Daisey, thinking that you are about the same as a US Z8, if they were in the ground without protection over winter they are most likely dead. Sometime in the next 4-5 weeks, if alive, they would begin to show little bits of green at the old leaf axils - new growth beginning. Mine in my similar climate will usually endure about 5 years average on my semi protected (partly glassed) porch before the temperature drops just low enough to wipe them out, even though I cover them with old tablecloths in the worst weather....I would surely lose them to a few nights below 28F (-2.2C?) in the ground. We had a rough winter, my own in 24" pots, semi protected, are showing no signs of life here either, I'm almost certain I've lost them this year. Giving the stems a pinch between fingers reveals firm tissue closer to the soil line (soft further up) but I'm not holding out much hope and expect to be shopping for replacements.

Hi Piksi, About giving the Pelargonium a bath--rinse with a water that is at least room temp or slightly warmer. After you've rinsed off all the dirt, then just prepare a bath using a little lysol or bleach--1/2 teaspon or so to a quart of (at least) room temp. water. The idea is to cleanse the plant of anything that might be alive (fungi included); gently rub the stems and roots clean. Lay out on a paper towel and check the roots (like Diane suggested). Trim the plant real good. You can trim the roots--especially if you are trimming the top of the plant. This would be a good time to take your cuttings--(after a bath). If there aren't many roots--trim just a tiny bit. If the roots look real bad--you might as well take as many cuttings as you can and through the plant out--maybe trying to save the plant may give you some experience--that's mostly how I learn. To plant a cutting--trim to a node, a 2" cutting. Be sure to keep track of which end is the 'down' end, as the down end is what gets stuck into the soil mix. Not everyone will allow the cutting to callus--but you can let the piece of cutting to sit for up to 24 hours to form a callus where it has been cut. If you allow your cutting to callus, you won't need to use a rooting compound (although it won't hurt if you do). If you don't let your cutting to callus, then you will be on the safe side if you dip your 'down' end of cutting in some rooting compound. Fungi is the killer you want your cutting not to get. Set your cutting into your soil or soiless mix. Only about a half inch or so needs to be above the soil/mix. What is important is that whatever you use, it needs to be sterile. Some people like to use sand because it doesn't seem to get fungi as easily. I don't like sand--that's just me. I like to use coarse Vermiculite and coarse Perlite--about equal parts. You may not be able to find the coarse varieties--that's ok. I use it because there isn't so much of the stuff that drifts in the air while I'm working with it and because it provides an airier mix. I like to dampen the mix before I plant the cutting--that way it's just right. If you are keeping your soil/mix just damp, you won't need a drain hole in your container--but I like to poke tiny, needle size holes in the sides of my styrofoam cups. It's not altogether necessary--I do that because that way I feel safer that the soil isn't staying too damp. A small container is good, like a 3 oz styrofoam cup. It is very important that the cutting get very good air circulation and be kept just a little damp--not wet. The cutting needs a warm environment and sunlight--but not direct sunlight. A bright window that has a sheer curtain is good. This time of year would be too cold to put a cutting in the garage or outside--that's because the cutting needs a soil that is warm enough. Because a damp, warm soil is just the place a fungi can grow well, you want to be sure to not be touching your soil or cutting. I use a clean toothpick to poke in the dirt if I want to check the dampness of the soil/mix. There don't need to be any leaves on a cutting, but it's best that if there are leaves--they should be few (or one) that are young leaves. Several cuttings can be taken from the same stem. If your Pelargonium has a fighting chance, taking a cutting can't hurt--in fact, it may help the plant if it gets trimmed. I'll be thinking of you as I take my cuttings. Pat

