I do not believe that Aloe is native to Australia so it may not look natural in your enclosure. However, yes you can put an Aloe vera plant in with your Bearded Dragon. First you have to make sure the plant and the dirt is completly free of pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Either can kill your dragon. If you just buy one from a shop you can be reasonably sure it has one or the other kinds of chemicals on or in it. My dragon tends to eat any plant I put in it's enclosure or just sits on it, so I wish you luck.

Most of the new forms of Lomandra being used in landscaping etc. have come from Abulk as a result of persistant and careful selection. They actually employ folk to be vigilant in detecting any genetic variation in their seed grown plants. If anything interesting comes along it is immediately separated and if it shows promise it is grown on to see how it turns out. All of the Lomandras are looked at for potential and as a result they are selling variations of L. longifolia, L. filiformis, L. confertifolia and lots of Dianellas. It is obvious there is more out there. Victoria must have considerable genetic variation in Lomandra to surprise a few gardeners in the future.

Definately worth a try, pricklypear... . Lomandra is very versatile, and L. longifolia is native to the southern an eastern states of Aus.; South Aust. Tasmania, New South Wales and Queensland. My 'Australian Native Plants' guide indicates it will grow in almost any soil and aspect and is often used in road median strips. It's a grass whose flowers are said to be perfumed on warm days. I've not noticed that but I've got in in my garden along with a dwarf species. Certainly worth try in Texas, I reckon.

Generally speaking glyphosphate is only useful for killing monocotyledons, grasses in particular. It is not useful, via foliar spray, for woody weeds nor for many herbaceous braod leaf weeds, both dicotyledons. The mallows or Malva sp are a perfect example. Glyphosate concentrate is effective against woody weeds and broadleaf weeds if you apply it via the cut & paint method. For woods weeds the best herbicides are Garlon and Esteem/Brushoff or a combination of the two. Garlon will act quickly killing off all the foliage and the Esteem/Brushoff will kick in later and kill any re-growth. For broad leaf herbaceous weeds effective herbicides are Kamba, MCPA and Garlon. These do not generally effect grasses but test them first on any native grasses on your property. I have found out from experence that Garlon does indeed knock Microlaena stipoides quite severely. Garlon can be sprayed over Lomandra longifolia and Lomandra filiformis without ill-effect however Dianellas are sensitive to it. Do not over spray Lomandras with the other mentioned herbicides. If you have problems with weedy grasses among native herbaceous and woody plants then Fusilade is the herbicide of choice as it will kill the grass and leave your native plants alone. If parts of the weedy area are inaccessible on foot you may have to consider applying via a spray rig with which you will have greater reach. Once you reduce the weed biomass it may be then more practical to use more targeted methods like spraying herbicides with a knap sack, cut & paint or hand weeding. If you wish to use some of these other herbicides wou will no doubt need the NSW equivalent of our Agricultural Chemical Users Permit. Contact your state agricultural department for info. Even if you do not require a permit for any of them it would be advisable to do an approriate TAFE course so that you know how to use these chemicals correctly and are aware of their health and environmental dangers.