I assume that you 'clicked' the breaker all the way off, and back on. And there is power at the outlet? You need to put a volt meter across the terminals of the motor, if no current, then work your way back to the next connection, etc.

Yes power at the outlet. I can try to test the motor... so basically leave the dryer plugged in, and test voltage across the terminal with the multimeter...

But any thoughts on the description for troubleshooting the motor - it would typically hum or buzz when attempting to start? how likely would it be the motor if it's not making any noise at all? I'm sure anything's possible just don't know how much merit to put into that statement...

This model does not have a belt-break switch per the parts diagram.

The thermal fuse on the heating element box (assuming the wiring design is typical) does not prevent the machine from running. The thermal fuse on the blower exhaust housing would stop it from running but you say you've already replaced it.

Could also be a bad timer if not a breaker/power supply issue.

ah - the timer. Is that something I can test for continuity as well?

I find it crazy that the original thermal fuse on the blower exhaust was faulty, but did not fix the problem. Does this mean there are (at least) two components that would fail at the same time?? Seems odd.

My Whirlpool dryer has a wiring schematic - I think it's on the back of the dryer.

Usually motors just don't 'go bad' - but check the motor first (since you say you've done the others)

Otherwsie you will have to start where the power comes in - and test every switch (power in / power out) in order.

Schematic (but poor)

My Whirlpool dryer (vintage 1992) has a relay that the timer activates to supply 220 V to the heating element. I am pretty sure the motor is 115 V. so it should not need the relay, but I could be wrong. If you have checked the timer and the start switch, I would check the relay. If it has a lead going to the motor it could be a problem. If it only goes to the heating element through the operating thermostat and the safety thermostat I would think the motor itself is to blame. That could be the starting condenser (electrolytic capacitor) which is mounted on the motor. If that fails the motor will hum trying to start.

Thank you all - I will try to weed through this. Remember I'm not an expert so will take a little time. Also remember I have no hum when I press the start switch.

Make sure you have continuity through the door switch when the door is closed, not just when you push the button in. It may have moved out of position.

There is no relay on this model and the motor doesn't involve a capacitor.

Should be a wiring diagram somewhere on/in the unit. Possibly a tech sheet in the console.

Here is a PDF of your wiring diagram: https://servicematters.com/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203401728.pdf

I would be surprised if it were the motor. As dadoes said it could be the timer, since that's the one part of the circuit you haven't tested yet. Another possibility would be one of the things you tested is failing under a different condition than it was in when tested.

Yes - I found the wiring diagram in the console. Thank you for posting this one!

I've done additional/re-testing on most parts - all seem to be working. Did not test motor yet.

From reading I've done seems I've both that the timer can be tested and that it cannot be tested - so not sure what to believe there. I've followed some instructions for testing continuity, which is seems to pass, but not sure if that means anything.

I have taken the timer assembly off and I've noticed the timer motor is rattling quite a bit when I shake it. Some suggest this is indicative of failure but not sure. Also not sure if the timer motor failure would cause the whole unit to be dead as a door nail upon attempting to start?

The timer motor I think is the only thing that can die. It should buzz/rattle as it operates. If you turn the timer to a position, it should let the dryer run but the dial won't advance.

Does yours have a light inside and does it come on when you open the door?

there is a centrifugal switch in the motor that switches between 'start' and 'run' when the motor spins fast enough. If this were to fail (in the run position), I don't think the motor would necessarily run, but it should 'buzz'.

You should be able to see 'continuity' between the press-to-start switch White and the timer Black. It won't be 0 ohms, but it should be low. Open would be bad. If you check it, check UNPLUGGED.

A bad timer motor won't make the entire machine dead. The timer will be stalled, not advance through the cycle but the contacts for the operational circuits to drum motor, heating element, etc. will still function.

Trace the electric path from the power cord through the timer to the motor per the wiring diagram to confirm with a meter that the timer is outputting current. The heating element goes through the motor's centrifugal start switch, it doesn't receive power until the motor is up to full speed and the start winding drops out.

Thanks. "Trace the path from the power cord through the timer to the motor..." Is there a guide as to how exactly you do this? I'm assuming this means when the machine is plugged in and I'm testing power through the circuit one item at a time? Do you have more detailed instruction on how I do this exactly?

Grass: "Is there a guide as to how exactly you do this?"

Yes, it's the wiring schematic.

So... the heating elements are 240 volts, but the rest of the dryer is 120 volts - one 'leg' of the 240. The body of the dryer is grounded. Attach one of your volt meter probes to ground / neutral. Use the other probe to test for 120 volts.

Looking at the schematic you should start at terminal D of the door switch. It should have 120 volts when the door is closed. Then go to the 'push to start' switch - which goes to the drive motor 5M - that should have 120 volts.

okay - well here's an update. last night I had taken the timer assembly completely out. That's when I had noticed, and mentioned, the rattle in the timer motor, etc. This morning I was going to test the unit per above, so I put the timer assembly back in. When I plugged the unit back in - I tried starting it just for the heck of it. It's starting and running seemingly just fine now. What the...???

I supposed this could be the end of this thread now that I'm back up and running and I'm thrilled it's working again. But what the heck would have caused that??? In summary - I had replaced ONLY the failed thermal fuse - did not even open up the console back or tinker with ANYTHING else - and the unit was still dead.

This forum and the people on it are awesome. Thank you all.

Brad