Probably too late for this poster from almost a year ago, but in a similar situation, I just found current limiters that have been developed for J and H type track lighting (Juno / Halo and other compatibles). Search for "va rating integral current limiter". VA stands for Volt Amperage. The ones I found readily were Juno and Nora brands. So now you can limit the power that can be used (and that will count against you in the Title 24 calculations) and with new LED fixtures that use so few watts, you can easily have enough light even with much lower limit. (1A limiter would still give you 120W at 120V). Most LED pendants that I've seen are in the range of 3-7W each. It's still not considered "high-efficiency", (because someone could put incandescent or halogen fixtures on the track - although now limited) but can be balanced out by other high efficiency fixtures - either LED or fluorescent - that you are able to install elsewhere in the kitchen. Can't wait to tell the electrician... and can't believe I found this on my own despite all the lighting "experts" telling me it couldn't be done!

Calcium and magnesium in water precipitate and bind to hot surfaces. Therefore water heaters of all types (tank, tankless, teapots, coffee makers, dishwashers, etc.) are much more prone to the buildup of these minerals than your pipes or your hair. So, yes - your tankless is particularly susceptible to mineral buildup. (BTW: I have a tankless and very hard water also). A water softener will dramatically reduce the amount of buildup on the water heater (and hair, clothes, dishes, pipes, toilet bowl, etc.) and it works. And you can prove it's working with a test kit (no faith required). The definition of "soft" water is less than one grain of hardness per gallon. When calcium and magnesium mix with soap, they form a soap scum that's very difficult to remove from your hair, your clothes, your dishes, the shower, the sink, etc. The gunk on your drinking glasses in the dishwasher isn't just hard water, it's that mixture of hard water and soap. Magnetic water "conditioning" doesn't do what it claims, but even if it did, -- to your point - the stuff is still there. And it's still mixing with soap to coat things. The only thing that will REMOVE calcium and magnesium for general residential use is a water softener. (RO and distillation will, but that's generally for small amounts of drinking water).

Yo Ken, if your still around your up on this one. Far as Composites go I am with the Larry/whoever We are for the most part. Composites are really no longer using recycled material because there is just not enough of it so most of the raw stuff is virgin,the energy used to make composite is an enviro no no, when its time to remove the project composite is not real big on bio degrade its tricky to burn shreading it would be silly. Bottom line composites are not so enviro freindly. Info like that might suggest its not all that good to clean it either, with anything. I dont agree>> composites will out last Ipe, left to go silver/gray Ipe is as close to no maintance as a person can get. With the softer composites like Choice/MoistureShield even trex= tjunk I have found a coat or two of TWP 116 seals up the decking,locks in the color and keeps mold,mildew,stains from causing major problems. Of course not needing to do this is the reason the Wallet goes for composite in the first place. I my own self dont like composites at all for the reasons stated in several posts here and on other sites. Welcome aboard Larry!!! Sorry I dident understand your intent at the begining . John

Remember that you can use any hydronic technique like Warm Board for under floor radiant tubing method. You don‘t have to do in-slab if you don’t want to. Nordic air-to-water is another option if you don’t want to do geothermal. The advantage of any Nordic air source heat pump is that there is less equipment outside. That contributes to a longer life cycle and it is ‘local’ for you. I believe the federal government will contribute $5k for geothermal so that covers a lot of the drilling cost. You might also choose a geothermal triple function HP with forced air heating & cooling AND full capacity hot water for radiant heat and DHW production if your budget permits. You didn’t mention any details of your new home as to sizes or floors or your electrical rate. BTW: We have a Nordic geothermal heat pump (Montreal) for almost 20 years. Hasn’t failed yet and I don’t know anyone with a similar size house that heats for le$$! IMPO SR