As for getting your money refunded from PB, do adopt a calm and reasonable tone. Not that you wouldn't, but I've been both the incensed customer and the nice, but persistent, one and the latter usually gets what they want while remaining emotionally intact.

Your local glass shop will make you a custom mirror any size/thickness you want, including the width of the bevel. You can have it 1) framed, 2) glued to the wall, 3) attached by J channels. If I were you at this point, and I'm not, I'd go with 3) and move on.

Going through a glass shop, I'd shoot for this look, with double sconces mounted on the mirror. The frame has just a simple bead around the mirror. It'd be best to get that light switch changed to the one badgergirl posted.

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I checked with our local glass/mirror shop today, and to make a 1" beveled mirror in a 56"x30" size would be $215. Not bad at all! I am assuming unframed, and then mounting sconces above them. If we mounted sconces directly onto the mirror, then it would need to go quite a bit higher. Also not sure how much our contractor would charge to put the sconces onto the mirror itself...

If doing a framed one...anybody know anything about this company?

http://www.mirrormate.com/shop-by-color/white/chelsea-classic-white.html

I don't know anything about them but I saw this on their FAQ page.

Q: Will MirrorMate frames work on beveled mirrors?

A: Yes, but your bevel must be less than 1" wide. We also recommend selecting a frame that is 3” wide or more for beveled mirrors. If you are still uncertain, feel free to give us a call.

When I was doing my bathroom remodel I got some samples from MirrorMate. It's a neat concept for a retrofit, but I think I'd either start with a framed mirror or do unframed.

Also, depends on what kind of frame you plan to have. If painted (e.g., white or black, etc.) you should be okay. They seem to use the same kind of wood-photo stained frames that some internet frame stores use. When you get a mirror that big (mine is 48 x 30), that's around 3" wide, you really start seeing the repeats in the pattern and it looks FAKE. I had gotten a sample of "Canadian walnut" and thought it would be fine. In a big old frame, it was horrible. That sucker will be hanging out on my garage wall for eternity.

So I made the pilgrimage to Pottery Barn today, and they didn't even ask me anything, they just refunded me. Haha! So I completely stressed about that for nothing. So now we are not tied to PB in any way. Ready to move forward with something custom! So now just need to decide framed or frameless, and dimensions. And sconces on it versus over it. So still, so many decisions. :(

Why do the sconces on the mirror? We have 8' ceilings. So that would mean the mirror would be extending way up. It would be like a giant square. I was assuming 30" high when I got my quote. Or are you thinking of making the mirror line up at the top with the door frame? And then keeping the sconces at the level they are at now?

In terms of width, if we do frameless, should we span the whole length of the vanity (60") with a cutout for the light switch (which we would need even if we move the switch over)? Or should we do 58" which would put it about an inch away from the vanity end at either side? And if we do framed, do we place the bottom up above the light switch, and then do 60" wide?

We are so close here, people! (I love you all!)

Usually the vanity isn't on the same wall as a door, so it may have some influence on the lights. I didn't want you squashing the mirror too much to make room for lights.

I would decide what look you like. I looked at Houzz pics and decided I liked the narrower mirrors with 60" vanities. They seemed a little more modern and a little different. I would size it by making sure you have full view when standing at the sink. If you use a frame, keep it narrow. I like a little space on the sides.

You could do a few mock-ups and post them, but I think you need to step back a little so we can see if the door matters.

When you say "narrower mirrors", what do you mean? Two mirrors?

Got the photoshop pic of the Astor mirror in our bathroom -- finally! This is a really rough picture. But basically, if this mirror were sitting on top of our backsplash, it would come up to 2" below our door frame. Thoughts??

That image in the mirror, by the way, is not our bathroom. That's from the PB site. Our newly tiled shower would be showing in there. :)

As I said before, the light from side sconces is infinitely superior to overhead. It is nothing to have the mirror place cut out holes for the sconces and then you just mount the sconces same as always but on the mirror. They should come out and do a site measure. If you are worried about the back of the fixture showing in the mirror just do a test first by holding it against the mirror. I would line up the top of the mirror with the door frame, but it likely won't matter if it is slightly lower.

The mirror you show above is lovely, but what about the light switch?

