Depends on if the heaters are in series or if each serves only a portion of the house. Turn 50 gallon supply off and see if one or more facuets or fixtures still has pressure to hot side. If yes,you will have to replumb to eleminate 35 gallon tank. If no pressure at any hot outlet,you can proceed as planed. I would see how long it takes hot water to reach all facuets after bi-pass and before removing tank.

If you follow klem's advice and this works, I would also suggest that you remove the thin wall flex connectors and do a proper job of sweat soldering in new copper to connect the lines.

Also, make sure you legally cap your electric (it can't be covered over with cabinets or wall...)

Suggestion: Get rid of that saddle valve and install an inline fitting. Saddle valves only fail while you're away from home or on vacation. See Add A Line by Sioux Chief.

Hello aliceinwonderland!!!!!,have you ever seen a slicker spamm?

Thanks everyone. The heaters were in a series. It seemed the smaller tank was pre-heating water before sending it to the bigger tank. This condo is only used weekends during ski season and occasional summer weekends. We usually use the breaker to turn off the 50 gal hot water heater when we aren't there. We have been keeping the 35 gal heater on continuously because we didn't realize it was there. My husband capped the wires and then added a junction box (?) - an electrical metal box at the end. Can that exists in there? Going forward, this area would be accessed by pulling the range out and removing the board that is there. There is a another on/off valve behind the fridge for the ice maker water line and I do not anticipate that we will need to access this area often.

The saddle valve was added by the professional I hired to add a water line for the fridge.

And thanks again to everyone who took time to look and comment.

shellking-
Unfortunately, with saddle valves, having a professional do it doesn't mean you have seriously lowered the chances of a failure. They are easy to install, but that doesn't mean they are a good thing. Especially in a dwelling that is only occasionally used, it's still good advice to have a proper shutoff valve soldered in.

I've called a plumber to look at it (not just the handyman). Seems like advice is 50/50 on the use of saddle valves.

All you need to do is Google "saddle valve failure," to convince yourself that it's not 50/50...

Not picking sides but you should know how saddle valves work. Saddle valves puncture a hole in the pipe and then they put that clamp on the pipe where the hole is. All that has to fail is a gasket on the clamp. That is why they arent the best option. They work, but eventually the gasket will wear out.

The way you did the electrical is correct. Since the box is accessible but hidden by the range, I would put a note on the label in your electric panel saying "box behind range - keep off" so people know where that box is.

Glad you figured out how to bypass the heater!

Thanks for all the advice. A plumber came and replaced saddle valve with a copper T and also replaced the flex pipe with solid copper pipe. Now the on/off valve for water for ice maker is easily accessible in a nearby kitchen cabinet. Like the idea about labeling the electric panel. All done. Thanks!

That's great! I'm glad you didn't feel too picked on about the saddle valve :-)

The same knuckle head that installed the saddle valve hooked up my new dishwasher and garbage disposal with no high loop (nor air gap.) Why do I as a soccer mom know more about this than he?!? He also wanted to use flex pipe for kitchen sink drain -- but I told him I didn't think that met code. Needless to say, I'm not letting him in my door again.

If my dishwasher doesn't drain I'll look to make sure he punched the circle-thing out of the new garbage disposal. ;)

Lol, flex sink drain. Comical and sad at the same time. Anyhow, if your dishwasher drain connects to the sink drain via a 'Y' before the trap you should be good.

"He also wanted to use flex pipe for kitchen sink drain -- but I told him I didn't think that met code."

Inquiring minds want to hear how you knew this guy but didn't know the heater was there all along.

I'm not sure I understand your question klem1, but I'll throw out some answers anyway. I didn't know the extra water heater was there until we removed the stove/range to install new flooring and replace the appliance. The short water heater was behind a panel in a corner cabinet that had zero access. "this guy" is the maintenance/handyman the HOA manager recommended. I knew a little about it by googling things like "how to hook up a new garbage disposal" at 3AM while worrying it would get done wrong (given the lack of a high loop, my concern was justified.) I'm still not sure it's quite right, but I'm literally afraid to ask. Next up is the bathroom remodel and I'll consult a plumber at that point.