Here is a little more information that might help clarify the purpose of the diode across the PTO coil (paraphrased from a Wikipedia article): The functional name given to the diode is a 'snubber'. Snubbers are frequently used in electrical systems with an inductive load (PTO coil) where the sudden interruption of current flow often leads to a sharp rise in voltage across the device creating the interruption (the PTO switch). This sharp rise in voltage is a transient and can damage and lead to failure of the controlling device (PTO switch). When the current flowing is DC, a simple rectifier diode is often employed as a snubber. The snubber diode is wired in parallel with an inductive load (such as the PTO coil). The diode is installed so that it does not conduct under normal conditions. When current to the inductive load (PTO coil) is rapidly interrupted (by the PTO switch), a large voltage spike would be produced in the reverse direction (as the inductor (PTO coil) attempts to keep current flowing in the circuit). This spike is known as an "inductive kick". Placing the snubber diode in inverse parallel with the inductive load (PTO coil) allows the current from the inductor to flow through the diode rather than through the switching element (PTO switch), dissipating the energy stored in the inductive load over the series resistance of the inductor (PTO coil) and the (usually much smaller) resistance of the diode. So, this inductive kick does not feed back into ground or into any other part of the engine such as the starter (as mownie correctly mentioned). The potentially damaging energy is dissipated in the series resistance of the diode and the PTO coil.

One more thing, there is a "neutral drain" sequence that engages after the agitate cycle. After agitation, the motor reverses direction and pumps the standing water out of the tub. Then the motor stops for 5 seconds and then restarts in the same direction. This disengages the neutral drain and engages the spin. Be sure to let the drain cycle complete prior to checking the spin. There is a kind gentleman on the web named Angel Acevedo who has prepared a series of excellent videos that will help you find and repair the failure in the spin/agitate cycles. I am going to be tied up for the rest of the day with my family and won't be on the computer, however, if you view these videos they will give you a good idea of the way to diagnose where the problem lies. The clutch is the first suspect, and if not that, it is the gearbox, assuming the motor is turning, which it should be now that you have fixed the cap. To check the clutch, I suggest this video. It shows how to replace the clutch if it proves bad. If the clutch is good, or you see no drive going to the clutch, then the problem is in the transmission itself. There is a repair procedure to fix a rather common failure mode in this transmission, but it involves having to tap and drill out a (presumably) busted stud. The kit is cheap, but you have to open the case, not a whole lot of fun unless you want to learn how the gearbox works. It is really not too complicated, but it IS messy. The good news is you can get refurb transmissions, complete and guaranteed, on ebay for under a hundred bucks. There's a used one for 35 bucks. But I would suspect the clutch first, check that, before moving on to the gearbox.

okay - well here's an update. last night I had taken the timer assembly completely out. That's when I had noticed, and mentioned, the rattle in the timer motor, etc. This morning I was going to test the unit per above, so I put the timer assembly back in. When I plugged the unit back in - I tried starting it just for the heck of it. It's starting and running seemingly just fine now. What the...??? I supposed this could be the end of this thread now that I'm back up and running and I'm thrilled it's working again. But what the heck would have caused that??? In summary - I had replaced ONLY the failed thermal fuse - did not even open up the console back or tinker with ANYTHING else - and the unit was still dead. This forum and the people on it are awesome. Thank you all. Brad

A proper Ground Potential is Imperitive for all Electricial Components. As Bluemower advised all Safety Switchs (Interlocks) must be verified functional . As for the Starter yes when you hear nothing , normally you have a dead battery or starter . A clicking sound more likely relay or bad connection . The worst thing for a starter is to crank it for more than 30 seconds continuously (over heating) The second worst thing is to let it sit idle for 24+ months (brushs tend to stick). To answer your question yes you could try a test , directly spin test the unit on your work bench with a 12 volt power source . You can then better determine the bearing conditions without any load or interlock issues. If the starter was turning over a multimeter (Dynamic) ampere test would indicate if it was faulty due to excessive amp draw (load) due to windings breaking down or perhaps bad internal bearings. Static testing in place most likely would only confirm a Dead Short Scenerio ! P.S. Having additional external elect grounds never hurts , I do this commonly on numerous recreational vehicles , were excessive vibration can cause less than optimium ground potential and Electricial Gremlins !