I agree with daisychain01. I wouldn't place the mirror right on the backsplash but move it up. But that places the light fixtures too high (they're too high even with the mirror all the way down) so you'd have to put them in the mirror. Make sure to check how they look against the mirror. Sometimes the insides of the lights show and it doesn't look very good. I really hate to say this, I love the mirror but I think it's too big. Certainly too tall if you don't want to put the light in the mirror. You can get away with the width, if you can sort out the light switch, but not the height.

I'd get a custom mirror made, not as tall (30") and slightly narrower (maybe just an inch or two on each side). Then the light fixtures could go overhead and look proportional to the mirror. Maybe they could even do that double bevel.

It's hard to see but I think the beveled frame is angled, so it can't sit on the backsplash. Yes, and it's too big and square. I think you can place the mirror so it clears the switch and still go to 30" with or without mounting the lights on the mirror. One of the advantages of lights on the mirror is it bounces more light around the room. But whichever way you decide, I'd do the sleeker style of bar lights. I think the horizontal Mercer sconces have a Depression era look that doesn't fit with a modern vanity and mosaic backsplash. I noticed on Lightingdirect.com that there's a filter to select full backplate for some bath lights, so I think that's what you need when mounting lights so the opening doesn't reflect in the mirror.

Ok. Here is what we're planning to do at this point, unless you all think something is way off in this plan. We are going to do a custom beveled mirror, 56" wide by 34" high. We will mount double sconces above each sink, above the mirror. Although we'd like to do side sconces, there is such a small amount of room on the left side of the vanity (the sink is so close to the wall), that placing a sconce on that side would result in the person at that sink looking almost right at the sconce. It might be superior to overhead lighting, but we lived with overhead lighting for years before, and I never thought I looked *too* hideous, haha.

At any rate, this size mirror will result in it floating on the wall 2" above the backsplash, leave 2" of wall on either side of the mirror from the sides of the vanity, and the top of the mirror will sit 76" from the floor and about 7.5" below the door frame. The double sconces will go above the mirror, and be between the top of the mirror and the door frame.

We will still move the light switch to the right to be narrower.

We will do the most upscale looking mirror that we can, based on the shop's options.

Does this all sound good????

I noticed that the Sussex sconces only take 40 watt bulbs, but the Hayden and Mercer sconces take 60 watt bulbs. So I think Hayden is the way to go, so we can have as much light as we can.

I think we cross-posted, unless you're a very fast typer!

I don't see anything wrong with your plan. If you scroll up to the stained wood vanity and mirror photo, you can see it's about 2" all around.

I think the Hayden sconces are better because they're 16" vs. 19" for the Sussex. Looks like they'll be about the length of your sink, which feels about right. Need I say mock it up?

I feel like we have a pretty good idea of what a mirror that size is going to look like at this point. It's basically the same as the previous mock-up that we did, just slightly narrower and 2" shorter. We feel good about this, and I just want to order it today and be done!! So tired of thinking about this!!

Three cheers for the Hayden. Only thing is, our towel bar, towel ring, double hooks, and tp holder are all from the Mercer line. Is it okay to have the sconces be different?

Although at $189 a pop, maybe we should just go to Lowe's and find sconces there! Jeez louise!

Ok, they are expensive there too, never mind.

Can't help with the price, but I think they all look nice together.

I can offer my own strategy for justification of overspending. I always figure out how much I'm paying and then divide that by how many years use I will get out of it (or wears, or months, etc.). For example, when I wanted a very expensive down coat, I told myself I would have it for 10 years and so really it was only $50 a year. My own version of creative accounting :)

I think you'll be fine mixing those sconces with your other accessories.

Daisychain01, that's what I do too. I figure cost per use. For example I spend a lot on my eyeglasses, I wear them all the time.

I have the Hayden towel bar, etc. in chrome. My vanity lights are Hinkley, also chrome, but slightly different styling. Still compatible and work beautifully together. I have above-the-mirror, downward-facing lights and they provide a beautiful light, no harsh shadows. My 5-light fixture has 40-watt bulbs, although they can take more wattage. 200 watts fills my bathroom where I have no other source of light.

You are smart to get a custom mirror. :)

Would this be better at 13 1/2"? I ordered my lights and towels bars through Lightingdirect. They're fast and have great customer service. Coupon codes are available online too.

Minka Lavery bar light

Jenn Cassie, don't know where you live, but do you have any good local lighting stores? I was surprised that mine had the exact same "discounted" prices as Lamps Plus.

