It would help to know the orientation of the wall in order to recommend substitutes for the Photinia. Photinia fraseri grows too fast and gets too big to be a best choice for a spot where you don't really want to have to prune on a regular basis. I'd suggest you look at slower growing shrubs that have some architectural qualities to the structure, but won't overwhelm the spot. If water quality issues aren't a concern, a Leucadendron 'Safari Sunset', Leucadendron 'Blush' is more manageable size wise, or one of the similar reddish foliage cultivars could look good there. Isopogon formosus is another upright shrubby protea family member with very showy flowers in spring, as well as ornamental foliage. One of the Adenanthos such as A. sericia could also look good here, or some tree type Aloes such as A. marlothii or A. ferox, or A. speciosa. Alyogyne huegelii and Prostanthera ovalifolia would be other upright shrub choices with seasonal flowering. If you like the idea of foliage color, things like Astelia chathamica of one of the upright growing Phormiums such as P. 'Guardsman' might be good choices. Not all of these shrubs will do equally well in full sun or more shade, and some have issues with needing good quality irrigation water in southern California gardens. For my money, Photinia fraseri is just too commonly planted and somewhat boring to use as a feature shrub in a front yard garden, and I would never recommend it for such a setting, aside from the pruning issues. Some of the dwarfer growing Pittosporum tenuifolium cultivars such as as 'Marjorie Channon' or 'Silver Sheen' are quite popular for slower growing foundation shrubs here in coastal northern California, and have soft billowy foliage characteristics that lend themselves easily to being kept sheared but with a softer look.

Thanks for the posts, everyone. Bahia, it turns out that I have exactly the location you suggest: coastal influence, and even with the killer freeze (ice in my birdbaths), only a touch of damage hit my bananas, mango, and iochroma. I swear the grevilleas got brighter red, and none of the aussies were damages by mid-20s temps - much to my relief. I'm a big fan of Buena Creek, and was out there last week. They got hit pretty hard, as did their suppliers, and I suspect they'll restock in time for their Spring sale. They've got the best demo gardens around, including the awe-inspiring hillside full of proteas, grass trees, and a 15' pencil cactus - all of which survives on benign neglect. Another location with excellent botanical gardens is the Wild Animal Park, with a section devoted to Aussie natives - protea, leuco* and leuca*, banksias, stenocarpus and some amazing Silver trees (Leucodendron argentum). I swung by Anderson's La Costa yesterday, now that they've recovered from the powerful windstorm that destoyed their greenhouses - I've always admired and appreciated the vast selection they offer, and they've really got a sweet assortment of Aussies (Leuco*, Leuca*, net bush, silver tree, grevilleas). I've got a wide selection of grevilleas already (Gilt Dragon is my fav, and doesn't scratch), and a weakness for Leucospermum, which are curiously ignored by the hummingbirds. Leucadendron 'Jester' is eye-popping, and "more silver' put out yellow cones this spring. Every banksia died on me - maybe too much coastal influence - sigh. I've never seen Hakea, Kunzea, Dryandra or one of the various flame peas growing in this area, and I'm thinking of getting seeds to give it a try. Anyone have luck with that approach? ...diana

This is similar to a stick I posted on the plant exchange, but a little shorter (70 cm or 28 inches): The stick came with instructions: I have not grown Dahlia imperialis before. I assume a cutting like this is the quickest way to a blooming-size plant. I picked up three today (presumably it's quite alive...) at the UC-Berkeley Botanical Garden. For those unfamiliar with the plant, this is the tree Dahlia which grows to 20 feet (typically 8-12 feet). It's a late Fall/Winter bloomer, so it can be tricky in places that get much frost. Info on Dahlia imperialis: http://www.anniesannuals.com/signs/d - g/dahlia_imperials_BTD.htm http://www.smgrowers.com/products/plants/plantdisplay.asp?plant_id=493 Or I see you can buy a small one for $35 on Ebay... I am looking for rare and unusual (sub)tropicals, either for inside (probably fairly low light) or outside in a frost-free (but coastal/Bay Area California) spot. I already have access to a lot of people and places with interesting plants, so I'm pretty spoiled as far as my choices go. I posted a second cutting on the plant exchange. I have a third that I will keep and I'll start a post on the tropical section discussion to follow it's progress. I find this an intriguing way to start a new plant fast. I say that partly because it does not seem like a green, alive, flexible cutting, but more like a stiff brown stick. I do have other things I can root at this point: Deppea splendens, Agapetes serpens, Fuchsia boliviana Alba, Brugmansia sanguinea (blooming), Rhodochiton atrosanguineum, Dicentra scandens, Chlorophytum amaniense 'Fireflash', Philodendron 'Prince of Orange', Monstera deliciosa albo variegata, Homalocladium platycladum, Petunia exserta (seeds), Abutilon megapotamicum, Darmera peltata, Centaurea gymnocarpa, Isopogon formosus, Correa baeuerlenii, Iris confusa, Roldana (Senecio) petasitis, Correa baeuerlenii, Salvia wagneriana, etc...

Nope-he means what it says in the heading-Drumstick/Moringa. Not an Australian native as the Isopogon family are-but an almost fully edible tree from India. I suggest for any one who wants to know more that they do a google search-either for "drumstick tree" or Moringa. Altogether a very interesting tree to research. regards sandie