they're looking great. i grew Stupice one year and plants were setting fruit in 90 degree weather. it's a good early tomato. I'm trying to find an alliterative to it with slightly larger tomatoes. planning on any support for them? I put a cage directly in pots, then a make a few holes about 1 inch from the top of the containers and zip tie the cage to the pots.

It's the 10th of May and they are still forecasting frost for the 'burbs around here. Normally I have my tomatoes and peppers out by now, but it has just plain been too cold yet. They are outgrowing my light garden space; so they will have to go out soon, regardless.

Yea, the process of keeping conifers indoors under artificial conditions for extended periods is hard on the plant, so I would be really impressed on any success you have with the bare root plants you potted right before bringing indoors. If you get your rootstock now and pot them up for next year, your % success rate will go way up. If you want firma, you probably have to grow it yourself... I've only seen it offered a few times and it was expensive. I believe Firma has a lower seed germination rate, hence the price and reason offered frequently. Similar issue with sciadopitys. If you are having success with Picea, that's great news. I've always had the most trouble with those. Firs and white pines are easy... I've never grafted Cedrus, but hope to next year. I brought my understock in on 12/27 and started grafting on 1/25 (Picea/Pinus strobus), they were the first to bud swell/new growth, then between 2/4 and 2/10 I grafted all the Abies... So far 100% takes on Picea & Pinus strobus, all scions have pushed now growth (only did 5 Picea & a triple graft on 1 strobus). But the firs are SLOW... Abies koreana scions were the first to push, but concolor and Abies nordmanniana 'dobrichovice' are just breaking bud now, and abies amabilis is just about to pop, but all 3 grafts of 'Golden Spreader' still show no signs of pushing, not even bud swell. Still confident they will though, no signs of failure. After 2 weeks of the chamber being sealed I start by just opening the door every few days to check on things and water as needed, then after 4 weeks I keep the door cracked open, but with the humidity still running... I'm probably around 75% humidity after 3-4 weeks regardless of where they are in terms of pushing new growth. At that point, the grafts are certainly healed and so 99% humidity in not required and just causes more issues with fungus, mold, ect.. Make sure when you do start bringing them outside, do it slowly, a few hours at a time for a week or so, then move them to a nice shaded spot for the rest of the summer. Keep the grafting bands on until they fall off, or maybe by the end of the summer you can start taking them off.

dug from semi frozen soil.. they are DORMANT ... what you see is fall growth ... they are dormant ... your goal is to keep them dormant ... a warm garage.. might trigger growth ... and if they then refreeze.. they might fail ... the sooner the better on replanting ... but a few days shouldnt matter if they stay cold ... you could probably just throw a plastic grocery bag in a snow bank to hold them over ... i dont know how many you have ... dig a 6 inch hole ... a few feet in each direction ... and just shove them all together ... and move them in fall... or better.. when they go dormant in mid summer .... this is not the time of year.. to try for design nor individual placement ... asap would be better .. a few days delay is ok... IF YOU KEEP THEM DORMANT ... i dont know what kind of hyacinths ... large flowers... 4 to 6 inches deep... small types more shallow.. generally 3 times the bulb size ... ken