Interesting landscaping challenge - I would think you'd want to de-emphasize those very noticeable long steps to the right and somehow spotlight the actual main entrance. As I mentioned previously, maybe some low junipers or cotoneaster would sort of obscure the long steps while a pair of urns or something could flank the steps or walkway on the left. Or maybe the short sidewalk there could have a row of short boxwoods on both sides leading the eye more obviously to that side of the porch. I'm not sure what principles would govern the use (or not) of symmetry in this setting. As mentioned, it seems to me that symmetry around the main stairs would help to make them more prominent. Seen from the front, the porch section is also symmetrical and you could reflect that in the planting in that section, although you need a different strategy at each end to connect with the relevant stairway. Of course the mound has no equal over on the other side and needs to be handled as a one-of. So since the overall picture won't be symmetrical, maybe the overall shape of the front bed needn't be either, but (this being amateur to amateur) I've got no clue how it would be best shaped, or whether plantings away from the house would complement the whole. Trial and error will be a lot of fun here, I would think, and I would echo Saypoint's suggestion that cruising the nurseries and finding plants you like that will grow there is a necessary first step.

Lazygardens: Thanks for information, this is the sequence of what I am going to do -- when I wrote on the way I am going to kill my existing lawn I did not mean the steps in sequence, just overall steps :) Also, I am planning to cover the seed with about 1/8" of the top soil to get a better soil contact and protect it from birds. Am I making a mistake here ? Is there any DIY method to compact this top thin layer. I am doing a trial seeding of only about 400 sq feet and don't want to rent a roller just for that. Biglumber: I am actually torn between Ephraim and Sodar (streambank) for the new lawn -- Ephraim gets a lot of praise in 'Xeriscape Colorado' book (chapter 5, grass): http://books.google.com/books?id=m0QyikM-wAwC&pg=PP1&dq=xeriscape+colorado#v=onepage&q=&f=false I am leaning towards Streambank for following reasons: 1. Streambank is a native grass, Ephraim is introduced. 2. Streambank is strongly rhizomatous, Ephraim is weakly rhizomatous and only with sufficient water. 3. Based on what I've read Streambank seems to be more drought telorant, Ephraim needs more water but probably not by much. 4. Ephraim goes dormant much faster during hot dry spells. Ephraim pros: 1. Cheaper seeds (half the price of Streambank). 2. Easier to establish. 3. Lawn seems to be of better quality, AVSeeds recommended Ephraim over Streambank for lawn, but I am not sure about the qualifications of the person I spoke with. Can you post a picture of your Ephraim lawn, I (and I am sure many others) would love to see it :) Bpgreen: In one of your post I've read that you got a better results when seeding Streambank that you put in the freezer before planting, this is also backed up by some USDA document I came across when researching. I am assuming you were referring to fall seeding rather than dormant seeding, is this correct ? Thanks everybody for your help ! Davie.

Sherry, it's good to know that about Bluff oak. If they're slow growing, then there would be no reason to choose them over White oak. I still really recommend Swamp Chestnut oak though. At three years mine is 10ft tall. Pam, longleaf pines can have some aggressive roots because they like to grow deep into the soil. In nature they have a taproot 6-10ft long. Just make sure you're not buying too large a tree in too small of a container. Before you buy, slip the container off and look for any large circling roots. If you see circling roots, pass it up and look for a smaller one. I prefer the smaller ones in the grass stage myself because they have the advantage of being able to put more roots down before height growth. We're really only talking a year or so difference in time.

Although the photo is not complete enough for a good ID, looks more like a western red cedar than a Doug fir......and that can complicate your planting choices. Cedars tend to have much broader canopies than firs and a very widespreading root system with a heavy mat of fine feeder roots right under the surface that makes establishing any plantings of size very difficult. Even a lot of native plants are not inclined to grow directly under the canopy of large cedars - too little light, too little moisture. Vine maples will simply languish in such a situation - I wouldn't waste my time and money. You need to look for plants that will tolerate dry shade and for best results, plant small and have the patience to allow them to grow to size. And most plants happy under these restrictive circumstances tend not to grow very tall and won't be very effective for screening. You may get much better and faster screening if you utilize large planters, like 1/2 whiskey barrels. Then pretty much any shade loving shrub (with adequate irrigation) will work.