I have some Cover Blubbers, but I got mold on a couple of them and it didn't come off. The company replaced them, which is awesome (I was just informing them, when I told them, not expecting anything from it except maybe tips for cleaning the mold), but I'm really careful about what I use them for now. They're fantastic, even given the limitations. The harder kinds might be less prone to having mold stick. My answer of what I do is the same for only a slice removed, though that might not have been clear--and it might not work for you, or how you want to store things, but just to be clear: I use plastic wrap, and put it right up against the flesh, which means, pushing into the wedge area that has been cut out. If it needs help staying in place, I'll wrap another piece over it, but I always leave half the melon free, especially a cantaloupe, so the rind can breathe. Works for me. :)

I have never tried this, but was reading about it in some textbooks on propagation my DH brought home. They say you can use the smaller feeder roots or the larger ones, cutting them between 1"-3". Put them on a couple of inches of substrate and cover with and inch or two of medium. The cuttings can be laid horizontally or vertically. If placed vertically be sure to get the polarity correct so that it's how they grew naturally ie. bottom part of root facing downward. It's also suggested to cut the bottom at an angle for roses. Concerning the planting medium, it was not specified, but referred to as "planting" medium as opposed to "rooting" medium, which I take to mean a more nutrient rich mix. I've done this often with other easy rooting plants such as those in the mint family with great success. (Too great sometimes!) : ) Let us know if you try it and your results. Most of mine aren't large enough yet, or if they are they root easily and truthfully, I don't need anymore New Dawn. : ( However, I have to transplant a huge one in March, so maybe I'll try this out. I don't think she'd miss a few roots.

On the photo, to the right. If your plant has been in the same place for a long time, take your cutting(s) from the side that faces the window, also, take cuttings from the top of the plant (if it's large enough). Use a very sharp tool to take your cuttings - not a pair of scissors, and don't just break a piece off. Scissors, even sharp ones, crush stem tissue, which invites rot and failure. Your cutting should be long enough that it includes 3-4 nodes (where leaves are attached). Remove the leaves from the bottom 2 nodes by cutting through leaf petioles (stems) as close as possible to the leaf's attachment point w/o damaging the node. Stick the cutting (plant it) so 2 nodes are below the soil line and 1-2 nodes with leaf/leaves still attached are above the soil line. Place the pot in a bright spot but not in direct sun. Best place would be in open shade out of the wind. Keep the soil damp only. Soggy soils kill cuttings, and this is especially true if the bottom of the cutting is in a layer of saturated soil that often occupies the bottom of pots that contain a soil too water-retentive for good results. There is a distinct advantage when you root in a solid medium as opposed to rooting in water. I won't get into that unless there is some interest. Ivy can also be layered; but it comes so easily from cuttings (ivy has preformed root initials) that layering would be severe over-kill. Resist starting numerous cuttings in the same pot to ensure the planting looks "full". You can achieve the same results by sticking a single cutting and pinching regularly. Al

I have pothos that i will give you cuttings from. am in ontario, canada. i am looking for anything, mostly fast growing, non poisonous plants.