Hi REF what Misty said is true sadly, those types of Euphorbias only flower once a year usually in the cooler months. The ones we see on the shelves in Aussie Christmas time have been forced to pretend they were in the northern hemisphere. The flowers themselves are miniscule, the vibrant colouring is from the bracts which surround them (you've probably read all this already) and the bracts can maintain that colour for many months. Some of the new hybrids are nice, multi-toned and supposedly "mini" but I still think some of the old-fashioned garden variety are the show-stoppers, especially if they've had a bit of care in keeping them from getting leggy, they do seem to hold colour for a long time. Since they flower from the tips of existing - or new- growth, the idea is to try to stimulate more branches, by pruning and then by tip-pinching. It's probably a little late in the season (and hot) to do any radical pruning now, but keep it in mind for next year and read up on prunings. But you could still do a little mild pruning of your plant to stimulate branching before autumn and look forward to a surround of colour in the cooler months. As to your friend's plant, they are dead easy to propagate from cuttings, you might take some next visit (or beg some to send by post. Everyone beware handling as the white runny sap is quite toxic and esp harmful if you get it near your eyes. Also mucky to clean off and some folk get a rash just from handling it - best wear gloves. Take some cuttings about 6 -8 inches long, whether with a growing tip or not doesn't really matter. You can wrap the cut end in a bit of moist paper towel if you are travelling with it or its being posted. Otherwise, the cut end does better if "hardened off" for a couple of days (like frangipanni and geraniums) to avoid fungus and damping off. You can then proceed to strike cuttings and have a whole forest.

Hi Daniel When was I there as those cuttings you gave me for all the Melb Family well I kept a couple for myself and one has flowered recently I think it was March / May anyway late summer and autumn is supposed to be the best time , me well I take them anytime. I will start you some cuttings from mine next autumn if you like, let me know what you want. This pic is from your one near the car port its only about 60cms tall but still managed to flower already it is a darker colour than the one I have up top.,...Cheers..MM.

I have to confess to being an over-planter. It's just blind enthusiasm and impatience I suppose. Your subject says it all... so many trees! I've certainly had a couple of reality checks over the years. What you have to consider is that the mistakes can come at a price. A considerable one financially if you are needing to remove mature trees or constantly lop ones intruding on your neighbours. Or a turn-off to potential buyers if you want to sell and your market is not so green. That said, your choices did not seem so deadly to me... given the distances and your soil, I reckon you won't see anything absolutely taking over for well over 10 years. The frangi can be butchered and restarted from cuttings anywhere anytime it is unsuited to its spot. Personally I found the little corymbias quite manageable and a gem magnolia is hardly going to take over the world. (Your ultimate problem is actually going to be that poinciana :-) but we all know who to blame for that decision). Your under planting isn't going to be any easier for years, none of the trees will provide much shade. IYou would be better off looking at summer sun-stopping options for a few years while you get your understory plants going, even if in pots that you shift around. Shade sails might work, also large tubs of clumping bamboo that will grow quickly, even temporary arches of vines that can be sacrificed later when you have the shade you need. Bamboo, thatch products, trellises and a bit of ingenuity should give you a cooler feel for a while. Don't discount a couple of cheap water features and water plants, either - a few tubs of waterlilies or cannas plus gold-fish and a little solar pump can do quite a reasonable job on the cheap

I'm assuming you are talking about syringa vulgaris. Perhaps it isn't getting enough sun. They will do much better in a full sun situation. In fact, they require it. Lilacs also require cold winters to do well. Are you in a nice, frosty area? Lilacs begin to produce their flowering bits in autumn (although the actual buds don't emerge until spring). If you prune during winter, you actually remove the bud material. If you need to prune, do if after flowering - or when flowering would have occurred. I wouldn't give up - the perfume is worth any amount of TLC. Perhaps you could move it to a position where it would be in full sun for most of the day. Lilacs like a rich, alkaline soil so give the site a good dressing of lime and incorporate a lavish application of organic material. Lilacs like moist soil, but not wet feet. Your new spot should be well drained but keep up the water over the warmer months. Mulch to conserve moisture, keep the soil cool and cut down on competing weeds. Once the shrub is established, fertilise regularly. The heavy pruning you gave it last year and a move to another site could set back flowering for another year or two. But don't be completely disheartened. Keep remembering the promise of the beautiful perfume. If you don't live in a cold winter area, there are a number of lilac species which flower at various times of the year and some of these will take warmer conditions.