How to hang a medicine cabinet on a wall w/o a stud
jerzeegirl
9 years ago
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sloyder
9 years agokats737
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Show me your pics of kitchens w/o islands...
Comments (14)Buehl-- we're hoping that the spare bedroom upstairs will end up becoming the new playroom, and some stuff will be in their rooms. We'll end up with a small toy chest in the living room and the rest upstairs. So the whole "new space" thats created when we take down the wall will just be kitchen and dining room. After seeing Raenjapan's kitchen I may be swayed back to keeping the kithen to the left side and moving the bench for the banquette along the 94" wall and putting a penninsula between the other two windows. Lyvia-- the two 24" bases you see in the current kitchen are actually an island with a strange overhang. I wouldn't be able to put a fridge there. (I know the drawing is a little confusing, it was drawn mostly to show the layout of the first floor.) I also think I won't really have room for two separate seating areas in the kitchen, even if one is really small. Once I start drawing things in, and factoring in wide enough walkways it gets crowded fast. nini & florantha-- seems like G-shaped kitchens are more popular than I thought!!! That is what I origianlly was thinking for the kitchen (towards the left of the empty floorplan above). I love hearing that you have this same thing and it works for you. Also, we currently have Austrailan Cypress flooring in about 75% of the downstairs and plan to push it right through the new kitchena nd dining space as well. Its really beautiful (here is the internet pic.) LRy-- I think the pendants are from Ikea. if not, they are almost identical. If you go to their website ikea-usa.com I think under other departments they list lighting, and its 3 or 4 pages in. $29.99!! I saw them last weekend in person and fell in love. They are really sharp looking. Mnerg-- there are LOTS of possibilities with this blank space. TOO many! LOL! I am having a terrible time making up my mind. I keep worrying I won't ever get it right! I have also considered a small movable table for the center of the kitchen. I guess if I end up with a large center space I can always buy something like that to hang out in the middle when I need it to. Thanks everyone for all the help!!...See MoreWhat do you use to hang things w/o nails?
Comments (4)I have used the command adhesive hooks for a number of years all over the house, and never had them strip off paint, let alone drywall. One thing that is important is how you remove the adhesive. You need to pull straight down and essentially 'stretch' it off the wall. You don't pull up on it as if you were removing a piece of tape. Sticky-tac or fun-tack as mentioned is an alternative for very light things. The other way to plan things out before committing to a nail or hook there is to cut out the shapes of the items (and label them so you don't get confused - LOL) from newspaper or brown paper bags. Use those pieces taped up on the wall with blue painter's tape to plan out placement before you hang the actual items. Then once you have your plan, you can nail or screw the hangers right through the paper. If you choose to use the command hooks, of course you will have to mark with a pencil and then remove the template....See MoreHow to make door of between-studs cabinet 'disappear' into wall?
Comments (3)Your plywood idea was basically to cover the wall with something the same thickness as the doors, make cutouts for the doors, and then when it's closed everything's flush? I like it... of course, I'm imagining it painted, but I'm sure you could make it look good stained, too, I'm just not a wood-tones kind of girl. With it flush-surface like that, the big vinyl decal would go beautifully over the whole thing - I've put them up before (in fact, there are some in my bathroom!) and it would be super-easy to just cover the wall, then use an x-acto to slit around the door. I think it could look great!...See MoreWork table w/o obstructed front access?
Comments (11)For a table top of 24" wide and 12' long go about it like this: Cut 24" wide strips of plywood; two @ 8' and the other two @ 4' long. Buy some 2x4 studs, preferably 12' long. If using 8', get some straight studs, and dry. You don't have to overdo the straight part; the torsion box will straighten them out. How ever you do it, attach the straightest 4' stud to one outside edge surface of the 8' length of plywood, using clamps and glue to pull the plywood close to the 2x4 before screwing it fast. I only use McFeeleys screws. Place screws about 8" apart. Now lay down the 4' plywood and join the two pieces of ply with an 8' length of stud. On the next row, and I would use 4 rows, alternate the 8' and 4' pieces so you don't have the ends of the studs at the same place. Do all 4 rows, screwed and glued to the 12' length of plywood. Now fill in the width of the plywood with blocks, screwed and glued between the long studs about every foot of length from end to end. You are now ready to install the top sheet of plywood. Cover all the stud surfaces with glue and lay the 8' length of plywood over the section with the 4' plywood beneath it. Screw as before, every 8". Be sure to clamp the edges as much as possible. A cheap screw that is threaded the entire length will NOT pull two pieces of wood together withouat a clamp. McFeeley screws are unthreaded at the top for that purpose. Allow to dry overnight and put into use. I would make the side supports the same way, but with 8" spacing on the upright studs. You can apply formica over the top of the plywood later on. I hope you will let us know how the project went....See MoreUser
9 years agojerzeegirl
9 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
9 years agojerzeegirl
9 years agoianace
9 years ago
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