Yes, I did, redshirt, but this is a VERY young tree, and all kinds of other, more common things can cause fruit to be misshapen. If it was HLB, you'd see very sorry looking leaves, especially on the branch where this fruit was produced. This little lemon tree looks nice and green :-) The thickness of the skin can be caused by other factors, as can be the odd shape. Thick rind is most often caused by too much nitrogen and/or too little phosphorus, which is actually caused by the over abundance of nitrogen, which can cause a lower uptake of phosphorus. I've included a nice fertilizing schedule & chart from Arizona, which is still very applicable for those of us in warmer areas of the Western US, including S. California. Even for me close to the coast. This is for in-ground citrus, and there will be some regional variability to the application timing, and the amount of nitrogen (more for hotter areas, less for cooler areas in general), as well as some adjustments for micronutrients that might be low in your particular area, but overall, I think this chart is very easy to understand. And, this doesn't look like Ponderosa lemon to me, tropical. They are really, really huge. And they have a rather unique obovoid (pear) shape and are pale yellow. Eurekas can have thick, lumpy rinds, too. As can many Italian lemons. My Eureka lemons have lumpy thicker skin. Lemons of all sorts can stay on the tree and actually keep well, not just the Ponderosa. I even leave my Meyer lemons on the tree longish, since my tree is so prolific, I just can't squeeze enough juice fast enough, even freezing it. Here's a link to one of the best citrus sites out there besides the UC Riverside Citrus Collection site: Citrus Pages Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: Fertilizing Citrus in Arizona

mrtoad ~~ Very difficult with a rain-bloom. Maybe next year you be able to catch it dry. The more pics the better. These two looked the closest of what I've seen: Magnolia (link below, Stevens'39) Real Challenger (daves garden pic) The following didn't seem to be as good a match: Alice Harding (standards & beards seems darker yellow than yours) Ecladore (hafts and beards seem darker yellow than yours) (name included for others searching for historic pale yellows) flavescens (standards seem to have more color and haft veins more pronounced than yours) Here is a link that might be useful: http://historiciris.blogspot.com/2008/04/tall-bearded-iris-magnolia.html

I have this exact problem now. The tree is in the chook yard. I moved in 18 years ago and there were two trees close together. After about ten years one died..didn't care had the other and the chooks like the shade in summer. I am in South Western Australia which has hot summers and mild winters. I have never watered the trees directly because we are only 8ft to water and expect the roots to be in very moist sand 6 ft down. Three weeks ago there were some serious storms come through and all my trees received a very good drink. 8 ft away is a massive orange tree that yields over 600 oranges a year and i'm a bit concerned it might end up the same way. My initial thought was that the buildup of nitrogen from the chook poop is doing it but cannot find out much about nitrogen overdose. It currently has about 100 plus lemons on the tree atm which are small and withered as are the leaves. The leaves are yellowing and curling like it's thirsty. I will remove all the fruit from the tree and find a citrus spray for disease's and spray it. I have never bothered to fertilize the lemon because of the fowl droppings..funny thing is that the ground is damp around the base, so watering seems like it is not required. Interestingly though, there is fruit that has fallen a week ago, that is ripe and plump with perfect skin under the tree.So this is just happening.......confused.

If it was a grocery store lemon it's most likely a eureka or lisbon. Next time make notes about the fruit itself because that was your only chance to ID it. Now you have to wait for it to fruit. If it were me, I wouldn't waste time trying to get it to fruit but use it as rootstock and graft to it. It's literally the difference between getting fruit in 3-5 years or 10-30 years, if ever. Being in zone 6 I'm not sure you would ever get the tree to fruiting size. That's what your waiting for, size not years.