It was baby steps for me. I started gardening and wanted to garden organically, which at first to me just meant not using chemicals. As I read and researched more, I realized it was a lot more than that - soil amendment and care, companion planting, etc. From there I started composting. I've always been a big recycler, and took it a step further when I started composting, by which I mean I took things that my city recycling program wouldn't recyle, and composted them. I shred every bit of used paper for the compost, and I compost all paper towels. (My program takes newspaper, and they recently started taking mail, so I now give all glossy mail and all catalogs/magazines to the recyling bin). I also rip up all paperboard - cereal boxes, macaroni boxes, toilet paper tubes, etc. This all goes into my compost pile or lasagna beds. I use recycled paper products and recycled and/or biodegradable garbage bags. I've started using a lot of organic foods lately. Last year I started working a few hours on an organic farm, and I also find in general that more local markets are carrying organic foods, as well as organic cleaning supplies and health & beauty products, etc., so while it's quite expensive, I get what I can afford organically. I'm trying to avoid GM foods, but that is difficult. I also conserve water by using buckets in the sinks and shower, using rain barrels outside, and flushing only when necessary, as well as not using as much water to begin with. As I continue to read, I find I've become quite the eco-nut, lol. I freecycle everything I can, I buy used - if I buy at all. I'm becoming my grandmother lol - you know the type. You buy grandma a beautiful cahsmere sweater to replace the old one she's worn since you were born, and she puts it away because the old one is "perfectly good", lol! I only eat free-range, organic, local meat, I use re-usable bags, I write e-mails to companies admonishing them to use #1 or #2 plastic in their packaging so it can be recycled. I subscribe to a couple of organic publications/e-letters, and I read a lot more on sustainable living than I ever did. So it's definitely something that has built up over time. Speaking of significant others and other people who pick up habits, it's so true. My husband was hesitant to start composting due to critters, etc., and now he loves the fact that we put out one bag of garbage a week. He is also the house chef, so he is the one that always fills the compost bucket next to the sink. He asked me to get him some reusuable bags recently (big shock since he was a big plastic bag guy) and he's still in the "trying-to-remember-to-bring-them-in-the-store stage, lol. And when he comes home with groceries, I notice that he has more and more organic items in the bags. So it does rub off. Which reinforces my feeling that everything that one person does has an effect. Kind of encouraging. Sorry to go on so long. I can talk about this stuff forever, lol. Told you I was becoming an eco-nut! :) Dee

"They have the responsibility to provide consumers step by step instructions on where the water line is, how to shut it off and how to change the water filter from the time the refrigerator is installed. The manual provided is unclear so I called their customer support and still got no clear explanation other than to call (and pay for) a plumber to shut off the water line." Anyone living in a house should know where the water shut offs are ... that's one of the first things you should be finding/shown when you move in or are old enough to be home alone, along with gas shut off (if applicable) and the breaker box ... What do you do in case of a leak? I mean, if that water line broke, you'd need to go turn the water off; you wouldn't be looking for instructions from the refrigerator manufacturer then (that would be a plumber or the fire department) ... same difference without the emergency.