Whoa, those Minka lights are soooo much cheaper! Total cost of $170 compared to $452 for the Haydens!

I checked our local lighting store and they didn't really have anything the right size/style. So I think we're down to the Minka or the PB Hayden.

Our Lamps Plus doesn't have much of a bath lighting section. Do you have a Fergusons nearby? They can advise you on what size bath bar you need. Do you have an overhead light for the shower area?

I wanted to mock up the two sizes and I just happen to have a 13 1/2" and a 16 1/2" lumber scrap! Ha! They're 1 1/2" square so I doubled them up--the glass is 3" on the Minka. While the 13" looks fine, the 16" seems a tad better. I'd be hard pressed to pay the extra money, but you don't want to come this far.

may_flowers, you are like my guardian angel! I cannot believe you mocked these up -- thank you!!

No Fergusons here. We only have one small local biz store that sells lights, as far as I know. We do have an overhead light as well, yep.

Any opinion on this one?

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Cardine-2-light-Chrome-Vanity/7967056/product.html?refccid=SVKTVLLEYEXZTICLC2KV63WX2U&searchidx=93

Oops, never mind, they're too tall. :)

RH Sutton double sconces are $350 with shipping. 15" L and 60 watts.

I noticed you don't have an electric outlet by the right sink, which is where you'll want to plug in a blow dryer.

I'll check out the other sconces, thank you! My husband actually still prefers the style of the Mercer horizontal, so we'll see. I'm not worried about the other outlet. I've managed for years without one there. I barely ever dry my hair anyway. :)

Question: would it be better to actually move the light switch over the other way and then cut a hole for it into the mirror, and then have the mirror span all the way across the vanity width (60")?

Oh no, I fear you've all given up on me. :(

I don't think that's the case. There's just really nothing else to add. I think every option has been offered. It's your decision. I don't think you can go wrong with the advice you've been given :)

Just wondering if anybody has any advice on my final question about the length of the mirror (56" vs. 60") (see my last comment).

I would do 56" since it's not sitting on the back splash. I wouldn't want a light switch in the mirror. I've only seen outlets in mirrors, and it'd always have fingerprints around the switch.

Can you go a little shorter on the mirror and expand your lighting options? I don't think the Mercer horizontal works with your other stuff. Not fond of those clam shell shades when there's so many pretty lights out there. They're too period specific, like they belong in an old-fashioned washroom with a big porcelain sink and a rubber stopper on a chain. It's not working with mosaics and beveled mirrors.

Good morning Jenn, I just checked in on your posts to see how you are progressing on your bath. I think using a single large mirror is a good decision. I would not want the light switch mounted in the mirror. Even if you go with the 56" mirror, I would change out the light switch to the one I posted earlier. It would be less noticeable .

I agree with Mayflowers that you should reconsider the clam shell light fixture. I think you countertop and mosaic call for something a little dressier. How about something like this one

It has positive reviews on line. It uses E26 base bulbs up to 100 watts. One reviewer said that 60 watt bulbs were more than adequate. It is 14.75 inches wide. The finish is listed as polished nickel. It is made by Minka. You might be able to find it at a local lighting store or it is available at several on line sources. It's a good price point too at just under $100 each

Minka Lavery 6732-1

I agree with both of you about replacing the clamshell light fixture with something more elegant. I do like the Minka and you could certainly get plenty of lumens with that. Again, I recommend you put them on a dimmer switch.

Thank you all! This helps tremendously. We already ordered the Mercer sconces, argh! I'll revisit that with my husband. I actually really like the ones that Badgergal posted. I'll post a picture for you all when it's finished! You folks have been my saving grace, thanks so much!

Ohhhh, that is perfect! So SO much better :) Are YOU thrilled to pieces with it? That's what matters.

YES, we love it!!

You nailed it! Thanks for posting the results!

Which lights did you end up with? They look like the Minka but they appear to be longer than 13". They're perfect!

They are the Minka! SO much cheaper, and so much better for the space!

Thank you to everyone for your help, this bathroom would not look like this without you all! :)

What a nice job. Thanks for updating us.

In case Jenn gets notifications on this thread, I have a similar problem. I wanted to use sconces but think there is not enough room so I think we might need to use a bathroom bar. How is the lighting you are receiving from the lighting? Are the shadows impossible? Troubling? Minimal? Thanks...should you see this.