75 gallon heater...yet we still run out of hot water
msa62001
15 years ago
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chris8796
15 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (15)Thanks for the info on the BER. First year container gardening so this is a whole new experience for me. I made my mix myself, Peat Moss (1/2 bag), garden lime (3 handfuls), perlite (1 bag), composted cow manure (1/2 bag) and 10-10-10 (12oz cup) and 2 cups coffee grounds mixed up well in wheelbarrow. Buckets/Containers 5 gallon with 1 1/2" to 2" rocks in the bottom and holes in the bottom of the buckets for excess to drain....See MoreHot water running out
Comments (17)Hi lcottrell, I did notice earlier that you had tested the elements and had replaced both the elements and the thermostat. But you need to really verify, at least, that there is voltage to the elements when there should be and ideally that there is current flowing through the element circuit. A successful current test would rule out a lot of electrical issues. An ohm test on the element only tells you that the element is good-- it doesn't tell you if it is getting power. Unless I am forgetting something, there is either an electrical problem, a mechanical problem with the thermostat, or you are using all of the hot water in the tank (which would include a low setting on the thermostat or diminished tank capacity due to lime buildup). If you had serious lime buildup you would have known it when you pulled the bottom element. Less likely but still possible is a tank that has been connected to water supply incorrectly (the cold is connected to the "H" outlet on the top of the tank) or the dip tube is damaged or missing causing cold water to mix with the hot in the tank. Of those two, the improperly connected plumbing doesn't fit your symptoms, but the damaged dip tube does. Since the electrical is the most likely problem, you need to conclusively rule that out before you do anything else. I am sorry if it sounds like I am telling you to recheck something that you have done already-- but if you are stuck, then you need to perform some conclusive tests....See MoreValue of 96% HE 75gal water heater vs. 80% standard 75gal water heater
Comments (11)Those numbers are definitely gas. $2800 seems like a lot. Longevity is of course variable and paying more probably gets you greater longevity. I haven't looked in a while but Marathon sold ones that significantly outlasted average ones. The first question is what is your fuel? NG is cheap and Propane is not (well it is relatively cheap now but more variable). Next is - not sure where you heard that tankless is not good. I have my issues with tankless but they should be considered. I have one in a new rental townhome and the water takes a long time to get hot. That is an issue but doesn't have to be. Some of that is plumbing but some is the nature of tankless. But in general tankless is the goto for many. It is a lot cheaper than $2800 and gives you 96% typically. Third question is why not use electricity? Heat pump hot water heater makes sense in a lot of environments. But you need to have the room and sound isolation. Lastly, there is some value still for solar hot water if you are concerned about being a good steward for the environment. Best if you don't have room for heat pump hot water. It also will outlast a heat pump. We paid about $7k but got $5k in incentives so it was a minimal cost to us for a good 80 gal tank with install. When considering the options, I always think it is good to remember that gas can not be created in a renewable fashion but electricity can. Also many electric utilities offer rebates for highly efficient electric devices. Many would be surprised but there is a growing return to electric resistance type hot water heaters for this reason. Particularly POU devices that eliminate the wait (and waste) of distributing hot water. I am still trying to figure out Duke Energy's incentives but I think we may be going back to solar if the incentives are still there....See MoreTankless water heater - not enough water pressure to run it?
Comments (37)@Karen Williams This is the control panel on my tankless water heater. Water Set Point ... the output temperature the unit feeds into the hot faucets ... can be set in 1°F increments between 50°F and 140°F. Temp Up and Temp Down buttons adjust the Water Set Point temperature. Then press Temp Set to make it the normal at-all-times temperature if desired ... otherwise the adjustment is temporary and will revert back after a number of minutes. I have 103°F as the "normal" temperature and raise it when needed for washing dishes or clothes, without pressing Temp Set, and it reverts back to 103°F after 30 minutes so I don't have to remember to do that. That's just how my unit works, they're not all the same. Setting the temperature "at the faucet" means I set the water heater to the temperature of heated water I want/need "at the faucet" ... such as 103°F for a shower, instead of 120°F or 135°F which is much hotter than needed for a shower ... and I turn on only the hot faucet (or set a single-lever faucet to full-hot with no cold mixed-in). Thus, the tankless unit has a high-enough flow rate passing through it for the duration of the shower to insure it doesn't shut off due to too-low flow. 120°F, 135°F, 140°F output temperature requires mixing in cold water and turning down the hot flow at the faucet to get a comfortable shower, which reduces the flow through tankless possibly below the required rate which can cause it to shut off completely and the shower goes cold. Remote control panel means exactly that ... some tankless water heaters can have an optional extra temperature control panel installed at a convenient location such as bathroom or kitchen so the homeowner doesn't have to go down to a basement or out to a garage or wherever the heater is located to adjust the temperature. My heater doesn't have a remote control but it's located in a broom closet in my laundry room behind the kitchen near the center of the house so is easy to access any time I want to change the setting....See Morefrodo_2009
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