Thanks all for posting. I have stalled out on the remodel but will be back in action this next week when my carpenter can start. I have a new carpenter coming to appraise the progress of the job and start next week. Long story, but this new carpenter is actually the one I wanted originally but not unavailable so went with someone else (who didn't work out). Here is a plan view as asked for, and an elevation. The two walls that create the corner where the W/D sit are both load bearing walls. The blue square in upper left corner is the Miele W/D stack. The gray square to the right of W/D is the cabinetry and where I plan to access the shut off valve and dryer venting. These utilities will be in the back wall accessible through the shelving inside the cabinet: This elevation shows cabinets to the right of the W/D and will have the shut off valve inside the cabinet, reachable through the shelving. This elevation rendition is not current. Instead, I plan to have doors above counter height, and have the below counter area open, without a door: Shut off Valve: I have a manual shut off valve with the drain hole (all in one box) mounted by the plumber. This will be easily accessible from the side of the set, inside the cabinet. Hoses: I have the Floodchek hoses on site and ready for installation. Overflow Pan: I was thinking of a overflow pan such as this one I have linked below. It has a 5 gal capacity and has a 24x24 outside dimension. Anti-Vibration: I still have not made a platform for the set but was thinking of 2 plywood 3/4" sheets with a sandwiched mass loaded vinyl sheet in between as recommended by Mongoct on the bathroom forum. Otherwise the anti-vibration feet that Deke mentions might work and a lot less trouble. I have see some anti-vibration feet on the Grainger web site for heavy machinery. I might try those. Here is a link: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/K-16/N-/No-0/Ntt-anti+vibration+pads?Ndr=textsearchesinbase%2Btrue&sst=subset Dryer Venting: I have been planning to bring it out the right side of the set, and accessible in the back of the cabinet, for cleaning ease. I may not be able to place it in the wall as the studs are in the way of the joist space for the ducting. If I can have the carpenter frame out the stud wall for a dryer vent I will. I want ridged venting, and have it accessible to the side of the dryer (not behind the dryer). If this can't be done within the wall space, I will have to put a hole in the floor in front of the wall for the venting, concealing it behind the cabinet. though this will make it vulnerable to bumping with the laundry basket that I plan to keep in the lower area below the counter. My machines are at the warehouse waiting. Any comments or recommendations are welcome! Thanks again :) Here is a link that might be useful: slide-n-fold pan

All the volume of air that the hood vents outside must enter the house from somewhere. In older homes, some of it will come from poor sealing around doors and windows. The rest will be pulled into the house from other openings, and these openings are usually the vents on gas-fired (and oil-fired) equipment (furnace, water heater, clothes dryer,etc). If enough MUA is needed, it can actually reverse the flow of the flue gas leaving the appliance and essentially bring the fumes into the house ("backdrafting"). Obviously, this is a very dangerous situation due to CO concerns. In newer highly-sealed homes this is an even greater problem. Every house and vent setup is different so it has to be handled on an individual basis. One way is to run the vent with all windows and doors closed and check the airflow at all gas appliance vents to ensure there is no backdrafting. Any MUA system will bring in outside air, which will be cold in winter and hot in summer. In some cases, a heat exchanger could be used to save energy costs. There is no easy or cheap answer if you find you need MUA. You can't count on always remembering to open a window when you run the vent. It really needs to be a foolproof system such as an automatic vent to let in MUA as needed. Steve

I have a master bedroom closet area along a wall that is bisected by the chimney chase of a fireplace on the floor below, making a his and hers pair of closets. This is a triple-wall metal chimney surrounded by firecode sheetrock on the inside, studs, insulation, and sheetrock on the outside, including an access panel. It eats up about 30 inches of closet length. For a 10-inch kitchen hood duct with significantly less fire and access restrictions, you would probably loose at most only 20 inches. Many things are possible if the house design is recursively adjusted to accommodate all of the requirements. Do not rush the construction until you are certain that you have met your needs; there will be enough surprises even after everything seems to be defined. If you go to equivalent rectangular duct, you may still need to bulge the wall or otherwise ensure that there is not too much duct restriction. Rectangular ducts of equal sectional area to round ducts have a bit more pressure loss per foot. This should not be your first consideration, however, because you can find a blower with a fan curve suitable for the duct design, even if the duct path is tortuous. As for all of your construction questions, I'll have to ponder them when I have time, if I can understand them. In any case, if cooking is an important part of your life, then ensure that the kitchen design and the ventilation design are given the attention and space that they deserve. Unfortunately, it seems that your framing plan is somewhat past the point of easy revision. For others reading this: Please, please, PLEASE look into and solve all of the kitchen issues before finalizing a design and signing a contract. Comments on your bullet questions: - ?run horizontal through floor joists? YES - ?use rectangular duct vent when necessary? YES - ?Is it allowed to run near/along side the gas dryer vent? Not aware of any restriction on the moist air vent (note dryer vent has to be metal also. However, care to allow access for both, and particularly for the dryer vent duct for cleaning, is important.) For gas effluent vent, that should be determined by consultation with the architect, code officer, or gas company tech. Note: given a gas dryer, we are now in the regime of not letting the differential air pressure at the dryer fall below 0.03 inches, w.c., and make-up air performance or sealing off the gas dryer from the kitchen air is another big part of the kitchen ventilation design. - Run down into the basement if it can't run up? YES, but less optimal than up - Exit through an exterior wall rather than roof? YES - Best to get it in the garage and up into the attic and then up out the roof? Don't know about best yet, but it is a valid option. - best to have the range on wall A or wall B (does it make a difference)? TBD. Kitchen layout should account for numerous factors, of which duct location is only one. - assume need to use remote or in-line blower with any plan given its non-traditional route? In most cases, an external blower with an in-line silencer will be the lowest noise solution. kas

We’ve demoed our bathroom and plan on putting the washer dryer in the space shown in the picture. Its a 40” deep x 90” wide space. The washer/dryer we’re getting are 33” deep and 27” wide. Our initial plan was finding flipper closet doors. But hafele seems to be the only seller. And its like $1500 per hinge not including $1000 per custom door. Then do a floor to ceiling 30” closet on the left. Washer in the middle. Dryer on the right. So then we thought about getting a three stacked closet door that ran 90”. 30” doors each. But then we would be sacrificing the use of one of the 30” spaces at all times. The closet space on the left would constantly be blocked by the doors if we did laundry. But then we saw cabinet doors that had flipper hinges. And figured thats the best solution for us. We’d get a basic 40” deep x 90” wide countertop and mount it an 1” above the washer dryer. And just look for 30” cabinet doors and 3 sets of hinges. And maybe install upper wall cabinets for additional storage.