I'm unclear about a few of the facts here. 1. In the beginning of your post, you say that the tree broke at the graft, but then later go on to describe the break relative to the location of various supports. Was it the actual graft that failed or did the scion or rootstock actually break in two somewhere. Pictures might really help here. I'd also like to see how/where the tree was supported. 2. You say that the tree is limp and leans. Is the entire tree shifting in the ground or is the wood of the main trunk bending? Here again a picture might provide a better feel for what's happening. The fact that the tree contains multiple cultivars won't cause it to lean, break, or become limp. Poor grafting technique might be to blame (depending on what the details/facts turn out to be).

There are multiple ways around this. As Ken said, if there are crabapples nearby, they will provide the pollen. I have a single Asian pear tree (Shinko). It is advertised as partially self fertile, and many people believe that the ubiquitous ornamental pears will pollenize Asian pears. There are several ornamental pears in my neighborhood, and my Shinko tree sets a lot of fruit, and they have to be thinned. Many fruit catalogs sell multi grafted fruit trees. That is, one tree that has 3 or 4 varieties grafted on as the main scaffold branches. Multi grafted Asian pears and apples are among them. Try Raintree and One Green World on line. If you can't find the apple variety you want as part of a multi graft, and you are not getting fruit set from nearby crabapples, you can graft a branch of another variety yourself. Same goes for the Asian pears. Another option is to plant two apple trees (or Asian pear trees) very close together. This is often described as planting two trees in one hole, but in reality they are a foot or two apart. You can see a description here: http://www.davewilson.com/homegrown/hiDensity_simple.html and here: http://www.davewilson.com/homegrown/BOCpix/4in1hole.html Alex

Need help: producing a MULTI-grafted tree ["fruit cocktail tree"] I want to produce a multi-cultivar Asian persimmon tree, carefully choosing to include only scion wood from Asian persimmon cultivars that are reportedly hardy to my USDA zone (6b). To start off, I'm purchasing a Diospyros kaki 'Saijo' cultivar which is rooted on a single D. virginiana understock trunk (3' - 5' tall). Ultimately, I'd like to incorporate an astringent (i.e. 'Saijo'), non-astringent (i.e.'Ichi kei jiro'), and pollination-variant nonastringent cultivar (i.e. 'Maru'). My question is this: how can you in-graft scion wood when in situations where there is only a single truck, as opposed to grafting a scion wood cutting into a multi-trunk tree (i.e. when it suckers and forms multiple trunks from the base). Am I supposed to follow a branch to the truck and in-graft the scion wood into a few such main branches? I which there were an online tutorial or good description on how to do this with Asian persimmon trees. After I've done this, I'd like to produce a multi-cultivar American persimmon tree ('Yates', 'Meader', 'Szukis', 'Rick', etc.) but how can this be done, since American persimmon trees drop their lower branches as they mature; I would think that I could prune the tree in-check so that no main branch (cultivar parent branch) ever dies out, being crowded out and replaced by higher main branches. Thank you, Steven However, I do not quite understand how to in-graft multiple

Thanks God for Beverly Hills eh? Some stuff on grafting onto wild tobacco: http://www.ozpolitic.com/gardening/grafting-tomatoes-wild-tobacco.html The advertisers may have more info, but I can't see them from this PC.