Captan and Imidan are compatible.

They can be mixed together and sprayed at the same time.

You heard right...Immunox (Myclobutanil) has high efficacy for Cedar Apple Rust in just about all studies, my own experience with it, while acceptable, is not all that great. It's a tough disease it seems.

Immunox can be mixed with the other products, but you probably wouldn't really want to do that, at least not as a matter of routine. Myclo is limited to 3 sprays per season (resistance issues) and while not comparatively expensive, it's also not cheap. Captan is very comparibly cheap, but not so cheap you want to waste it either. Better to spray the myclo combination when CAR is an issue, otherwise stick with the Captan - Imidan mix.

My suggestion (everyone has their own) would be exactly as you have read with the Captan - Imidan mix, only I'd also suggest adding micronized sulfur. Captan has little efficacy against powdery mildew and sulfur is super deadly to it. Many charts will even show Captan/Sulfur combo sprays as it is quite common to combine them.
Sulfur is by far the cheapest and probably safest fungicide you can spray ($2-$3 lb.),
You can also spray copper early to prevent CAR manifestation.

Appleseed, I don't use Captan but I have seen many charts stating to not overlap Captan with sulphur. One is below. On the other hand I also have seen University guidance on how great they are together. Maybe the combo is toxic on some kinds of fruit trees but not others?

Scott

Here is a link that might be useful: UKY - look at captan restrictions here

I use Myclo with Captan a lot as is the Cornell rec to delay resistance issues with Myclo and because Cap spreads to new growth during light rain.

3 sprays of myclo will absolutely control CAR in my experience at scores of sites with hundreds of varieties over the last 20 years. Often I have relied entirely on myclo for scab and CAR control.

Many sites I only use a petal fall and first cover fungicide spray and have never seen bad CAR damage on fruit- at most a few specks on foliage that is harmless.

But, of course, timing is everything and I can only speak for conditions in the 2 states (NY and CT) and 2-3 zones where I've managed orchards. I also have a more powerful sprayer than most home growers so it's easy for me to get good coverage.

Here's my sched, if you are interested.

REPRINT PERMISSION FROM ALAN HAIGH REQUIRED
________________________________________
Low Spray Schedule for Home Orchards in the Northeast

Here's my spray schedule for the scores of orchards I manage around SE NY adapted for home owners managing a few fruit trees. It has functioned well for me for over 2 decades, although J. Beetles and brown rot of stone fruit increases the number of sprays and necessary pesticides some years some sites. Stink bugs are also an increasing problem requiring more subsequent sprays when they appear. Time of spray is based on apple bloom as that is the predominant fruit here but I generally get away with spraying all trees at the time I spray apples.

Please note that pesticide labels must be read before their use and my recommendations do not override the rules on the label. The label is the law. This document only communicates what has worked for me and your results may vary depending on local pest pressure, which may require a different spray schedule.

Spray needs to be applied thoroughly throughout the trees and with a back pack or any human powered sprayer this is more easily accomplished in the morning before breezes usually pick up.

Dormant oil (this is optional if there were no mites or scale issues the previous season, which is usually the case in home orchards). Do oil spray from when emerging green shoots are 1/2" to just before the flower clusters begin to show a lot of pink. Mix Immunox (myclobutinol) at highest legal rate (listed on label for controlling scab and cedar apple rust on apple trees) with 1 to 2% oil( 1 to 2 quarts per 25 gallons of water). If it's closer to pink use 1%. Never spray oil on open or almost open flowers.

Don't spray again until petal fall when petals have mostly gone from latest flowering varieties and bees have lost interest. Then spray Triazide (Spectracide Once and Done) + Immunox mixed together at highest legal rates. Repeat once in 10 to 14 days.

Where I manage orchards, the space between earliest flowering Japanese plums and latest flowering apples is only 2 weeks or so which usually allows me to wait until the latest flowering trees are ready to begin spraying anything. Plum curculio seems to time its appearance conveniently to the rhythm of the last flowering apple varieties. This may not be true where you are.

If plums or peaches need oil they may need application before apples. I’ve only had mites on European plums here and never need oil for other stone fruit.

All this is based on plum curculio being your primary insect problem which is the case most areas east of the Mis. River. These sprays will also absolutely control scab, CAR and Mildew as well as most of the crop fatal insects. Apple fly maggot is an exception as it tends to emerge a couple of weeks after last spray looses effectiveness, but I haven't had much of a problem with this pest in the orchards I manage. This pest can be controlled with a lot of fake apples smeared with tangle trap.

