dwarf trees in pots, its just making LESS WORK for yourself, and trying to make the trees last as long as possible without stress. Smaller tree = smaller root system = easier to grow in pots

spedigrees: Limestone varies in magnesium content. If you go to your local agricultural store--I am not sure what you have up there--and ask for “high mag limestone“--crushed or pulverized--they should be able to direct you. The analysis is always posted on the bag. Dolomitic limestone is generally “high-mag,” but perhaps other types of limestone have a high magnesium content. Our soils here in the northern Shenandoah Valley are very high in magnesium, and high mag limestone underlies a good portion of our soils, and high mag limestone is readily available. And, almost all the NS in this area look very nice, in spite of our hot, dry climate. As for soil acidity--that should not be a problem for Norway spruce, unless the soil is extremely acidic, maybe in the low 4’s. At my timberland, where the soils are a bit below 5, Norway spruce does very well. I am not sure what an optimum pH would be, and it would probably vary with soil type. Maybe somewhere in the 5.5 range is "safe." As for magnesium for Norway spruce--this has been fairly well documented. I titled my original post “a hypothesis,” but there is substantial evidence. A site factors study done at SUNY Syracuse some years ago now, noted that “at least 75 kg per hectare” is needed for good NS growth. Studies in Europe, where there has been extensive decline in NS forests, has shown that the acid rain causes a reduction in the availability of magnesium, and supplementing magnesium often solves the problem. And, I have made some personal observations--not scientific, and without all the facts--that magnesium supplementation can make a dramatic difference. But, the main effect of magnesium may not be in height growth, but in the fullness, density, and lushness of the foliage. I have seen many poor looking, thin foliaged NS trees growing reasonably fast in height. Also, the thin foliage on some Norway spruce trees has causes other than a lack of an optimum supply of magnesium. And, I know, some of that is genetic, and not correctable. As for your experiment: Yes, 5 years should be long enough to show some results, but no sooner. The limestone has to dissolve into the soil, get down to the roots, and, because NS hold their needles for several years, the "thickening" of the foliage may not be vis1ble for several years. BUT, and this is a big "but," the effect may not really show up on very young trees. It may help the growth rate, but as for foliage density, that is never really noticeable until trees are somewhat older and larger--maybe not until they are 20 feet tall or more will any difference be really clear. As for the growth rate: white pine usually starts growing faster than NS. How old are your trees? How tall? NS trees don't begin to grow fast until they are about 4.5 feet high, and that could be only after 6 to 8 years. At that point, they should "take off." On the best soils, and in the right climate, an average of 28 inches is possible, with some years the new shoots elongating up to 4 feet or more. But growth averaging 20 to 24 inches is good for many sites. Norway spruce and white pine, assuming equally good strains, should grow equally well over the first 50 years. The white pine up to about 18 years should outgrow the NS, but after that NS should catch up a bit. After 50 years NS should outgrow the white pine for some years. SUNY Syracuse did a growth curves study for NS, and found that for the first 60 years--after the trees reach 4.5 feet in height, there is no "curve" as such, but a straight line. White pine growth curves bend sharply over to the right after the first 18 years or so, and at 50 years the growth averages about 1 foot, while at the same age, NS trees can still be growing 28 inches per year. But this rate does begin to decline not too long after the 60-year mark. On the best sites both should eventually make 150 feet or more in forest stands. Open grown NS should make 120 feet or more on better sites. As for the blue spruce and magnesium, I really don't know. Tom may be right about this. --spruce

Hi Jon, By 'hostile', I suspect rhizo means to say that the environment that Meyer is in looks to be a bit dry - dry looking soil with no mulch to conserve water around the tree's roots, an enclosed environment and heat-reflective rock cover that further enhances/traps heat around your citrus... In this kind of an environment you definitely want to make sure your citrus is getting sufficient hydration (in addition to John's good comment above of making sure your soil has the appropriate pH so that nutrients are optimally absorbed). Can you give us a little more information about: 1) Your current day and night temperatures? Do you have dryign winds? 2) Watering frequency and amount at each application? How long does it take for the water to drain? 3) What prior months did you applied fertilizer? In answer to your question about what is root flare, take a look at the following photo of one of my Meyers and how it is planted. At the interface between the soil and the tree's trunk, you'll see the beginnings of the roots (this is the root flare) as they start to 'flare' out into the surrounding soil. You want these exposed to make sure the tree isn't planted too deeply so that it gets proper gas/oxygen exchange and won't promote rot. You'll also notice that my tree is mounded and mulched higher than the native soil level so that the tree drains well. Best of luck! Tim

You've got your Key Lime in a good spot, nice and warm. I would maybe consider painting the trunk the 1/2 strength flat white latex paint (1/2 paint 1/2 water) to prevent sunburn. Or use white trunk wrap. And, if your young tree is getting full afternoon sun, you'll probably want to provide some shade. A bit "too much of a good thing" in your area for young citrus. And, I would definitely consider mulching your tree wells to help preserve soil moisture. If your leaves are cupping, and the soil is dried out, then water more. I use one of those inexpensive cheap green plastic colored plant stakes you can get at Home Depot/Lowes to check my citrus trees. If I can push it into the ground easily about 18" down, I know the soil is moist enough. And you can certainly try a cup of fertilizer to help green things up in the spring. How frequently are you fertilizing? You should be fertilizing every 2 to 3 months through the growing season (Feb/March through Sept/Oct depending on when things start to get cold there - you don't want flush occurring if you're going to have threats of frost). Your product is a good one, frequently recommended and used in your area, and formulated specifically for your area. Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: U of AZ Coop Extention: Citrus Supplment