Ok, I listened to you guys and hired a landscape architect. The good news: He said the two oaks I was worried about would probably be just fine. Suggested I get an arborist out to give them some sort of treatment just in case. He liked my crude self drawn hardscape plan and had a couple of great suggestions. He said the retaining wall isn't such a big deal. He said to save money, I should use Belgard type of pavers and stop obsessing over wall height and live with a step down or two. He said NOT to do my own waterfall because I'll mess it up. And he gave me a nice planting plan using most of my existing shrubs. The bad news is that he said "Those two oaks over THERE need to be removed before you do anything. They're dying. Cost: $1900. They didn't look so dead to me, but he told me if they are dead on top, they are going to be dead all the way down. What a shame because they are big and beautiful. I may post another question just about dying oaks...

Some answers to your questions: Looking up at the bridge, there is a path going both left (sunny) and right (high shade). Given the range of light, and my tendency to collect plants, it will be a mixed planting. My back is fine. You can actually move quite large rocks yourself. I find that one or two rolls, and then rest - keeps strain down on the back. It takes patience and some tools. I would not be without my pry bar, and dolly. I actually don't add much water. The last couple of years have not been so dry. I don't really winterize. I try to remove fallen leaves. Before the first good frost, I take the pump inside. The lower pond is almost 3 ft deep so the gold fish should survive. Done - Winterized. I agree that some more large bolders in the garden would make it more natural looking. I am working on that. Most of the planting will end up being 1-2 ft tall, or more, so most bolders would be covered. Since the stones are mostly limestone, they stay wet and I should be able to get moss growing on them. I'll be spraying with yogurt next summer to encourage this.

No, it's not enough room unless your serviceman is a midget. It will also be likely to flood in a heavy rain. The motors don't like being submerged, even partially. The foam insulation will get wet and mold/mildew will form in places you can't get at. I don't like saying it but I have to. IMHO, sinking it into the ground, surrounded by concrete is not a good idea. There are a number of custom skinning products that can be used if you don't like the look of the side panels on the spa and want something that better matches the decor and color schemes you like for your backyard paradise. Happy Easter! Scott

Weep holes are seldom done in residential construction in my experience. I have never seen a code requiring them(could be though). While they are recommended in commercial construction, they are part of a drainage system of through wall flashing & often a mortar baffle that helps keep the weep holes clear of mortar. The flashing intercepts any water & directs it to the weeps. I would not add weep holes to a wall not designed for them. I doubt if they would work & would more likely cause trouble or damage. If their are no water issues at this point their most likely won't be.