A filter is always a good thing if you have one. That said, I don't use any filtration on my 1000 gallon pond. Like you, I pump the water from the pond up into an upper pool that feeds back down into the pond. I have lily on the bottom, some oxygenating plants that I rubber band to a rock and throw in (these are important to compete with algae. I use Hornwort that I get from a fish store for cheap), and some various floating plants and marginals. I have a koi, a bluegill, and several rosey reds in there that have all done well, overwintered and are thriving. The key is balance. I can get by without filtration because my fish load is small and I concentrate mostly on plants and water movement. I rarely, if ever, feed my fish and, because of that, I'm not introducing excess nutrients that could foul the water or lead to crazy algae blooms. Some people really want that interaction with fish so they will want to feed regularly. Nothing wrong with that. Each person has certain things that they want to get out of their pond. It's all about finding what works best for your goals and situation. My advice would be to make sure there is some shade in the pond to prevent the water from getting too hot this summer, get your plants in there first and then a couple goldfish and give the pond a month to go through the nitrogen cycle and get balanced, then slowly add some more goldfish and see how your system does. Most importantly, have fun!

I am glad I saw this thread..That is my next method.. I am rooting some in a sunny window as we speak but it's winter and boy does it take longer for the process without lights and a warm room. I too was wondering how much Spagnum Moss and how much water ratio with the added ingredients? Mike, thanks abunch.I was enlightened! Mike

I'm thinking the annuals selection at your local garden centers or big box stores (our Wal-mart had some good looking things for at least half the price of the garden centers) would be pretty much the same for those of us in Indiana, Minnesota and Illinois since we're not too far away in the hardiness zones. If you're fond of daisy-like flowers, Osteospermum or Cape Daisey comes in more pastel shades of purple, pink, white, yellow. The Gerbera Daisies are bigger and bolder colored. Calibrachoa is a nice trailing plant, like a tiny petunia, and if you pinch it back a little it'll stay fuller. Petunias come in a good range of colors and would be a good container choice, and pinks (dianthus) come in shades of red, red fringed in white, white fringed in red, salmon. For foliage - as noted above, dusty miller is a real good choice since it's a silvery gray color it just goes with everything. Ivies, sweet potato vine, coleus, there's just so much variety to choose from. And if you need a tall accent, there's a plant we always just called "spike". Have fun - if you see color combinations you like, go with it. Pretty hard to go wrong.

Hi Jim - a step-by-step guide would have to assume that (1) there is only 1 right way to grow tomatoes in a container, the (2) all the readers growing conditions were the same, the (3) all varieties would have the exact same needs, the (4) well you get the idea that it just isn't feasible. As already mentioned each year's weather is different, each growing zone has different weather each year, different pests affect different parts of the country (ie: never see a white fly here but So Cal has them in droves while we have droves of blister beetles), and many other variables. So the solution I think is to focus on learning info that is specifically applicable to your location and gardening situation. That way you won't get overwhelmed as much. Begin by recognizing that your balcony isn't ideal for gardening so will require some extra attention, that container growing has some unique needs (size, growing medium, watering/feeding plans, etc.), that planting/growing season in your locale is unique and very different from other parts of the country, that not just any tomato varieties will work best in So. Cal or in containers, that common pests to your area will require planning ahead and stocking up on controls for them because they WILL come. So make notes of their arrival dates and plan ahead for next year. Your local country extension office can inform you on chronic pests and diseases in your area. Both UCLA and UCSD have extensive online extension services so check them out. The local Master Gardener program is a info source to be tapped as are any local gardeners. Go to the farmer's market and talk to local growers about varieties and pest controls and such. The Container Gardening and Balcony Gardening forums here can be of great help on soil mixes, container sizes, feeding, light needs, plant support, etc. So I guess what I am saying is to first ID the unique character of your gardening location and situation and get a handle on it so that ANYthing you want will grow there. And then plug the info unique to tomatoes into it. Make sense? Hope it helps. Dave