System Restore on new windows 7 need password?
11 years ago
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- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
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System Restore doesn't work even in Safe Mode???
Comments (9)Here is the skinny, Get yourself to the site raven suggested. If you are infected with System Check it is important that you do not delete any files from your Temp folder or use any temp file cleaners. This is because when the infection is installed it will delete shortcuts found in various locations and store backups of them in the %Temp%\smtmp folder. It does this so that you when try to launch a program from your start menu, none of your shortcuts will appear and thus making you think that your computer has a serious problem. Therefore, you do not want to delete any of the files in your Temp folder as it will remove the backups that we will use later in the guide to restore your Windows Start Menu. To make matters worse, recent variants of this family have been know to install the TDSS or ZeroAccess rootkits as well. These rootkits will attempt to stop you from using security programs that may help you to remove this infection. Good luck. Joe...See MoreMaking a Windows 7 System Repair disk
Comments (19)That disc should work. You should actually put the disc in and boot from it to see if it boots and presents the recovery options that it's intended to provide. You can also use a Vista repair disc on a windows 7 machine and a Win 7 repair disc on a Vista machine. All the repair disc does is provide access to recovery options already present on the computer. Those are the same options available if you press the F8 Key during restart. So boot from the disc you made and you should see these options: Start up Repair System Restore System Image Recovery You would need to have a system image somewhere for that option to work. Windows Memory Diagnostic Command Prompt...See MoreTry to fix or just do a system restore?
Comments (13)yes I did the custom install, and now have FF7.01. Some of the toolbar settings have carried through, most have not...only 3 add ons came through. Do you know of any way to find the list of add ons that I had so I can just hopefully enable them? I sure hate the thought of going through all that again. Things like this are what makes me say I live in the land of "IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT." But that would be too easy wouldn't it. thanks for your guidance......See MoreNeed suggestions on new heat system.
Comments (18)I have a 2 storey house that is slightly smaller than yours - 2100 sq. ft. My heating bill for February will ablut $400; Location SE Wisconsin. Our winter weather is much more severe than yours. I heat with natural gas. I do not have an high efficiency furnace. The furnace was installed in the winter or 1975-76 and has a bonnet efficiency in the range of 65% to 75%. The fan control is adjusted to keep the fan running until the heat exchanger cools to the range of 95 F to 105 F. (If the fan shuts off too soon, heat stored in the heat exchanger is vented up the chimney. This is a small effect.) Running the fan longer combats stagnation; That's where hot air rises and the ceilings and upper floor gets hotter than the lower part of the downstairs rooms. There has been times in the coldest weather when I have set the fan to run continously. Many thermostats have a switch to do this. Depending on the layout of the house, ceiling fans may help move warm air down. My heat demand is affected by wind. (2 storeys are more affected by wind than single storey because the wind velocity is the lowest next to the ground and increases some with height.) Not knowing the construction of your wall, I can only tell you about factors that affect heat loss. Wind has two effects: It wipes away any heat that manages to conduct to the outside of the walls, but the larger factor is "windage". When the wall are not wind-proof, the wind moves air through the walls and literally blows the heat our of the house. Back when my house was built, we added a very inexpensive feature that the builder said was the most bang for the buck. We added a tar paper wrap over the entire house before the siding was put on. This was supposed to slow down wind infiltration and I believe it does. It cost only $50 to add this 35 year ago. Today, there are superior constructions. Changing from an oil heater to a gas fired one will not change the BTU requirement, only the cost of the fuel. However, if you move up to a high efficency furnace, you can make a savings without remodeling the house. Olser furnaces typically had bonnet efficiecies in the range of 65% to 70%; The remainder of the heat went up the chimney. Modern high efficiency furnaces can run between 90% to 95% efficient. The Chimney is not used. Combustion air and exhaust both are run in platic pipes through the side of the house. If you have a gas hot water heater, a liner must be put in the chimney for the heater alone. In cold weather, the heater alone is not enough to warm the chimney sufficently and the moisture in the exhaust from the water heater will condense inside the chimney. Combustion gases, noteably, CO2, disolves into the condensate forming an acid that will corrode an ordinary flue. If the walls of your house are not insulated, this will create a big loss. Adding insulation will have a large effect and in addition to reducing heat demand, it will also reduce air conditioning demand in summer. I could not get a good look at the roof in the picture, but it appears that you have good attic insulation. (Snow melts prematurely on the roof with poor attic insulation.) You have a lot of glass area and if the windows are not covered with storm windows, a savings will result if these are added. When storm windows are added, insure these have small vents at the bottom. Two cuts in the bottom of the storm frame having a width of a hack saw blade makes an adequate vent. Make the cuts about 1/4 inch deep. Space the cuts at about the 1/4 and 3/4 width of the window. The purpose of these vents is to permit moisture to escape and to drain any liquid that forms on the window sill. When vents are missing, frost and ice builds up on the inside of the storm glass and tends to wet the window framing. Adding storm doors to entryway doors help and will add life to the finish of the main doors. Modern doors are better insulated than construction of 30 years ago. A storm door has less effect on a well insulated main door than one that is not a good isulator. However, in my part of the world, just about every house has storm doors....See More- 11 years ago
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- 11 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 11 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
- 11 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 11 years agolast modified: 11 years agourlee thanked Richard (Vero Beach, Florida)
- 11 years ago
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