Veggie season?
slowjane CA/ Sunset 21
9 years ago
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socks
9 years agoHumsi
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Shallow Veggies for a Lasagna Bed
Comments (6)I have to disagree with Dave. The cardboard will start to decompose fairly quickly or at the very least it will soften and allow plant roots to penetrate it (depends on how many layers you used). Once the roots are through the cardboard they've got the unlimited depth of the native soil beneath it. You should be able to plant just about anything now except things that are out of season and root crops (root crops sprout and send a taproot down immediately; the cardboard won't be decomposed/softened enough when that happens). Last year I made a new garden bed by laying a single layer of cardboard down on an area of grass, covered it with about 6 inches of municipal compost, and planted corn. It grew okay. Could have been better but I didn't fertilize it. This year I did the same and planted artichokes and cardoons the same day I made the bed, which was about 2 and a half weeks ago. They are doing great. Rodney...See Moreany reason not to use tomato cages or okra?
Comments (4)I'm growing snap peas on LAST YEAR'S (IE, DEAD) okra skeletons, and so far so good. They're 2 feet high and blooming. I have the peas kinda "holding hands" around the okra skeletons for support, and it's working so far... they would be better with a few bamboo poles stuck in there so they could climb easier. When the peas are done, I plan to cut the whole thing down and use as mulch on whatever I plant there next (a cantaloupe that grows in Oklahoma is current plan). I'm agreeing with MacMex's guess on the competitiveness of live okra as a support. Okra roots spread out at least 2 feet in every direction (plus a tap root over 18 inches long), and they get every last bit of moisture and nutrients in their reach. greentongue... Arkansas Ozarks...See MoreHave you started ordering seeds?
Comments (6)Gayle, I haven't had a lot of time to look through the seed catalogs yet.....too much holiday stuff going on.....but I have ordered a couple of tomato varieties from Burpee to add to my extensive collection of tomato seeds. (You can never have too many!) I do like Marianna's Peace quite a lot but it seems to taste better when grown in hotter, drier years. I don't grow snow peas here, mostly because we usually warm up really early here in southern Oklahoma and the weather seems to go from 'too hot' to 'too cold' overnight. I tend to prefer the spiney okra here because our large deer population LOVES okra, and the spines are my only hope for getting any okra for the humans at all. (All I want for Christmas is an 8' tall garden fence to replace my 4' tall fence!) However, Clemson Spineless is our favorite spineless okra. It is an oldie but a goodie. Baker Creek (www.rareseeds.com) offers a variety of heirloom okras also. The ONLY way I know to keep bermuda out of the asparagus bed is to absolutely remove ALL the bermuda, every single tiny shred of stolon, before planting and then remain hyper-vigilant forever after! Heavy, heavy mulching helps as does digging out any and every bit of bermuda grass as soon as it appears in the bed. Keeping a very heavily mulched pathway about 2' wide on all sides of the asparagus also helps.....the farther away you can keep the bermuda grass from the bed, the better! You have to keep the bermuda grass out of the aspagus bed because once the bermuda invades the bed, there is not much you can do except hand-dig it out of the bed, and that often damages the asparagus crowns and root system. Also, be sure to keep nearby bermuda from going to seed and sending those seeds into the asparagus bed to sprout. It was a combination of too cool, too rainy, too cloudy, etc. for many crops last year, and mostly likely, that was true of your squash and eggplants. Mine didn't perform well until late July to early August, and only then because the rains stopped here at that point and it did get hot and dry (finally!) in our part of the state. I'm hoping for hotter, drier weather this year so the veggie garden will thrive and produce like crazy. After Christmas, I hope to do some serious planning for the spring veggie garden. Dawn...See MoreHelp decide what to plant to give us veggies all season
Comments (5)? ? ? ? ? I did not see any plant on the chart that bears 'all season' and don't see how I implied it in my post. The one that bears the longest on the entire chart is squash and it only bears for 3 months in her area according to the chart. What the chart does help with is figuring out what to plant and when so you can have a variety of things in your garden at all times. Even the chart isn't the answer to everything under the sun. As an example, my local ag. office says we can plant bush beans here from May 1 - Aug 15 in 2 week succession plantings with harvesting June 21 - Oct 15 (and even plant as early as April 1 using row covers). But if you look at the zone 7 chart (my area), it only shows planting May 15 - July 15 and harvesting July 1 - September 1. BUT, the chart is certainly better than nothing and I think the chart is a good start to figuring out what & when. Especially for a beginner like me who had no idea that broccoli should not be grown in the heat of July in my area. I am growing for immediate consumption, not for storing, so I also did not want gallons of bags of beans (or squash or tomatoes or whatever) ready at one time. I wanted a little bit of a bunch of different things ready each week. I did not want to have beans for dinner *every* night !! One thing I had to figure out was what was the recommended number of plants for 2 people to be able to consume the harvest. Also what plants are a once and done plant and what plants would be able to be harvested over a long period from one plant. For example, squash are harvested for a long period from one plant, but bush beans are for approx 2 weeks. Carrots, obviously, once you pull the carrot out, that plant is done ... no more producing carrots from that plant, LOL. So ... 1 or 2 squash plants might be enough for 2 people for the whole time squash produces. But 20-80 carrot plants (depending on how much you like carrots) split up into succession planting of 4-10 carrots every week from Feb 1 - Mar 1 would give you 4-10 carrots ready every week once they start producing, rather than 20-80 carrots all ready at one time. I also think 40sf is a good size. Our garden is 36sf (11 feet of that is trellised) and I have open squares that I am not using right now. But as soon as I am able to plant fall crops, I will have room to start them early without pulling a summer plant. Then as the summer plants are done I can start pulling them and planting more fall crops in those newly emptied squares to extend the harvest. The one thing I would like is a little more trellis for my summer plants (or I need to cut back on my tomatoes some!!). I would like to have some honeydew on the trellis and more cantaloupe, and maybe have moved my watermelon to the trellis(?). As it is now, my trellis is divided as follows ... each square is 1 plant per square except the cucumber ... 6 squares tomato (2 each of 3 kinds), 2 squares cantaloupe, 2 squares squash, 1 square cucumber (2 plants in 1 square). However, in the fall, the only thing I have planned that will be trellised is peas. I doubt I need 11 squares of peas !!! That being said, this is my first ever garden and I am very excited about it so far. I have read a lot on the internet, but I am not an expert ... I haven't even eaten my first veggie yet !!...See Morefresnogardengal
9 years agoNil13 usda:10a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.)
9 years agoCathyCA SoCal
9 years agoslowjane CA/ Sunset 21
9 years agoWild Haired Mavens
9 years agoslowjane CA/ Sunset 21
9 years agoWild Haired Mavens
9 years agosocalminifarm
9 years agoBarbara Adams
9 years agonanelle_gw (usda 9/Sunset 14)
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoWild Haired Mavens
9 years agoslowjane CA/ Sunset 21
9 years agoslowjane CA/ Sunset 21
9 years agoWild Haired Mavens
9 years agoWild Haired Mavens
9 years ago
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pennypond USDA 10 Sunset 21 CA