That'd be essentially sanding with a very high grit--can't see it knocking the sheen back in a nice way, just scratching it. I've certainly sanded finished wood with 400 grit sandpaper, and I wouldn't want that finished result.

Start with, what's the finish on the cabinets? French polishing shellac is a different animal than uglying up polyurethane. Read the disclaimers on all of the reality shows, "Stunts performed by experts or stupid people. Don't try this at home.".

My sources have been Fine Woodworking and professional woodworkers -- but I am well aware that I am neither professional nor fine. I've seen too many items with supposed original matte finishes that are cloudy, and that is most certainly NOT what I want. Sadly, the cabinets are not available in a matte finish, but such is life. Thanks for the replies.

Steel wool does have a tendency to scratch the finish and leave a hazy/cloudy look. Besides the particles rust, and you never really get rid of all of them.

I would try 600 wet sandpaper as the first option, (on the back of a door of course)

I have done this. It's not hard if you know what you are doing. Scuffed it with a scotch bright pad then shot a coat of clear matt finish over it. Actually a lot of matt finishes will have gloss under then it gives more depth to the finish. But and it's a big BUT you have to know what you're doing. What material is on there and what material you will use over it. There are compatible issues, adhesion issues and so on.

jdesign, I've often heard of a matte finish applied over gloss, especially on hardwood floors, and I've wondered about putting a matte finish on top of the existing finish. So you scuffed the surface to improve adhesion?

cookncarpenter, I'll experiment with the 600 wet sandpaper on a small door sample that I have...even after this, I would most definitely do it on a hidden interior surface of the actual cabinet first.

I can help with the matte finish. It's amazingly easy.

Get yourself a can of Exterior, Flat DARK paint base. i.e the can they squirt the color into. Sometimes, as in BM, it's listed as a 4 or a 5. Dark paint base goes on white (scary white) and dries so matte you cannot tell it's there. I've used it on all kinds of finishes for that purpose. In particular, doors I've stripped to bare wood and wanted to seal them but keep them that way. You can also put this on more evenly than you'd abrade the doors.

I wouldn't use 600 grit if you are going to put a finish over it. That's too fine for the top coat to bite to. It would be right to use it as part of a rubbed out and buffed finish on what you have there but I'm not sure how good the results wold be. It would probably look cloudy like mentioned above. Matt solid surface is done like that with high grit micron paper. Again you have to know what is on there. If your finish is too soft you will just create a mess. Putting a flat paint base is kind of like what I've done but what I used is not so DIY it's a 2k poly Italian coating. What would concern me about something like a flat paint base is durability. The original coating would still be under it might it might show scuffs and marks. Don't know never used that.

Yes, I did this with cabinets I finished myself. I stupidly did not stir the poly, and ended up with high gloss cabs. Eep!

I knocked it down with 0000 steel wool, which didn't take that much effort, but had to be careful to be consistent. I am not thrilled with the final product and would never choose to do it again. Lesson learned.

CEFreeman, can you post an example of your method? That sounds really interesting!

scrappy2, there's really not much to show. Any cell phone pic I'd post would look like an unfinished door.

My stuff was stripped before I applied the paint base. I used exterior so it had all the weather and UV protection elements in it. Just figured it couldn't hurt. I did use latex, because it was inside. I'm thinking you could use a tougher, oil base for cabinets that get a lot of action.

Now, I did do a credenza, which I sold. I scuffed the finish with a 220 sanding block, being careful to get into detail with an emery board. I then applied the paint base and boom. No shine. Smooooooth and beautiful. 2 coats. Water proof against glass condensation, etc.

My person is still thrilled with it a year+ and I'm using it all the time.

I also used it to glue chipping paint down without it looking gummy. Other top coats (even DecoArt's supposedly matte finish) leave a discernible shine. Haven't tried Modern Masters, when my paint base is so inexpensive. Anyway, the chips glue down without any hint of glue, or looking top coated. I don't know how to explain how it Doesn't look top coated!

I'm considering scuffing (or even sanding hard) the unfinished cherry face frame and drawer fronts I got from The Cabinet Joint. I love them, but I polyacryliced them (not polyurethane!) and even the satin is just too shiny. I'm eyeing my can of paint base for them instead.

very cool CEFreeman. So in the OP's case would you scuff the surface and then use the paint base over it? This sounds like it might get a more reliable finish. I don't think the OP wants to sand down to the surface.

Can you post the exact matte bases that you have used? I looked online but there seem to be many choices.

thanks!

I used a synthetic steel wool pad (gray 3M pad) on a random-orbital sander to take the gloss off of a table top. But it was oil varnish, not poly. Poly has a shape of molecule that is not compatible with any further surface treatment, which is why it goes hazy if abraded; the molecules tear microscopically leaving a fuzzy micro-texture, whereas other resins tear off cleanly.
The 3M pad must be well-used; a brand new one is too abrasive, and risks real damage.
There are kits sold to piano techs for touching up "German polyester" black finishes to restore the satin appearance. The satin finish on some pianos looks directionally striated, like brushed metal. I believe the technique has as much to do with that as the tool.
Casey

Thank you all for the great information!

CEFreeman, I remember your previous mentions of using the exterior, flat cark paint base and was hoping you would join in here -- I'll test that on some of the samples I've collected...another reaon why I never throw anything away!

Sombreuil, I'm not certain of the type finish, but if I can't get a definite answer I would test before moving ahead.