Thanks for the responses, Jasmar, Cascade and PoolGuyNJ. I completely agree with you about the benefits to local service and support of the local economy. I think the problem is the two pool companies I have had contact with may just be terrible. First company was the one the realtor got to come inspect pool before closing. They also gave us a heart-attack inducing ($45K) estimate to completely refurbish the pool to like new condition. When I contacted them back with questions about the estimates, never could get a response. Unfortunately, we had to call in on our home/pool warranty Friday (when the pool was opened, one skimmer and one pump will not start), and guess who the warranty assigned to work on the pool?! Inspection company! Blech. So, since we were not impressed with them after we bought the house, we solicited suggestions from friends who were pool owners and got company #2. Had them come, look at the equipment/setup to give us a reno estimate, and hired them for opening and closing. It's been four months and have not gotten the full reno estimate (got a verbal ballpark of $25K at walkthru), but got those prices for the necessaries above after two more followups. The opening and closing process has been a PITA, as the company seems very poor at communication. First came to close without an appt and did not use all the chemicals left by the seller which we asked for them to use up first and wanted to charge an extra $250 for chems I had sitting in my garage! They did waive the chem charges since it was their miscommunication, which was nice and stand-up of them. Second, when they came back to open, took three weeks to get an appt, they changed their policies from working on Saturdays, so we had to take a work day off to meet them, then the nice man they sent did not speak English and couldn't communicate what needs to be done with the pool. He could only say things did not work, but that was it. He indicated missing plug/part in the skimmer, but I don't know how that could be since his company closed it and put all parts in the bag which sat in the deck box since January. Also, starting up the hot tub only one of the pumps would work and it causes water to come up through the holes in the deck and spew all over the concrete. These little plumbed holes seem like they should be for air to go down into the spa to aerate the water, but we are having water back out of them. Again, he had no idea but could only shrug and say 'not work.' They also charge $75/hr for vacuuming but we thought it was such a swamp lets have the pros tackle it first then we can maintain it throughout the season. They sent a kid with a Leaf Eater who only started 4 days ago. I thought I was inexperienced with only four months with a pool but even I beat four days!! He worked on it with Leaf Eater for about an hour and a half then packed up and left. He brought a vacuum hose but didn't use it. We still have a ton of leaves and silt in the pool. Now what? How was that getting it cleaned to be opened up? No followup instructions were given. They also want to sell me those parts I mentioned in the first post but gave me no recs on installers/electricians - I'm on my own after they sell me the parts. That's not a great endorsement for 'buy local because they are more helpful and supportive.' When I called the day after the opening and said I wasn't sure what the opener was trying to tell me to do the next day, maybe five bags shock? or maybe he was coming back to do 5 bags shock?, they said they couldn't get him on the phone and said 'is it cloudy? yeah, probably five bags shock.' I have to think there is more to it than over-the-phone diagnosis. So our $500 package for opening and closing was less than satisfactory. This co charges $220/mo plus chemicals for weekly service in OKC. That was too rich for our blood, maybe there are other services that are more in line with what you say Jasmar. Will keep looking. (FYI, we were not thinking to fill in the pool, but maybe the separate hot tub. It was Pool Co #2 who suggested filling it with dirt and making a planter, so if there are regulations about it, they were not too concerned with them.) I know there are good local pool co's out there but I am having a difficult time finding them, even using friend's/realtor's referrals. Just so disheartened! I ended up taking a water sample to Leslie's yesterday and was pleasantly surprised by their knowledgeable and helpful staff. They offered to show me how to use the test kit, explained what all the chem levels mean, and even helped talk me through backwashing and how to run the filter. They said the tests show no chlorine in the pool, so all the organic debris is eating it up faster than I can add it, so keep cleaning the pool and add more shock and some other stuff (floc/enhancer I think) in about four hours. Told me to keep a list of all the chems that seller left for us, and every time my H20 is tested they can help me find out what I need to buy and what I already have. so far best experience with a pool co! (and I know there are not a lot of leslie's fans here, but that has just been my experience). When the pool co #1 comes next week to fix warranty problems, I will see if I can find out about plumbing for cleaners. I was back there looking at the sand filter pressure and noticed a big thing that said 'Polaris' with an on/off switch plumbed in on one of the PVC lines. Will take a photo and post if they cannot tell me what's what. Here is a link that might be useful: Miracle of Chlorine!

There are several options for iron removal. Each has pros and cons - hopefully this will help you make a decision: Softener: You have expressed no desire for a softener, but, just in case you want the info anyway - A softener with specialty resin is capable of removing dissolved iron, up to 7 ppm (mg/L) but asking a softener to remove iron at those upper limits is really pushing it so I do not recommend this method. In addition, a softener will become fouled with particulate iron. A softener will not remove sulfur compounds. Additionally, extra steps need to be taken monthly to ensure the iron is adequately stripped from softener resin - This is the poorest choice for iron treatment. Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. This will also remove most sulfur compounds. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. Most will remove sulfur compounds as well as iron. These are relatively easy to operate and what I recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used: Manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (a) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sq ft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sq ft. Birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. Pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it - this means you have to rely entirely on the vendor for proper sizing. Backwash daily. Filox: Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15 gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily. Pro-OX: Essentially the same as the previous three. Requires 12-15 gpm/sqft backwash. As with Terminox, specs are lacking information so you'll have no way of knowing if the unit you get is sized appropriately. Katalox-light: Similar in action to the previous four, but is comprised of zeolite, manganese dioxide and hydrated lime. It should be designed for 6 - 12 gpm/sqft service flow atnd 8 - 10 gpm/sqft backwash. For well water, it's a good option as it requires lower backwash. In all cases, media ought to be replace somewhere between 5 - 10 years. If any vendor tells you their media lasts forever, walk away - they aren't trustworthy.