If you don't want to use synthetic chemicals try 4 applications of Surround about a week apart starting at petal fall. You may need to start on earlier flowering varieties as soon as they drop petals because Surround is a repellent and can’t kill eggs after they’ve been inserted into the fruit. When temperatures permit it is good to mix horticultural oil with 2 or those applications as Surround makes a nice home for mites and scale.

Stone fruit may require the addition of an application or 2 of Indar (Monterey Fungus Fighter is closest available chemical for home growers) starting 4 weeks before first peaches ripen. Apricots must be sprayed sooner if they are scab susceptible with same compound. On some sites that single spray will also prevent serious rot on later ripening varieties on seasons not particularly wet. If it is wet spray the later varieties again two weeks later.

Because I manage so many orchards so far apart I have to resort to a spray schedule that is based on expectations rather than actual monitoring. You may be able to reduce insecticide sprays with monitoring but PC can enter an orchard overnight and if your insecticide lacks kick-back (as is the case with Triazide), do a lot of damage in a couple of days.

Other problems may occur later in the season and you will in time learn to monitor and react to the pitfalls.
Good luck, Alan Haigh- The Home Orchard and Nursery Co.

Human, thanks for your schedule.

As far as CAR I find It necessary or at least handy to wait until we get a rain that gets the galls sporulating or when one is forecasted to start spraying for it. One of those rains could not come until well after bloom is over and later. I have plenty of cedars very close by I monitor every Spring closely and now know what it takes to get those sliders popping. I prefer to get an immunox spray on just before the rain but that hasn't always worked due to high wind preceding thunderstorms. Those pesky galls can get a combo of temp and wetting period that makes them erupt only partially only to dry up and erupt more fully later when conditions are better for them. Boy do I hope for one hard, long, warm rain every Spring to get over and done with, that seldom happens.

"Appleseed, I don't use Captan but I have seen many charts stating to not overlap Captan with sulphur. One is below. On the other hand I also have seen University guidance on how great they are together. Maybe the combo is toxic on some kinds of fruit trees but not others?"

That's interesting Scott, I've never read of any issues with their combination and as I said there are lots of charts showing their combination when concerning apples which is the subject at hand.
Scott...I suspect (though I'm not sure of this) that recommendations not to overlap are due to sulfur's issues with certain fruits like Concord grapes and even 2 apple varieties that sulfur supposedly can, in some instances, have ill effects upon. In other words, perhaps the issue is not with the combination, but rather the addition of sulfur in and of itself.

I'll have to look into that since when I spray...I generally hit everything with the same spray. Thanks.

This post was edited by Appleseed70 on Tue, Jan 13, 15 at 2:05

OK...just went and checked out the case of Captan-Sulfur combo sprays. It seems my gut was correct. Sulfur should not be combined with Captan when spraying any plants that can be damaged by sulfur. They suggest Macintosh and Jonathan for apples. I don't have either of those varieties, but if you do...don't spray the sulfur.

Having said that, I'm very dubious of these claims as Concord grape is also supposedly damaged by sulfur, yet I drench mine with it and have never experienced any issue whatsoever. My grape vines are as pretty and healthy as any I've seen on this forum.
Furthermore, if one was to pay credence to all the possible injury scenarios...what then would you spray?
Here in my climate...if you don't spray...severe injury to total destruction is 100% guaranteed.
Here is a WSU link showing "possible" injury to plants from just about everything you can imagine.

The link:

http://www.tfrec.wsu.edu/pages/cpg/Leaf_Injury

Scott makes a good point though and I was remiss not to mention the potential injury to Jonathan and Macintosh.

If I did have those varieties though...I'd spray them with the combo without a second thought. I would not however recommend it since literature suggests otherwise.

It is not necessarily a matter of when there are spores only or my results would not be so consistent. I suspect the maturing of the leaves gradually makes them less susceptible or my schedule would not be so nearly bulletproof here.

Maybe leaf maturity makes a big difference, don't know. I just know for my area how the climate son spires with the galls to produce the spores that may infect my leaves. Happy I've never had to spray more than twice to get through CAR season. Come on early, warm, big, hard, long rain!!!