Tahota, in the east we get a picture of you in the west as living in a more moisture laden part of the country. Along with British Columbia, you live in the banana belt where winter temperatures are not hard to take. The storage of geraniums in the manner you describe is very much the way to keep them safe and secure until we bring them out for re-invigorating. You should recognize that the sun at this time of season is almost at its lowest....December 21..the winter solstace being the shortest day of the year...not many plants would be suggested to do well in this kind of sun. So we store the geranium until the sun values return ....and by mid February, those values return sufficiently to begin the process of re-invigorating. One note of caution: Garden Grammie may indeed have her plants come back --as she points out---sometimes...in the bag method. But I think Grammie you will have a much better return if you don't tie the bag shut....leave it open...let the air circulate. The plant in the bag has moisture in it...and the interior of the bag then restricts the moisture to leave the bag...thus setting up mildew and/or mold. The bag method is a good way to store pels and catch the debris from the plant's drying. Tahota, to use the method you describe...the hanging upside down...you MUST have a place ...generally in the basement..that is dry, cool (35 to 50 fahrenheit) and dark. No moisture should reach the plant...so don't sprinkle.... no heat should reach the plant....cool keeps mildew and mold at bay with the loss of moisture....and dark so light doesn't initiate growth. The coolness must be in the range...35 to 50...otherwise its either too cold below it, or too warm above it. If you can guarantee your plant that kind of environment, then your plants WILL return when you begin the process....in February. The plant, nung up ...upside down...easy to tie the roots to something above it...will dry out..completely. It will drop much debris....so you might put a plastic sheet below it to catch the debris. Round about the ides of February, we bring the plant out...remove any and all old leaves, broken stems, examine the roots, tear them apart...so they can take up nourishment easy. Cut the plant back by ...1/3.....1/2 .....as you choose. Into a pot of 6"....8"....10"....again you choose according to the size of the plant...place some shards into the bottom of the pot..to keep the soil UP away from the drainage holes. Your plant MUsT DRAIN. Fresh potting soil is put in, make a hole in the center and put your plant in...firm it up with fingers. To improve drainage, you may wish to mix the potting soil with sand and/or peat moss. Water it until drainage is seen exited out the bottom. Let it drain fully. Then take it to the best window you have...west, south or east will do fine...north is not what you want. DO NOT water again until new leaves appear. It'll be no time at all. Then water again til drainage is seen in the saucer below....and dump the excess within 1/2 hour. As the plant begins to add foliage, you can begin to feed it...20/20/20...1/4...1/2 rate. Always, water the plant first before feeding. Never feed a dry plant. Each day or so, turn the plant 1/4 turn to ensure all parts of the plant receives ample amounts of sun. In about 4 to 6 weeks, you should see quite a bit of new foliage....new flower buds will follow in about 6..7..weeks...depending on the amount of sun your plant receives. As the foliage increases, about every 3rd watering, increase the rate of fertilizer. Use overnighted water to gain room temperature and lose of the fluorine in it. Always water til drainage...and dump the excess. Let it dry down some between waterings. Don't overwater....much better to be dry than to be wet. Using this method, I guarantee..if you can give the plant as I have suggested, you will have 100 percent recovery. maybe, better than ever. This method can guarantee you never having to buy another pelargonium. The pel must not be allowed to be touched by frost...so before that happens, do remove the plant to the cool room. You needn't shake off all the soil at this time, it will dry up and you can flick it off with your fingers when you cut it back in February. The February date is not compulsory...it depends on just what kind of weather the PNW gets.....so you can begin a little later. It hardly serves the purpose to start earlier. The sun values are not up to specs much before that time...and its the sun that determines the success...or failure of this method.

O Frozebudd...I never, ever attempt to poke anything in the ground without making some sort of slit or pilot hole (a crocus auger is great for that sort of thing). I learned my lesson in a very brutal accident involving a slightly brittle bamboo cane and a dahlia bed. I was leaning all my weight on the cane when the whole thing shattered. Because of (not wanting to crush) the dahlias, I managed to hurl myself sideways...but not before I stabbed the cane into my right breast (there is a circular scar to this day) and worse, I landed up against the breeze-block coldframe, knocking out my 2 front teeth in the process. As I lay there, bleeding and shocked, wondering why I was not unconscious, waking up to the loving care of...someone, anyone, I had to settle for the anxious sheepdog, doing her best to stem the blood. Staggered home in shock - I was at the allotment)...beginning the long slow process towards a dental plate. I have posted this tale of woe on here before.