I would go for it Rick, I think your location is looking even more encouraging, since it is really a zone 7 and not too wet, I'm guessing. Here in NM, pomegranate does very well throughout the middle and lower Rio Grande Valley, with no protection, and no obvious dieback. Most of this area is in zones 7 and 8, but single digits are not that uncommon, especially where cold air settles in the lowest part of the valley. Some of these areas have reached record lows of -19F! I believe this was in the 1970's, but I would be surprised if there aren't at least some tender plants surviving from before that time. There are some very old pomegranate and fig trees in Albuquerque. I'm experimenting with some pomegranates here in my zone6/7 area and so far so good. I'll be able to say more when/if I get fruit. I started with hardwood cuttings which take very easily, so I think this is a plant that is very condusive to experimentation, since it is easily propagated, and grows well with a mimimum of care. Siting in a warm microclimate is definitely very helpful, as others have already mentioned. Good luck

I grew up in Holland, MI. Lake Michigan, which is about 90 miles wide at this point and shocks many visitors who find that it is fresh water and not a salty ocean, affects the weather a lot. Because of the lake, Holland gets much more snow than areas 30 miles inland. It also stays cooler longer in the spring making it a good area for fruit growers who need to avoid late frosts that ruin flowers and fruit set. It stays above freezing in the fall longer due to the lake's retained heat, also. Summer temps are usually 5 degrees or so cooler than my location about 30 miles inland. The zone maps have changed over the years and aren't always clear for EXACT locations, BUT they really only show what perennials will survive the winter lows they are based on. This does not affect most of the veggies grown in the area since they are grown as annuals. You will want to look at frost dates and length of growing season for good ideas on how most veggies will grown there. In my opinion, the lake and the snow make it a wonderful place to live. But about half the people I talk with are already complaining about the cold weather and the snow to come. I think they should live elsewhere if they dislike the weather that is a sure thing each and every winter.

I'm learning too, so take my (extremely spammy) advice with a grain of salt. I start seeds early so I can transplant them into my garden, so hopefully my advice will help. When using seeds from last year, depending on the type of plant, the amount of seed that may still be viable will vary from type to type. Some seeds last seemingly forever, while others need to be planted the same year they were collected. Do some research online to find out. Be careful with potting soil. Many brands can be too thick in texture and full of things like fertilizer, which can affect your seedlings' ability to grow. It's better to get seed starter soil, or soil that's lighter in texture. As for florescent lighting versus LED: not all light from bulbs will work for growing. It all depends on your setup, what you're growing, what sort of budget you have, and if you're growing indoors or just starting plants to place outdoors when spring arrives. The last one is important because the larger and more mature the plant, the more light you'll need. If you're just starting seeds indoors, most types of florescent lights should do the trick, though more experienced people here may have better ideas. Florescent lights are generally inexpensive and widely available, which is probably why that site recommended them. Since this'll be in a greenhouse, you'll have to consider things like moisture (ie, will the light fixture be okay being in a greenhouse year after year?), how you'll hang your lights, and how you'll space them around your seedlings. I grow in the basement, so I use a wire shelving unit and raise the seed beds to the light. If you can't hang your lights from the ceiling, you can possibly affix your lights to a frame (you can make your own with wood, pipes, repurposed shelves, buy kits, etc) and put them on small chains with s-hooks, so you can bring them up as the plants get higher. I plug my lights into a timer so that they're not on 24/7, which saves electricity.

The pear looks as though it was purposely put there. Even has a guard on it. Unless it is ID'd specifically as a callary pear, I would assume it to be a fruiting variety. They are very carefree as fruit trees go. And yes, plantain is no big deal. Even a nice medicinal plant. Herbally I usually use P. major but P. lanceolata works too. Garlic mustard self-sows like mad. That's one that should go before it drops seeds. FataMorgana