I checked out Lowes.com. There are a few sizes: 15 1/2", 20 1/2" and 25". The prices are $9.98, $19.98 and $29.98, respectively. (Coffeemom, I couldn't find one for $39.) Only the 25" says "Genuine used whiskey and wine barrel". But it got one really bad review. The reviewer wrote, "I couldn't even pick it up without it completely falling apart. I was told that if you put dirt in it, then it would stay together. How would I get it home to put dirt in it?" Here is a link to my Lowes.com search results. Carol in Jax Here is a link that might be useful: Lowes - oak barrel

You have an antique violin made ca 1894. The note below was copied from a web site Quote: Appendix: 1 Daniel Long Violin No. 14 of 1894 This violin is owned by Robert and Joyce (Lillie) McCullough of Brookville, Pennsylvania. The violin is in excellent playing condition and is in nice physical condition. It has been used by the owner for lessons and has been favorably commented upon by her instructor, who also owns a Long violin. This violin was viewed at the Jefferson County Historical Center in Brookville on Wednesday January 24, 2007 and was measured and photographed. Although the length and body dimensions are fairly standard, the violin has a heftier feel in the hand. The neck feels larger (diameter) in the hand and the strings seem to be farther apart at the nut. The instrument seemed to produced a darker creamy tone. There was no dimpling around the F holes as on some of Sol RoachâÂÂs violins and the belly and bottom boards seemed to have large rises on the contours through the middle of the instrument in relation to the edges. The builderâÂÂs tag was commercially printed: âÂÂThis violin is Hand Made by Daniel Long Brookville (?) Solid back rim, will not tare loose as two pieces will at the back, and the neck is grooved into the front and extends under the breast in the block Full lined No. 14 Made 1894â Dimensions: Total length: 23 and üâ Body length: 14â Upper bout: 6 and 15/16â Middle bout: 4 and 5/8â Lower bout: 8 and 9/16â F hole length: 2 and 15/16â F hole outside to outside: 3 and 15/16â Inside to inside: 3 and üâ The Jefferson County Historical Center also contains Long violin No. 4 made in 1892. They also have some of his tools and forms, which I was unable to view or photograph. Jefferson County Historical Center PO Box Unquote. The Jefferson County Histroical Center may be able provide you with more information.

Before you pay for a print as large as 16 x 20, make sure that the image file has enough pixels to produce a smooth image. Most point and shoot cameras are set to nominal pixel counts and can not make good photos beyond 8.4 x 11 inches. If the final picture is printed at 200 pixels per inch, then one square inch has 40,000 pixels. A 16 x 20 picture has 320 square inches and at 200 dots (pixels) per inch, it contains 12,800,000 pixels. In base 2, one meg is 1024 x 1024 or 1,048,576. A quantity of 12,800,000 becomes 12.2 megs in base 2. Therefore by this recconing, a 16 x 20 print needs a minimum of 12.2 mega -pixels. The file size is much larger than this because each pixel may use 24 bits to define its color and intensity. At 24 bits, the file size is approximately 307.2 Gigabits or 38.4 Gigabytes. This is an unweidly number. So, how does a large print get made with a reasonable file size? Its done by spreading the available pixels over the print and interpolating between points to create the pixels in between. Loss of fine detail results. From a distance the print looks ok but on close examination, image edges may be blurred and fringing can occur between sharp color changes, e.g., a saturated red leaf against a bright blue autumn sky. If you anticipate printing large photos, set your camera to take the image at its maximum pixel count. A camera with a full size sensor is recommended.

Hey, thanks semi and brianhs for your fast responses about CP's normal (inset) drawers! I'll give them a call and find out about whether they can do the standard dovetail drawers with their frameless line. I've been leaning towards frameless because of the footprint in my kitchen space, and everything I've heard about CP has been wonderful, so I'd like to not have to eliminate them as a choice. brianhs, thanks also for that mention of the drawer front beveled edges. I just visited a kitchen place today to look at Woodmode, and in talking with the KD there, I discovered that I had not thought one thought about how significant the drawer fronts were going to be in my kitchen where I am imagining lots of drawer bases! And yet, drawer fronts are not usually depicted on the cabinet makers Web sites as much as the doors. Thanks again! la_koala