The outdoor hose problem
11 years ago
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- 11 years ago
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Water Hammer problem from hose water timer
Comments (4)A water hammer is especially likely when there's a long column of water behind a dead end valve, so the long run to a yard faucet probably qualifies because there is all that water trying to come to a sudden stop. I suspect your problem is that you're essentially slamming four faucets closed at once, which is almost certain to hammer. Consider getting away from all four valve closing together and use multiple single timers set to different times, which would result in a much smaller flow coming to a sudden stop. I would definitely try letting it shut down with only one hose and see if it hammers. I suspect it will not....See Moreplease recommend outdoor hose bib
Comments (8)Thank you for the kind respones. "Per code there should be a line stop valve inside the house before the line drops into the vented crawl space. In winter the line stop is closed and the hose bibb is left open so that if any water should happen to leak past the line stop it could still drain out through the hose bibb. Care should be taken to insure that the horizontal line in the crawl space is properly supported by pipe hangers to insure it will maintain a downward pitch and not sag." Thanks for pointing me in the right direction Lazypup, your very knowledgable. I am young and inexperienced but trying to do the best i can. This is my Mom's home and she is a parapalegic, so I try to fix what I can for her and if I can't do it I make sure she don't get ripped off by repairmen since she can't even acess the areas the work is in. I don't even think the plumbing meets code. It's over a hundred year old house with many additions and jerry-rigged workmanship. Had to insulate the pipes to stop them from freezing a few winters ago, but the last 2 winters where very mild. Majority of the plumbing is under the house in the crawl space. The copper pipes, pvc, and ducting are all barely hanging to the floor joists with rusty wire and nails. I spent countless days with a full repirator breathing mask clean this crawl space out. It was filled with trash, car parts, old waste building materials, and a bunch of mold rotted fiberglass insulation. It was a real pain, especially consider I had to crawl through holes at points only 2' x 2' wide! I think the previous occupants used the crawl space as a free landfill. The only 2 ways to shut off the water is either at the street or in the crawl space where the main water line comes out of the ground vertically rising to the plumbing in the floor joists. There is a very old gate valve in this main line and I have to crawl through 2 different holes in the labryinth that is my crawl space to the deepest part to shut off the water which is a big hassel. Whereas the pipe to the faucet is more easily acessible with minimal crawling so it would be nice to have a shut off valve prior to the outside bib. I like the idea of ball valves, thanks Kisu. I should probably have the gate valve at the main water line replaced with a ball valve as well. I want to have an encapsulated crawl space eventually, but I got huge water issues with runoff, yard grade, gutters, downspouts, leaky faucet, ect. Until i take care of exterior water issues there is really no point to addressing water and moisture problems in the crawl space. So that is why the crawl space is vented for now, but I digress off topic. "First off, there is no such thing as a "Freeze Proof hose bibb". They do make "Frost proof hose bibbs" which are a type of hydrant valve where the actual valving action takes place inside the house in the heated space but even that would not work in this situation." Thanks for setting me straight Lazypup. The frost proof faucet wouldn't work in this situation because the faucet's valve could be comprimsed being at relativly the same temp as outside in winter. So i should just have a traditional sillock bib on the exterior and have a ball valve in the interior prior to the bib. When winter comes close the ball valve and open the hose bibe to let the water drain out inbetween the stop valve and hose bib. Insulate the water lines in the crawl space and hope for no subzero temps this winter. Maybe I could have all this work done by winter and have the crawl space enclosed, but it doesn't seem likely. Sorry about being longwinded but the added explaination may help you guys help me understand the best potential solution....See MoreBest Outdoor Water Timer for Garden Hoses
Comments (5)I think I've used almost every kind. I keep one on a drip line to my birdbaths year round, just removing them when the temps go below freezing so I can turn the faucet off. I have had good luck with the Melnor, which is what I've had most recently. The one i have now has lasted well and I have not had to replace the batteries for over a year, even tho' it turns on 4 times a day, every day. The trick I finally learned, after blowing through batteries, is I now have a plastic tub/bucket placed upside down over the timer (it's large enough to fit over the faucet handle and timer) to protect it from the rain. It's made such a difference in the longevity of the batteries. It's easy to set and easy to override if you want to do something manually. I have the kind that also has an outlet that isn't controlled by the timer so I can put a hose on it and use it without disturbing the timer: my timer...See MoreOutdoor faucet problems - flat hose and no water
Comments (4)Ok that worked for the one that had no water flowing. Big relief that it was the hose and not the plumbing. On the other one, I have tried two hoses and both flatten when the water is off. But water flows fine when on. Any idea what would cause this?...See More- 11 years ago
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